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Get yourself a good quality isopon filler, loads of patience and enjoy , it will be a challenge and google is a great source of seeing what they ought to look like.... I seem to recall that cab moulding is quite good, but the body questionable, it may test your patience and common sense is always the override to any MTK paperwork!

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Afternoon,

 

I was wondering if anyone knew what would be the best way to stick the pieces together on my kit and which primer to prime it with for painting. Any help would be very appreciated.

 

Regards, Matthew

hi Matthew throw the instructions away is my first tip and secondly build it in two parts i.e. body and chassis.

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hi Matthew throw the instructions away is my first tip and secondly build it in two parts i.e. body and chassis.

I've built many MTK coach kits and I always removed one of the lips on the coach ends so rather then slot in you could rest the chassis on to the lip its a much easier way. Not familiar with the DVT but should be possible to do it that way. I would use a normal matt enamel such as Humbrol No 1.

They where ahead of their time and a good modelling project but as previous member has said you need filler and patience by the way did it come wrapped with newspaper?

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I've built many MTK coach kits and I always removed one of the lips on the coach ends so rather then slot in you could rest the chassis on to the lip its a much easier way. Not familiar with the DVT but should be possible to do it that way. I would use a normal matt enamel such as Humbrol No 1.

They where ahead of their time and a good modelling project but as previous member has said you need filler and patience by the way did it come wrapped with newspaper?

Sorry its all coming back to me now I used Evostick to fit ends if their plastic and if the cabs are white metal something like an epoxy.

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I've built many MTK coach kits and I always removed one of the lips on the coach ends so rather then slot in you could rest the chassis on to the lip its a much easier way. Not familiar with the DVT but should be possible to do it that way. I would use a normal matt enamel such as Humbrol No 1.

They where ahead of their time and a good modelling project but as previous member has said you need filler and patience by the way did it come wrapped with newspaper?

Hi, yes it did come with newspaper dated 1988

 

Regards, Matthew

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Has it an aluminium shell with white metal cast ends? Make sure the mating surfaces are well keyed/roughed up for a better bond and check everything dry fits square before sticking together as the lips will probably need a lot of filing to fit well.

 

  On my MTK DMU I used superglue to join the ends to the shells; clamped up overnight and then 24 hour araldite on the inside to strengthen the joints. 2 part car body filler will be good for hiding the joins.

 

  Enjoy the build.

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Has it an aluminium shell with white metal cast ends? Make sure the mating surfaces are well keyed/roughed up for a better bond and check everything dry fits square before sticking together as the lips will probably need a lot of filing to fit well.

 

  On my MTK DMU I used superglue to join the ends to the shells; clamped up overnight and then 24 hour araldite on the inside to strengthen the joints. 2 part car body filler will be good for hiding the joins.

 

  Enjoy the build.

Hi,

 

yes it does and thanks for the tips and info.

 

Regards, Matthew

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The upside of a fairly basic kit such as the dvt.... with no instructions, is that it's a great way to experiment and enhance modelling skills , weither it be glues, soldering, fillers, glazing and painting and overall research with google.

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