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Scalescenes models


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I've started to use some of the scalescenes range for the background of my Inglenook layout

 

I'm finding them really good , heres a couple of pictures :

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scratch built reataining walls using Dark Red Brick (TX23) and "Top Capping Cover Layers" from Low Relief Arches (RO18)

 

 

post-7465-126886363846_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Modified Low Relief Warehouse (ROO2b) Aged Brown Brick (free) and at the egde also modified the back of (ROO2a) Small Warehouse in Brown Brick

 

 

 

post-7465-126886410435_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

I did print these out on thin card rather than paper and doubled up all the other support card used meaning i had to put each piece inbetween 2 heavy books to flatten them , this isn't nessaary .

 

One point i will say is becarefull on what varnish you use to protect the paper/card as i found Humbrol Matt aerosol left a white frost on the paper .

 

My skills in the hobby i would rank as amature and i got the above results .

 

Shaun .

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Nice ones, Shaun!

 

And I hope you found it enjoyable to do, as well, like I do. (If you ignore the occasional stress when you're trying to glue on a large sheet and get it aligned and straight at the same time before it sets!)

 

By the way, are those brick courses under the girder of the bridge? What would hold them up?

 

Cheers, Tony

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

 

Have sorted under the girder and now looks believable ,

 

Question , what type of artists matt varnish are people using to protect their models ? , as i posted don't use Hunbrol Matt Varnish Spray as it leaves a very white frost on the paper ( well thats when using and epson inkjet printer )

 

I'm asking because i've done a few test pieces and as i don't have any artists varnish i've tried a few different methods .

 

I found the cheapest way was to use an old trick from scenic posts i've read on here , i bought a cheap "extra hold" hairsparay ( made by Insette ) for this hobby i find it to be like glue in a can , this gives a non shine finnish , it does seem to bring a deeper colour tone to the model but in my opinion makes it look better .

 

The other finnish i tried was to use very lightly dilluted PVA and just brush it on ( you want it lightly dilluted as too much water content will bubble the card ) , you gotta be carefull brushing it on as too heavy and the colour will run , ........ this gave the test piece a shine finnish but seems when dry a very hard wearing finnish , perhaps a good one if your layout is in a shed or garage .

 

For the hardest wearing finnish that dosn't "white" the model/test piece i found applying the hairspray first ( let it dry/cure) then the PVA followed by another "blast" of hairspray gave an eggshell very ridged type finnish ( still has the shine after the PVA ) ,

 

Please note these are only my test results , i strongly advise testing a "dud" bit before brushing or spraying your models ....

 

What do you use to protect them ?

 

Shaun .

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