SRman Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 That's really taking shape now, Tom. I would have expected a Maunsell shunter to have an air whistle, rather than horns, or at best, a single horn, but if you like it your way, it is your model to do with as you wish ... Rule 1 applies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 That's really taking shape now, Tom. I would have expected a Maunsell shunter to have an air whistle, rather than horns, or at best, a single horn, but if you like it your way, it is your model to do with as you wish ... Rule 1 applies. I do actually have slight justification for this, as I'm planning to use it on a (distant) future preservation era layout, hence it would have a few bits and pieces added by later operators... Also the air horns are much easier to get hold of! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Coursework has taken over my life at the moment, so all I've had time to do recently is make the roof and fit the radiator mesh. Cardboard won the roof experiments, the plastic one distorted too much and shrank. The chassis has hit a stumbling block in that using 0-4-0 conrods with 4F retaining screws leaves a massive amount of play in the rods, so I'm trying to fix that as well. I'll be adapting the CAD model to use the 4F conrods for the final version so this issue doesn't arise. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 So the chassis issue I alluded to earlier is that the wheels tend to bind at a certain point during their revolution due to the 0-4-0 conrods being slightly the wrong length and having too much play in them (the old 0-4-0 crankpins are massive compared to the 4F ones I'm using). Been irritating me for a while, but I may have solved the issue with some plasticard and some bodging. Not a difficult fix, but it took some aligning. More to follow tomorrow if I have time to get the gears meshed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Right. Chassis working! One slight tight spot, but the flywheel more or less covers it and I can't be bothered to fiddle about with the conrod alignment any more. Sticking 3v directly onto the motor is shown in the video below, all I had lying around was a cheap wall transformer, so a proper controller should be able to make it smoother and slower. The motor is slightly raised at the back (see the bits of paper wedged under it) - this is because I didn't measure the motor height properly so the gear didn't mesh 1st time, but I will correct it for the purchasable (is that a word?) version. The next step is to make it all nice and neat and solder up the pickups so it will run on track. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 The wiring is now a bit neater, the pickups are wired to a terminal block, which just makes the assembly a bit easier. It now works by touching the power supply to the wheels, so in theory it will work on track, I just need to wait until I'm home for Easter before I can test that. Moving on to painting the body next, it's not too far off being finished! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 Had a few minutes free last night, so the shunter now has some additional weight under the bonnet. A small engine like this is going to make or break on whether it can be heavy enough, and I think this one will be fine - there's still some additional places I want to add ballast to and it's fairly hefty already. And with a shot of primer: 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Painting in progress, gloss black means it should take transfers reasonably well. I had to take the grille out to replace it as it gets blocked up if you do anything other than multiple very light coats. Hopefully I can keep the coats light enough on the buffers so they stay springy. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Not much cab detail, but it'll do. And took the opportunity to add some more ballast and stop the motor being visible through the radiator. It widens out at the bottom, so there's more steel in there than it looks. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Just roof, transfers, final details, matt varnish and glazing to go! Not looking bad, even if I say so myself. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
73c Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Really does look the part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 The build is now complete! Transfers from HMRS finish it off (the only ones small enough to fit on the sides), with glazing using that gluey stuff I can't quite remember the name of right now. Before making the model available on Shapeways, I'm making a few minor changes to the design - if there's anything you think I should change, now would be an excellent time to let me know. I'll produce some basic instructions too, although this thread should be detailed enough that people can follow the steps I did. I'll make a video of it running when I'm home for Easter and can access my layout, so stay tuned for that in a day or two. