Hornby Scot/Patriot chassis

[trustytrev]

Hello,

        I have a problematic Hornby Royal scot chassis which despite my best efforts just keeps getting worse when I try to repair it. I have come to the conclusion I would be better using Comet chassis frames. I want to use the Hornby motor, wheels, and motion if possible as I think they are quite good. Can anyone advise if a motor/gbox combination is suitable using the original motor and wheel set. Any ideas what the best gear ratio would be preferable for this type of class considering it's driving wheel size would be welcome. I was thinking a 38:1 two stage ratio would be about right.

trustytrev:)

       

     

[trustytrev]

Hello,

        I take it from the lack of replies no one has tried going this route with a set of Comet chassis frames using the Hornby running gear.

I have ordered a set of Comet chassis frames so will wait to see where that leads.

trustytrev.

[92220]

Sorry, I missed this thread until now.

 

I've replaced a Hornby Scot chassis with Comet frames. See here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65335-motive-power-for-camden-shed/?p=2544107

 

and subsequent pages.

 

Happy to answer any questions,

 

Iain

[trustytrev]

Hello Iain,

               I had seen your thread as I often have a look to see what you are up to on Camden. I am going to try just using a Comet frames pack and use as much of the Hornby running gear wheels and motor as I can.I am hoping to fit the motor the other way round as you suggested in order to make the balance and adhesion better by adding lead in the firebox if possible. I am hoping by relocating the dcc chip in the tender to have more room in the locomotive body for ballast than exists as produced originally.

I had tried repairing the Hornby chassis but  no sooner had I resolved one problem another would rear its head.I encountered non meshing of gears which I resolved only for the chassis to fall in two at the middle axle cutout. I glued it back together with superglue but found more bits failed due to mazak rot.I also found the gear mesh problem was caused by the journal of the intermediate gear spindle being worn/sloppy on one side. I suspect this could be the main reason so many Scots and Patriots have the gear meshing problem. It allows the gear to twist loosing mesh with the worm or the axle which looks like the location of the motor is the cause I suspect for many people.

trustytrev.

[trustytrev]

Hello,

        I have received my Comet Scot/Patriot frames from Wizard Models and they look really nice. They come without axle bearings but I intend to use some 3mm brass tube and reuse the Hornby wheels.

In order to use the intermediate Hornby gear I will need to make up some side plates to match the positioning of the original setup.I have made some measurements so will try fabricating a gearbox in plasticard first to see how it goes.

I have found the motor will fit in the boiler rather than the  firebox but the edges of the boiler bottom are too narrow for the motor to pass through vertically. It is 17.27mm across the flats.The space between the boiler edges and front

splasher edges is only 12mm. Shaving 3mm off either side would be required or a narrower motor. I am not sure it would be possible to shave that much off without it ruining the body.

 

trustytrev.

[trustytrev]

Hello,

        The holes for the axle bearings are less than 4mm which is the outer diameter of the brass tube i was intending to use. Fortunately Markits do some 3mm axle bearings so I am waiting a delivery.

I have found a Hornby motor that is only 12mm across the flats but it appears somewhat longer than the original as fitted. I am also waiting for that.

I am beginning to think trying to use the original running gear may not be very economical in the long run.But still

trustytrev:)

[trustytrev]

Hello,

          Anyone still interested?

trustytrev.

[Buhar]

Hello,

          Anyone still interested?

trustytrev.

 

Hello - yes!