EMUs for Eversley Green

[Kelly]

Inspired by Clive, Brian and Signaller69's projects with Mk1 bodies to Mk1 based EMUs, I thought I'd start a fresh thread for mine. Though mine have yet to progress far due to time constraints. I had previously started another topic, but I felt it better to start one just for the EMU stock for the P4 layout Eversley Green (technically the 465 is for Woolwich Dockyard, but as they were tested at Strawberry Hill, in a later time period they could turn up on test at Eversley Green (based upon Shepperton station)).

 

The methods used are Replica bodies+ cab and MJT etched sides.

 

I started out cutting n shutting the Replica bodies, but I couldn't get them to line up for various reasons.

 

As an experiment I decided to give the MJT sides a try. I've managed to get the rolling right after a few tries and false starts. As yet I've got no photos of the sides as all the items are packed away at present. I'll dig the 2HAP unit out at some point (I need to reattach the cab as it was slightly out of alignment).

 

 

 

I have aquired a *lot* of Replica body shells, so I should have enough for the 4VEP, 4CEP (refurb), 2EBPx2, 4EPB and others I've aquired since getting the HAP sides. Now I have worked out a method to roll the sides to my liking (a length of wooden dowel, with the sides taped to it and then rolling gently, being careful to avoid the half-etches from kinking and then rolling it the other way a bit to take some of the excess rolling out).

 

As well as the Mk1 body conversions, I've been working on some 465 networker conversions, these haven't gone quite to plan, as whilst I thought I'd made the joints secure enough, the filler dried quicker on one side than the other, causing a nasty twist. So out came the saw and scalpel again to remove the attached bodies that had warped. I have a fair number of 466 body shells spare, so I might well start afresh with this unit.

 

 

I at least managed to make a suitable centre car chassis for the 465, but getting hold of extras has proven difficult. I expect I will need to make my own replacements for anymore units.

 

Thats all for now. I'll update when I've started putting the sides onto the 2HAP unit, probably not until next week sometime I expect.

 

[Brian Kirby]

Hi Kelly,

  There's nothing like a good old chopped-up cut 'n' shut, they're definitely good for the soul. Taking the plunge is half the battle, and you've passed that stage with flying colours. I find some Replica parts don't fit totally perfectly, there's a bit of jiggery-pokery involved, like with a lot of kits. The other half of the battle is getting thing's nice and square, especially difficult when cutting across whole bodyshells, i've also found some bodyshells come slightly banana-shaped lengthwise, at least with 1950s suburban stock you can fix this by cutting the door lines, then patching and re-gluing. When using strong glues (unavoidable), the parts can warp slightly as the glue continues to dry, a bit like The China Syndrome, so the following day the joint needs a bit of hands-on correcting and bending back into shape. Keep up the good work, the rewards are satisfying, especially when you got a version that nobody else has!

                                                                         Cheers, Brian.

[Kelly]

Hi Kelly,

  There's nothing like a good old chopped-up cut 'n' shut, they're definitely good for the soul. Taking the plunge is half the battle, and you've passed that stage with flying colours. I find some Replica parts don't fit totally perfectly, there's a bit of jiggery-pokery involved, like with a lot of kits. The other half of the battle is getting thing's nice and square, especially difficult when cutting across whole bodyshells, i've also found some bodyshells come slightly banana-shaped lengthwise, at least with 1950s suburban stock you can fix this by cutting the door lines, then patching and re-gluing. When using strong glues (unavoidable), the parts can warp slightly as the glue continues to dry, a bit like The China Syndrome, so the following day the joint needs a bit of hands-on correcting and bending back into shape. Keep up the good work, the rewards are satisfying, especially when you got a version that nobody else has!

                                                                         Cheers, Brian.

 

To counteract the twisting I've started adding brass tube section to the underside of the Replica bodies. This is something Gareth of Replica recommended as he's done a number of conversions using their bodies. It is especially important with the grey bodyshells, which are rejects they'll sell on request cheaply, as they are too plyable a plastic so twist too easily.

[MJI]

Plastruct palstic strip glued under the windows and under the roof, use plastic solvent glues. Leave to dry for ages while clamped together, and do not worry about the roof, filler and wet and dry are your friends.

 

So far sucessfully done 4 vehicles recently.3 with a large number of sections. (8 or more)