Coming back to the hobby after long gap and needing to commit

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

...And the new Hornby diesel I bought likes a minimum radius of 438mm, so thanks for your advice of adding 10%, appreciated.

In addition to what David Broad very sensibly mentioned about gradients: radii of curves.

 

Ignore the RTR manufacturer's opinions on minimum radius. They have to design the models to run on second radius (= 438mm), because that's the average radius of the set track point (manufactured from tooling with design origins in the 1950s!) still to be found on the majority of OO layouts. But you are not necessarily so constrained, and in fact will not find a second radius point on sale in code 75.

 

The current superior models really don't 'like' second radius. It is very impressive how running reliability picks up as the minimum track radius increases. Near twenty years ago in your position of re-entering a hobby I had to cease in about 1970 (life got in the way, the usual story) I experimented at some length, and concluded that at the standard I can arrange the track, a 30" plain track radius, and the Peco medium radius point were the minima required to enable the models to perform any move the prototype could, with the stock I wished to use. (Among other things, to reverse dead slow 60 four wheel wagons through any point network.) You may wish to test such things for yourself, appropriate to your interests: especially as the workmanship standard of the track base and track laying will be yours, and not mine; and I am well aware that there are 'magicians' out there who can use significantly smaller radii very successfully. You might be one such!

 

Apologies, one forgets not everyone is not fluent in the lingo

 I thought I was! Probably a regional dialect thing. I've always known it as 'the fidgets'.

[Damo666]

Ignore the RTR manufacturer's opinions on minimum radius. They have to design the models to run on second radius (= 438mm), ......., and concluded that at the standard I can arrange the track, a 30" plain track radius.....

Very interesting, so you aim for a 760mm radius.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Actually I aim for as large as is practical in the space available, but set a hard minimum limit of 30"/760mm radius on the plain track of the running lines. Worth mentioning that this comes with advantages in appearance of the models too. Combined with the OO undergauge compromise, most vehicles can be coupled up at scale separation, the ride height of twin bogie traction can be reduced to scale because the wheeltops will not foul inside bodywork, and detail parts can be fitted adjacent swinging bogies either 'near enough' for good appearance, or correctly positioned.

[john new]

You also have to work out if there are any unexpected constraints and things you might have initially overlooked that you want to progress to later in the process.

 

The last big layout design I attempted several years ago was fine for fitting into the garage with curves (IIRC) at 24" radius on the scenically hidden sections and I got quite a lot of the baseboards built before the arrival of new babies put it on hold for a while. On returning I thought Spratt & Winkle couplings looked a good idea as I'd used them on a friend's layout in the interim. The points I'd got on visible bits were OK but the curves off-stage put the kibosh on the coupling upgrade scheme as the minimum radius they needed was bigger. For several other reasons that layout stayed on hold (and still is) but when I return to OO modelling I will initially stick with tension locks for simplicity to get something running but may well embed magnets for any later upgrade.

 

Reason for making the post though is that if you might want to go for something as an add on later, like my issue with considering the S&W couplings, or perhaps a magnetic system later, you have to plan the radius and magnet spots before you start or end up rebuilding.

[Joseph_Pestell]

As an architect, you are going to be more than averagely sensitive to how something looks. So unless you can find a seriously large room or shed to build your layout in, you should probably rule out, for the time being, any sort of continuous run layout in 4mm scale (00).

 

Given your interests, I would suggest you look up a layout called Wellington Road. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/36589-wellington-road-leeds-1975-79-period/ You could build something similar quite easily along one wall of your guest bedroom on wall brackets or a bookcase and build it in such a way that it can be incorporated easily into any future project when you have more space. It will allow you to try all aspects of the hobby within a short timescale and see what you enjoy most.

 

Agree with the suggestion that you use a baseboard kit such as Tim Horn's. Given the price of good timber, if you can find any, they are a really good option.

 

Finally, if you want track that looks good (Code 75), you are right that your 70s models are not going to run on it without serious modification and expense. So really better to start again.

 

And no reason why Golden Plover, suitably renamed and renumbered, should not appear on a steam special.

[yelrow]

Surely the whole idea of modelling of any sort is to start from scratch. That being the case, i think you should build your own baseboard.  There is a long thread on here from a guy. who was ripped off having paid upfront for a baseboard. Plywood cut to size from a local supplier, and a few lengths of 2x1, screwed together, really, should not be beyond most people, and if you are battening to the walls for example, you build, as you go along. Far more satisfaction, this way, than some guy delivering it ready made. Not only that, layouts more often than not, become extended, and provision, can be built in for that event. It really, is not more than a mornings work to produce. If you need legs, then, these days you can buy, metal sawhorses, which adjust to many heights, and 2 of these would suffice. Also, provide support, if you are attaching to a wall. It really aint rocket science. john

[rob D2]

Surely the whole idea of modelling of any sort is to start from scratch. That being the case, i think you should build your own baseboard.  There is a long thread on here from a guy. who was ripped off having paid upfront for a baseboard. Plywood cut to size from a local supplier, and a few lengths of 2x1, screwed together, really, should not be beyond most people, and if you are battening to the walls for example, you build, as you go along. Far more satisfaction, this way, than some guy delivering it ready made. Not only that, layouts more often than not, become extended, and provision, can be built in for that event. It really, is not more than a mornings work to produce. If you need legs, then, these days you can buy, metal sawhorses, which adjust to many heights, and 2 of these would suffice. Also, provide support, if you are attaching to a wall. It really aint rocket science. john

 

Disagree. If your not confident in woodwork , it'll turn out badly and your foundations will be poor. Also not everyone is interested in woodwork, so don't waste your precious time if you are not. The companies I mentioned above are all bona fide.