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Peco Turntable adaption for perm power ( DCC Sound )


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Just thought id share this as i had not found an easy way anywhere else...

 

I have a sound loco and i wanted it to remain powered through 360deg rotation of the turntable. I did start from scratch with a new build turntable, but i wanted to adapt a built one, as that is what most people would have.

 

The plan was minimal adapting, and all non-visual.

 

Sorry if this is teaching you to such eggs....

 

Here we go....

 

the first thing is to make a grove in the top of the plunger section for the wire to sit in. ( also drilled a hole to make it easier for the next stage

 

IMG 20190111 163940

 

then i drilled a into the main plunger post at the side, into the inside of the plunger

 

IMG 20190111 163934

 

it looks messy, but remember it will be hidden.

 

next, i feed some of the turntable wire in the pack down the plunger and out the hole on the side i just drilled. its best to give yourself plenty of length.

 

IMG 20190111 164414

 

then feed the end you just passed through the new drilled hole, up and down what should usually hold the spring loaded brass thingy. Make sure the wire does not go all the way through - i still have some poking out the plunger.

 

IMG 20190111 164545

 
you should then have this...
 

IMG 20190111 164605

 
next , take the brass spring loaded plunger thingy and solder the end that came out the rail side of the bridge to the flat end. The idea is we will reinsert the brass thing upside down.
 

IMG 20190111 164723

 
should look like this...
 

IMG 20190111 165335

 
then reinsert the plunger, wire down, nobble up into the hole below the track.

 

you can see it upside down in the hole...

 

IMG 20190111 165532

 
now we need a 4mm brass rod, and solder the wire that comes out the main plunger part.
 

IMG 20190111 170446

 
once done, file any poor soldering down ( :-) ) and insert into the plunger hole - helping the wire to feed out the drill hole on the side. I then used some insulation tape over the wire as it comes out from the bottom of the springy bass thingy.
 

IMG 20190111 171845

 

 
Then you need to amend the collar on the table - so i then used a craft nice to cut out the bit of plastic that is usually between the two sides of the split ring - this is so i can solder the two together and not have it too raised.
 

IMG 20190111 172232

 
i then placed a small bit of solder on the ends of one split ring, then placed the other side ends over the top ( to maintain a true circle ) and joined the two together by reheating the solder through the top one.
 

IMG 20190111 173405

 
Then i placed if back in the turntable.
 
I then found a 4mm ID brass collar, and soldered another separate piece of wire, 
 

IMG 20190111 174847

 

then inserted the turntable bridge in to the well, and slipped the collar on to the brass rod. Its not 100% fit ( a little bit loose ) so use a 4mm ID spring ( one the same as supplied in the kit ) to keep the collar against the stepper coupler ( not shown ).
 
this is the end result...
 

IMG 20190111 175009

 

 
i tested it and it worked really well for me.
 
Let me know if this is useful.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

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One thing that I have seen done by someone building a turn table from scratch is to use an audio jack as the main pivot point and electrical contact.  This ensures that the power always stays on no matter what angle you have the deck at.  It will need an auto reverse module feeding it to ensure that upon the loco moving on/off the bridge that there are no shorts.

This will also work on a PECO one provided that you are not using the shaft for turning using motor or other mechanical means.

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