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  1. looking at a new idea last night... instead of a physical controller, what about a web interface - so the controller connects to your wifi ( or ad-hoc wifi if you are at a train show ) and you interact with the turntable using your phone/tablet/computer. means you can have the controller far away ( these a re small, those are far away! ) but controll it anywhere.... and configure it anywhere too.
  2. Hi, it was not on this forum, and i dont know whether this individual is part of this forum or not - im not going to go looking ( or say who it was ) - thats not fair. The threats were to post on various online spaces things that "would make sure no one buys your devices again". Im not out to screw money out of anyone, im not out to make shoddy goods, i genuinely found something i could do that i loved. I think i was just naive that everyone would be nice, id get to know them , build a relationship , it would be fun, wasnt out to take advantage of anyone and share a common interest - so its shocked me alot and i dont think i deserved it - obviously everyone has their opinion and viewpoint and i must respect that too. I guess i just need to figure out if i went back to it in the future, would i approach it the same way - as a friendly operation as apposed to a hardnosed business ( which isnt me ).
  3. hi all. just a quick update. i decided to stop selling turntable related products due to a recent amount of abuse/upset and i just dont feel it was justified. I was making them cause i love doing it, solding boards together, writting code, interacting with customers, helping them to write arduino code, but i feel like i have just had my nads repeatidly whacked with a bat ( Boyle style from B99! ) and the amount of rudeness and upset doesnt justify going on. Never really understood why people are rude and nasty and threatening to people. dont want to be part of it. If anyone wants help with code, or writting, or help with problems, still available to help.
  4. Ian,

    Did you have any luck with the relay board PCBs that you were doing for me.


    Barry Cole   modelgliding {at} aol.com

  5. if you upgrade to the slightly more expensive TMC2208 driver, its almost completely silent, and no longer requires to disengage the "Enabled" pin... the downside to turning off the "Enabled" pin is that the bridge can jump back/forward to the nearest whole step, taking it out of alignment. Plus its free to move, so the controller no longer "knows" where the stepper motor is.
  6. blocksignalling does a dcc reversing module. http://www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/dcc-autoreverser-rev1
  7. ah, even easier if your putting it together first - as you can drill the holes easier in the base. if he plans on motorising it, either with DC or DCC then www.dccinterface.com have a good kit on sale.
  8. Just thought id share this as i had not found an easy way anywhere else... I have a sound loco and i wanted it to remain powered through 360deg rotation of the turntable. I did start from scratch with a new build turntable, but i wanted to adapt a built one, as that is what most people would have. The plan was minimal adapting, and all non-visual. Sorry if this is teaching you to such eggs.... Here we go.... the first thing is to make a grove in the top of the plunger section for the wire to sit in. ( also drilled a hole to make it easier for the next stage then i drilled a into the main plunger post at the side, into the inside of the plunger it looks messy, but remember it will be hidden. next, i feed some of the turntable wire in the pack down the plunger and out the hole on the side i just drilled. its best to give yourself plenty of length. then feed the end you just passed through the new drilled hole, up and down what should usually hold the spring loaded brass thingy. Make sure the wire does not go all the way through - i still have some poking out the plunger. you should then have this... next , take the brass spring loaded plunger thingy and solder the end that came out the rail side of the bridge to the flat end. The idea is we will reinsert the brass thing upside down. should look like this... then reinsert the plunger, wire down, nobble up into the hole below the track. you can see it upside down in the hole... now we need a 4mm brass rod, and solder the wire that comes out the main plunger part. once done, file any poor soldering down ( :-) ) and insert into the plunger hole - helping the wire to feed out the drill hole on the side. I then used some insulation tape over the wire as it comes out from the bottom of the springy bass thingy. Then you need to amend the collar on the table - so i then used a craft nice to cut out the bit of plastic that is usually between the two sides of the split ring - this is so i can solder the two together and not have it too raised. i then placed a small bit of solder on the ends of one split ring, then placed the other side ends over the top ( to maintain a true circle ) and joined the two together by reheating the solder through the top one. Then i placed if back in the turntable. I then found a 4mm ID brass collar, and soldered another separate piece of wire, then inserted the turntable bridge in to the well, and slipped the collar on to the brass rod. Its not 100% fit ( a little bit loose ) so use a 4mm ID spring ( one the same as supplied in the kit ) to keep the collar against the stepper coupler ( not shown ). this is the end result... i tested it and it worked really well for me. Let me know if this is useful.
  9. is it between the two small diodes at the side of the board?
  10. i cant really see where its soldered to on the picture. do you have any more?
  11. so the negative lead goes to the two small pads on the chip, and the positive connects to the positive blue wire ? ok, that sounds easy.
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