Hornby Class 60 (60077) lights on, noise but no movement

[faa77]

Recently bought Hornby R2577, Class 60 Mainline and just tested. Put on track, turn power up slowly, lights come on immediately (lights seem fine), can here the engine start up, just no movement. Try in other direction, same thing except lights reversed. As the speed is increased, the "growl" increases (I want to say engine, but obviously it's not moving).

 

Aside from this having a DCC chip installed (it shouldn't, the original model doesn't seem to be DCC-fitted , was sold new and the packaging seemed it had never been opened, as claimed) is there anything else that could cause this?

[SRman]

R2577, 60 077 Canisp was not originally fitted with sound from the factory, and is listed as having an 8-pin plug/socket. Factory sound models from Hornby use the 21-pin connector.

 

So, first question: did you remove the spongy 'rubber' packaging from under the leading edges of each bogie? I missed this with my first Hornby class 60 and it did move but really struggled to do so.

If the answer to that question was "Yes", then you may have to check to see if the wires to the brushes are intact. If a wire has broken or become unsoldered, it could be at the brush end or the decoder plug end. Also, check the orange and grey wires from the decoder are attached to the plug. These are the most likely causes of no drive to the motor itself. The track power is very obviously getting to the decoder, otherwise you would be getting neither lights nor sound.

The class 60 body removes fairly easily by spreading the sides behind the cabs and letting the chassis drop (gently!) out under its own considerable weight.

[faa77]

R2577, 60 077 Canisp was not originally fitted with sound from the factory, and is listed as having an 8-pin plug/socket. Factory sound models from Hornby use the 21-pin connector.

 

So, first question: did you remove the spongy 'rubber' packaging from under the leading edges of each bogie? I missed this with my first Hornby class 60 and it did move but really struggled to do so.

 

If the answer to that question was "Yes", then you may have to check to see if the wires to the brushes are intact. If a wire has broken or become unsoldered, it could be at the brush end or the decoder plug end. Also, check the orange and grey wires from the decoder are attached to the plug. These are the most likely causes of no drive to the motor itself. The track power is very obviously getting to the decoder, otherwise you would be getting neither lights nor sound.

 

The class 60 body removes fairly easily by spreading the sides behind the cabs and letting the chassis drop (gently!) out under its own considerable weight.

 

Thanks for your reply. Are those rubber parts about 35mm x 8mm and white? If so, they remained in the packaging as I removed the loco. I can't see anything else on the underneath resembling what you describe.

[SRman]

The ones I got caught out by were black, making them hard to see. That doesn't mean Hornby always use the same colour materials, though.

They were wedged between the top of the bogie and the underside of the cab behind the buffer beam.

Edited October 28, 2017 by SRman

[tractor_37260]

Recently bought Hornby R2577, Class 60 Mainline and just tested. Put on track, turn power up slowly, lights come on immediately (lights seem fine), can here the engine start up, just no movement. Try in other direction, same thing except lights reversed. As the speed is increased, the "growl" increases (I want to say engine, but obviously it's not moving).

 

Aside from this having a DCC chip installed (it shouldn't, the original model doesn't seem to be DCC-fitted , was sold new and the packaging seemed it had never been opened, as claimed) is there anything else that could cause this?

 

 It's very likely suffering from the common Hornby problem of seized bearings (Class 50/56/60) on the top of the bogie towers, especially when stored and not run. The grease that Hornby uses solidifies in the drive shaft bearings/worms stopping the drive shafts turning and hence loosing drive.  To cure, remove the retainers that hold the worms in place on the bogie tops, and free off the square bearings that the worms run/turn in. On one of my own 56's it required pliers to get one bearing off the end of the worm ! Once free, lightly oil the worms/bearings ensuring the worms can turn freely in their square bearings.

 

HTH

Ken

Edited October 28, 2017 by tractor_37260

[SteveSpurs]

Does anyone know if there is a Youtube that demonstrates the fix that Ken describes?

[scouse889]

On 28/10/2017 at 13:22, SRman said:

The ones I got caught out by were black, making them hard to see. That doesn't mean Hornby always use the same colour materials, though.

They were wedged between the top of the bogie and the underside of the cab behind the buffer beam.

 

Yes, I know what you are talking about - remove these. I think they were included on the first releases of the locos which came in the expanded polystyrene packaging (these locos also had a transit bracket IIRC) but have not been featured on later releases that come in the icecube-style packaging. 60077 Canisp was one of the locos in the earlier style packaging so would have had these restraining foam pads on when new. They are to stop the bogies moving about in transit.