Heljan Class 26/7 Heavy starting load

[Mad McCann]

Having a number of these models, I notice that on DC at least, a lot of power is required to get them moving which makes for an unconvincing slow start. A similar situation existed for the Class 47 when I had those. What solutions exist that would allow a decent smooth, slow start?

 

TIA

 

D.

[cheesysmith]

Taking the thing appart (the bogies/drive train just clips together) and make sure its not clogged up with grease would be a good first step. A lot of the problems with smooth starts can be down to this. Also, check for slack in the drive train. Poor worm gear meshing can cause this, but is difficult to cure.

[Dunsignalling]

All of my Heljan diesels need around twice the juice to get them moving as to keep them moving. You have to watch what you are doing to prevent them going into scalded cat mode when they do start rolling. Definitely a job for controllers with knobs rather than buttons.

 

I think it's a general characteristic of the motors they use, though some are (a bit) better than others and most seem to improve with use.

 

One cure I've seen recommended is to replace the motor with a Canon item.

 

John

Edited December 10, 2017 by Dunsignalling

[Mad McCann]

Cheers Jon; I was thinking along those lines, but Cheesy's suggestion will also be adopted as standard. Given the bull of my models have been lying idle in boxes for up to ten years that's probably a must anyway.

 

D4.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

... the bulk of my models have been lying idle in boxes for up to ten years...

 Ah, that answers the question that popped into my head on reading this thread. In my experience Heljan have significantly altered in respect of draggy drive lines since that time, the stiction mostly caused by a stiff grease solidly packed into gear towers, with resultant high current draw as the motors overcame the drag. (The maximum speed was often severely limited too, one friend's class 47 struggled for a scale 50 mph, no good for his desired main line 'belt along' progress! Cleaned out the thick grease and put in a small quantity of a lighter replacement and it went at double the rate, so I then had to trim top end speed on the decoder.)

 

More recent productions (classes 15, 16, 23, 26/0, 128 are those I have sampled) have been smooth starters and free running as received; and on looking inside the gear towers there's a modest quantity of a thin grease well distributed. While the motors do still draw more current, it's now only about 50% more than that of comparable competitor product. All rather more civilised...

[DCB]

Having a number of these models, I notice that on DC at least, a lot of power is required to get them moving which makes for an unconvincing slow start. A similar situation existed for the Class 47 when I had those. What solutions exist that would allow a decent smooth, slow start?

 

TIA

 

D.

You don't say what sort of controller you are using. some PWM and feedback controllers cope very badly with sticky chassis. Some of the old H&M controllers had a boost button to give a pulse of uncontrolled 12 volts to overcome sticktion and my diode based Jouef/Playcraft style controllers give very good starts without racing away as do Morleys.  Morleys cost £75+ while I think my controller cost £3

[Scottish Modeller]

Having a number of these models, I notice that on DC at least, a lot of power is required to get them moving which makes for an unconvincing slow start. A similar situation existed for the Class 47 when I had those. What solutions exist that would allow a decent smooth, slow start?

 

TIA

 

D.

Hi Dave,

 

Which wheelsets do your models have?

 

If they are the older darkened ones - replace them.

 

There are newer, shiny, wheelsets available from Heljan (Howes) that make a big difference.

 

If they are the newer shiny wheelsets, then full strip of the bogies plus total cleanout then light oil instead of the grease they usually have in them.

 

Thanks