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 The kit is now available on Shapeways! Link here. I may have got a little carried away with the branding and instructions... The list of modifications from the prototype shown in the video: - rivet detail increased in size to avoid being lost during polishing and sanding process - buffer mountings increased in size slightly - wheelbase shortened to make use of better 4F conrods and screws - pickup locations adjusted - gearset changed This is why we test things! It is now also available in FUD, as well as the WSF that mine is made from. The major change is the gearset - the one I was using did not mesh properly as the gears were not designed to fit together. This, plus lack of lubrication, wore out the plastic drive gear in about an hour of heavy use. As such, the chassis design has been changed to use a scale-link gearset, specifically designed to fit together and all metal, which will be much more robust. As such, I can't guarantee everything will be perfect, it all fits in CAD, so if anyone runs into any issues, please let me know so I can fix it! I'm not expecting this to be a big seller, for me it was an exercise in trying out a new technique, so the markup is very small. All in, mine cost about £50 (motor, gears, handrail wire, buffers, everything included) which included buying full packs of stuff that most people will have in their spares box, and was nice and easy to build. The new gearset is also slightly cheaper. You could build it for a lot less if you used parts from scrap/spares or changed some of the details. I may also be able to supply some of the leftovers from my build to further reduce the cost. I've edited the first post of this thread to include a feature list and a copy of the parts list and instructions, so do check that out if you're interested. Got a couple more 'kits' in the pipeline, starting with a replacement Wrenn R1 chassis. Not sure 'kit' is exactly the right word, given that you have to source most of it yourself! TS01 Instructions & Parts List.pdf 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 31, 2018 Author Share Posted March 31, 2018 Dug out the prototype this morning for a bit of a comparison, so if anyone feels like playing spot the difference... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 The new gearset got delivered today, being used in my R1 chassis project, but you can see the difference to the old set on the left, all metal and much more robust. Managed to check the body on a standard Hornby 0-4-0 chassis too, so that would be a decent cheaper option, if not quite as smooth. The chassis will need a little modification around the sides to fit the narrower body as well as shortening. Just for fun, I also seem to have invented an outside framed Class 06... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lu4472ke Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 The new gearset got delivered today, being used in my R1 chassis project, but you can see the difference to the old set on the left, all metal and much more robust. WP_001318865.jpg Managed to check the body on a standard Hornby 0-4-0 chassis too, so that would be a decent cheaper option, if not quite as smooth. The chassis will need a little modification around the sides to fit the narrower body as well as shortening. WP_001321866.jpg Just for fun, I also seem to have invented an outside framed Class 06... WP_001322867.jpg That 06 has given me an idea... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzler Fan Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) -DELETED - Noel Edited April 21, 2018 by Dazzler Fan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Well, I'm in! I have just ordered the body and chassis from Shapeways, and am looking at the gear set and grille mesh from Scale Link right now.I have some Hornby 08 wheelsets and cranks with coupling rods already so will see about possibly using some of the parts. I'll wade through the rest of the parts list later - I know I already have things like handrail knobs, horns and whistles, wire, phosphor bronze strip, spare brass sheet, glazing materials and plastic card, so hopefully not too much else to get apart from a motor and flywheel, and I may even have those sitting spare somewhere!You're a terrible man, TS, tempting us poor hard done by Southern modellers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Well, I'm in! I have just ordered the body and chassis from Shapeways, and am looking at the gear set and grille mesh from Scale Link right now. I have some Hornby 08 wheelsets and cranks with coupling rods already so will see about possibly using some of the parts. I'll wade through the rest of the parts list later - I know I already have things like handrail knobs, horns and whistles, wire, phosphor bronze strip, spare brass sheet, glazing materials and plastic card, so hopefully not too much else to get apart from a motor and flywheel, and I may even have those sitting spare somewhere! You're a terrible man, TS, tempting us poor hard done by Southern modellers. I'm sorry! I think you're the first person to test it with the Scalelink gearset, so do let me know how it goes so I can make any improvements if necessary! The specific motor I used and designed it for is available here, but you could use a different one if you're prepared to do a little fettling. Having said that, I have plenty of spare motors and grille mesh I'd be happy to give you some if you want them? Drop me a PM if you do. There's instructions and a full parts list on post #63 if you want them, though I'd recommend phosphor bronze strip over the pickups I used as they're a bit 'friction-y'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 