Peco Point Motor, Switches and LEDs for control panel (help!)

[DaleT]

Hi 

 

I am sure this has been asked many times, but I can't seem to find what I'm after..

 

I only have 1 point for my DC starter layout and I wanted to wire in LEDs for a small control panel.. A control panel is not crucial but I just wanted to try it..

 

I have the Peco PL13 mirco switch.. I have noticed that I can't wire the frog AND the LEDs - just one or the other.. 

 

Should I have got the Peco PL-15 ? or is there a way to get directional LEDs with the PL-13 and have a live frog?

 

Thanks for any info - I've been stressing out all afternoon!

[Pete the Elaner]

I'm afraid the easiest way to do it is with 2 switches or a twin

Don't worry, there are alternatives to Peco's own switch.

If you extend the pin a little, a microswitch like this one can be easily mounted to a small block of wood.

[DaleT]

Thanks for the quick reply..

 

I think I'll give it a miss then, I have already got the motor installed and wired etc..

 

It would have been nice to have a little control panel but not essential.. you live and you learn!

 

Thanks!

[michaelp]

Its still possible to do this, my micro switches are simply super glued directly onto the point motors and are actuated by the point motor pin.

[Brian]

The other, but slightly more expensive option, is to wire a twin coil latching relay into the solenoid point motors feed and return wires. The relay provides two sets of electrically separate change-over contacts that can then be used for frog polarity and LED indications or whatever is needed.

You can make your own using a twin coil latching relay and couple of diodes http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical%20page%202.html#Unable or buy one ready made from Gaugemaster or their suppliers, GM500 is their part number. http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM500&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+GM500

Edited September 27, 2017 by Brian

[DCB]

There are some tiny Chinese micro switches on ebay price £1  for 5 inc postage (from China!)   I have used half a dozen or so to switch point frog polarity, I surface mount them so the point tie bar operates them directly and hold them down with track pins. I'm not expecting them to last very long in the cold and damp but they can be disguised fairly easily and may offer a solution to your need for additional switching capability.

[sharris]

The other, but slightly more expensive option, is to wire a twin coil latching relay into the solenoid point motors feed and return wires. The relay provides two sets of electrically separate change-over contacts that can then be used for frog polarity and LED indications or whatever is needed.

 

 

I might be tempted to stay with the microswitch solution as the latching relay will indicate what you intended the point motors to do rather than what they actually did. If the points jam for some reason a relay would switch over, but the blades wouldn't. 

[Brian]

The model point blades can have something in them - piece of ballast stone etc and still the motor will pull over, operate the micro switch and give a false indication. 

Micro switches especially cheaper ones can stick and occasional fail as they do on the real railway too and they use very high quality ones!

 

Only true to prototype point position indication is to attach each point blade to a separate micro switch and feed each open contact to the opposite sides closed contact proving both sides and do the same for the other way..  

Only the last method really proves the model point blades have actually moved correctly and that's IMO way OTT! 

Edited October 5, 2017 by Brian