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Heljan 8900 removing bogies - how?


chaz
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Help required please.

 

I bought a Heljan 4mm class 128 diesel parcels car for a conversion project and need to remove the bogies. These are pivoted on a plastic rod (nylon) which rotates in holes in the sides of the mazac chassis, allowing the bogie to rock fore and aft. In their exploded parts drawing Heljan refers to this part as a "suspension bridge". Do you know how to release this part so that the bogies can be dropped out? please don't guess - I can do that myself - I need to hear from you if you have done this, without breaking anything. 

 

Chaz

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Help required please.

 

I bought a Heljan 4mm class 128 diesel parcels car for a conversion project and need to remove the bogies. These are pivoted on a plastic rod (nylon) which rotates in holes in the sides of the mazac chassis, allowing the bogie to rock fore and aft. In their exploded parts drawing Heljan refers to this part as a "suspension bridge". Do you know how to release this part so that the bogies can be dropped out? please don't guess - I can do that myself - I need to hear from you if you have done this, without breaking anything. 

 

Chaz

Why don't you ring Mike at Howes.............................he's had quite a few of these in bits!

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Why don't you ring Mike at Howes.............................he's had quite a few of these in bits!

 

 

Mike? Do you know his surname? OK, I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Chaz

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Take the side frames off the bogie. Get a flat bladed jewlers screwdriver and take the retaining lug off the top of the bogie that also forms the rotating mount for the bogie. The bogie tower wil then split at the top releasing the yoke. The yoke rotated to horizontal will then be able to be removed sideways.

 

PS-don't worry if you end up with it falling apart. HJ bogies can be taken apart and  reassembled without any more tools than a screwdriver. 

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Take the side frames off the bogie. Get a flat bladed jewlers screwdriver and take the retaining lug off the top of the bogie that also forms the rotating mount for the bogie. The bogie tower wil then split at the top releasing the yoke. The yoke rotated to horizontal will then be able to be removed sideways.

 

PS-don't worry if you end up with it falling apart. HJ bogies can be taken apart and  reassembled without any more tools than a screwdriver. 

 

 

Excellent - thanks very much for that very useful information. I intend to shorten the chassis, keeping the motor central and drilling new holes for the bogie yoke. I will need to shorten the drive shafts that join the motor to the bogies. There's going to be a lot of sawing, grinding and filing so I will be stripping out all the parts right down to a bare mazac casting (moulding?) too avoid any damage.

 

Chaz

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Instead of trying to make new mounting points in the original cast chassis, you have two options. Either cut the cast cassis into sections (bogie mount, centre motor mount, bogie mount) or drill a series of hole into some plastic square section and use this to mount the yokes. As to making the drive shafts shorter, just chop them in half and find some tube that the drive shafts fit into.

 

The bogie are of 4 pieces, top mount, bottom mount, which just clip fit onto the 2 side pieces. Inside you will find the gears, a worm, 2 bearings for the worm. The pickups just fit onto the sides.

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Instead of trying to make new mounting points in the original cast chassis, you have two options. Either cut the cast cassis into sections (bogie mount, centre motor mount, bogie mount) or drill a series of hole into some plastic square section and use this to mount the yokes. As to making the drive shafts shorter, just chop them in half and find some tube that the drive shafts fit into.

 

The bogie are of 4 pieces, top mount, bottom mount, which just clip fit onto the 2 side pieces. Inside you will find the gears, a worm, 2 bearings for the worm. The pickups just fit onto the sides.

 

 

More very useful information - thanks very much. It's my intention to decide how I will shorten chassis once I have stripped it down to a bare mazak shell. I will be looking for the easiest solution that will produce a reliable result. There will be plenty of room for any parts I need to add to get the shortened chassis to hold together. The body shell will be an On30 railcar, possibly scratch built, or a Bachmann passenger car chop.

 

Chaz

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