Baseboards - plywood or not?

[MarshLane]

Hi all,

I know this is a question that could have as many answers as days of the year, but I have some core baseboards down in the loft, supported by 2”x1” framing. They have a 3/4” chipboard top to them and all is fine. I know the arguments against chipboard but it’s already down and the last layout I had used a chipboard top and lasted a good 20 years!

 

I have yet to actually get round to putting the layout down on them, and my plan is a lower level fiddle yard (on the chipboard surface)  with the scenic and general layout on an upper level.

 

I am seeking some views and thoughts on how to do the baseboards for the upper level. My idea is to cut the wood to the shape of track formation to allow easier access below and also for scenic areas. My idea is to use plywood but is the a) the best material and if so b) what thickness? I’ll ensure whatever is used is adequately supported to stop any bowing or warping.

 

The thought is 2mm scale with points operated from below by servos if that has any impact on people’s thoughts.

 

All comments and ideas are welcomed, thanks in advance.

 

Rich

[jcredfer]

Hi,

Ply is good material for layouts, and is less vulnerable to warping [like chipboard, but lighter] than plain timber, due to the alternating direction of the grain layers.  The better the quality of the Ply, the less damp will affect it.  It is stronger than many people are aware of, which is why it was used for Mosquito, Vampire and Venom aircraft, with many others, too.  6mm for the top and sides, with 3/4mm for braces is very strong.  It is also possible to use 3mm for the sides, if you double them with vertical spacers glued at intervals between them.  There are many companies who will pre-cut them for you to fit them - a bit like flat-pack.

 

I find Servos so very flexible items to use, but they need a little thought to get the geometry correct.  Over the movements they would be used for with Points, they are incredibly powerful and adjustable.  You will find people who will post how difficult and problematic they are, these are people who haven't thought out, or asked for advice.  As a result they have "produced" problems, which are the result of their lack of mechanical abilities, none of which are difficult to prevent.  They can be above or below the boards and remote from the PCB which controls them, also run control rods in many different directions.  If you want more info, just ask.

 

Regards

 

Julian

[MarshLane]

Thanks Julian,

You've confirmed my line of thinking with 6mm plywood for the top.  I suspect the upper level will not need the hefty framework given that N gauge is quite lightweight.

 

I'll certainly be in touch with your more about Servos.  Given the number involved, it may be that I need to look down the MERG route on cost grounds.  I've played with them before, but not seriously in a layout scenario.  What I'm thinking of doing will need working semaphores too, so they will definitely be used for those too.

 

Rich

[jcredfer]

N might get to be Ok with 6mm Ply for the top, if the sides are 4mm, either way, good ply is the key.

 

There are a good number of Servo kits these days, less expensive per unit servo with the more each PCB controls [generally...].  It pays to Google around for the size board which will serve you best and compare the prices.  For example, a 4 servo board might serve a small station, with Servo leads of reasonable length, at a reasonable pice per unit.  On the other hand a PCB with 12 servos might be required to have very large extension leads to the Servos and may well, still, be more pricey per unit.  Prices are well worth checking.

 

Just to tickle your imagination, I'm working on a system to operate 2 or 4 gate Level crossing gates with one Servo.  How about crossovers powered with one servo [saves point clashes and price of a Servo]??  .............     Get thee behind me Satan.....  !      

 

Regards

 

Julian