I have now bought most of the parts, with the exception of the coupling rods and the flywheel. At this stage, I have it sitting with the motor and Scale Link worm gear actually meshing with the Hornby gear on the 08 wheels/axle assembly. If I want to swap to the Scale Link gear wheel, I haven't yet figured out how to remove a wheel without damaging the fly crank.I was thinking of putting the diesel as a part of my industrial fleet, so have painted my grille mesh red and the body in BR express steam blue, although that has proved a little darker than I had in mind. i may try a coat of LNER garter blue instead. I am debating whether to have red or yellow buffer beams, or even some wasp stripes.I will post a few pics later, when I have made more progress, as I don't want to hijack TS's topic with multiple posts of my progress. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted May 16, 2018 Author Share Posted May 16, 2018 I have now bought most of the parts, with the exception of the coupling rods and the flywheel. At this stage, I have it sitting with the motor and Scale Link worm gear actually meshing with the Hornby gear on the 08 wheels/axle assembly. If I want to swap to the Scale Link gear wheel, I haven't yet figured out how to remove a wheel without damaging the fly crank. I managed to get the wheel off by gently pulling and at the same time, wiggling a screwdriver between the axle and the plastic insert in the wheel centre. The harder part is putting the axle back on square with the quartering correct! The scale-link gear should mesh pretty much perfectly as I've just assembled my R1 chassis which has the same motor mount and gear dimensions, which works very nicely. I will post a few pics later, when I have made more progress, as I don't want to hijack TS's topic with multiple posts of my progress. Please hijack away! The pictures will be very useful for me to correct any issues with it and to see how someone else approaches building it, which may not be the same way I did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 TS doesn't know what he's let himself into, inviting me to hijack his thread!! Anyway, here's some progress on mine, mostly told by the photos. Apologies that some were taken in poor lighting conditions. The photos do show some rough areas in my workmanship I need to correct, including one of the side doors on one side being taller than the rest. The photos also show some of my livery experiments. I'm not sure if I'll stick with the red trim along the footplate sides; I have already changed from red buffer beams to yellow, which brightens up the image considerably. The initial blue was BR express steam blue, which seemed a little dark for the effect I wanted, so I have gone for a lighter blue from the Humbrol standard colour range.For the cab roof, I am thinking in terms of a bit of sheet brass curved down at the edges.Buffers are Bachmann's oval sprung ones, but I am also considering swapping them for some larger diameter round ones.I have followed most of TS's recommendations for the motors and gears and bits and pieces. I already have handrails and whistles and other bits and bobs in my workbench stocks. One thing I have found, though, is the Scale Link axle gear with its shoulders is just a teensy bit too wide for the chassis to allow the Hornby axle bearings to sit in properly - we're talking probably 0.5 mm here. I will be removing the gear and grinding a little off each side of its shoulders, and that should fix the problem.Anyway, see what you think of my efforts so far. IMG_20180514_204352 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180514_204405 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180514_204451 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180514_204534 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180516_182214 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180516_182230 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180519_100554 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180519_100609 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on FlickrIMG_20180519_100623 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 That's looking good! Your paint scheme has made it look far more industrial than mine - what are the buffers you've used? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 (edited) The buffers are Bachmann's oval sprung ones. The painting is very rough at present, while I experiment with the colours. I'll sand back a bit and do it properly once I finalise the scheme. The footplate top will be black, and I have to unclog some of the grille mesh.I have added a brass sheet roof now, but it is too dark to take photos right now (11:15pm at night with a failed light bulb where I am working!). Edited May 19, 2018 by SRman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 As mentioned above, last night I found some sheet brass and cut a rectangle approximately 31mm x 35mm, then proceeded to curve it using finger and thumb to the flatter profile of the cab, followed by carefully turning the edges over further using long-nosed pliers to follow the more sharply radiused outer edges.IMG_20180520_094718 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr IMG_20180520_094741 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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