N gauge layout track plan help, Hugh are you there!

[McShads]

I originally posted this in the Layout plans thread by Hugh until it was pointed out to me that no one would probably look there now.

 

Hello Hugh (and everyone)

 

First post from a long time lurker! Looking for some ideas for my first layout.

 

It is N gauge, size 7'2" x 6'2". It is made up of 4 boards with a well in the centre.

The board sizes are:

Top 7'2" x 2'2", Left 4' x 2', Right 4' x 1'2" & bottom 4' x 10". (Hope that makes sense)

 

I'm looking for a Scottish/highland theme, BR blue era mainly but will run the odd late steamer, with plenty of storage for locos and some full trains (full trains to mean loco plus 4 coaches if poss) This is the bit I'm having trouble with as it is suprising even in N how much space (length) this requires especially if one uses easements on curves and (short) straights before points (both of which I understand to be desirable)

 

The track is Kato unitrack and I'd like to stick to 12" or larger radius curves and no. 6 points.

 

In a fiddle yard (ie off scene) is it OK to use no.4 points (short) or is it likely to cause problems, derailments etc. even though the trains will be travelling slower? By the same token can you save space by not using easements into curves or would this lead to problems? My fiddle yard will be out of sight and also quite difficult to reach/access (layout is 4'6" this bit 2'2" wide, against a wall) so though I'm keen to save space I'm equally keen not to create problems!!

 

Any ideas much appreciated

[Etched Pixels]

I'd be cautious of Kato #4 points. They work well with modern fine wheel flanges but they don't work well with old cookie cutters or some other more "interesting" wheels Dapol have shipped - eg the road rollers on the first Hymeks. It's not a #4 point problem (indeed Peco set-track points are more reliable!) but very much the design of the Kato #4s. It's also very important they are well supported (and in general for Kato track that is true).

 

One other thing I would say immediately - don't put the fiddle yard in a hard to reach location such as against a wall

 

- It's a "fiddle" yard - you fiddle with it

- All the track needs cleaning

- You will need to rerail stuff there, shuffle stock etc

 

Been there, done that, regretted it to the point I ripped it up.

 

If you want to avoid the scenic section being eaten by the fiddle yard then there are better ways to do it including spiraling the boards so the fiddle yard ends up below the layout, or having a chunk of pure removable scenery with the fiddle yard underneath (which except for storage purposes when you are not using the layout I will bet stays off )

 

There are some good ways to gain space and keep a realistic big open feel with long points - a good one is to consider starting the split from single to double track passing places and siding access on one of the sides with the tracks all gently curving into the station area along a long board.

 

The same thing works even more so on the fiddle yard side so you can get more long roads.

 

On the other questions

- I wouldn't worry about easements into 12 radius curves unless you find them visually better at a given spot

- A little bit of straight off a curve before a facing point does help - but you only need one bogie length and its not really essential with #6 points

[McShads]

Thanks Mr. Pixels for taking the trouble to reply. You make some good points (sic) which are very helpful.