Bachmann B1

[Theakerr]

Being an ER enthusiast I have 5 Bachmann B1s. Only one has run properly from new. The others were jerky and rocked as though they were dancing to Cream. 3, I was able to fix by a mixture of centering various drive sprockets, centering the driving axle, eliminating binding on the wheel keeper plate brake hanger bogey assembly, fixing back to backs, eliminating rubbing on the plastic insert, eliminating rubbing on the valve gear, removing the baked on as shipped wheel lubricant, etc. On the 4th it did not matter what I did I couldn't get it to stop jerking and in the process of trying to fix it one more time, I broke one of the wheel bosses where the plastic joiner insert goes in. I thought this was the end until I heard about Bachmann's spare parts program and ordered a new wheel set. After paying £11.00 via paypal, my new fully assembled wheels with fine blackened con rods arrived in Canada. After grinding down the centre pin head to provide clearance for the eccentric and re-connecting the valve gear, I test ran the unit. It was a new loco; smooth, no jerks and good controllability over the entire speed range. Not at all sure what the difference is. Perhaps everything is square on the new assembly whereas something was eccentric on the old, who knows? Anyway, a relatively cheap fix that I though I would pass along. Note I have had similar problems on my J39's and although I have been able to "fix" them. However, one is still not as good as it might be. Perhaps I will try the same "fix" on it.

[gresley]

Being an ER enthusiast I have 5 Bachmann B1s. Only one has run properly from new. The others were jerky and rocked as though they were dancing to Cream. 3, I was able to fix by a mixture of centering various drive sprockets, centering the driving axle, eliminating binding on the wheel keeper plate brake hanger bogey assembly, fixing back to backs, eliminating rubbing on the plastic insert, eliminating rubbing on the valve gear, removing the baked on as shipped wheel lubricant, etc. On the 4th it did not matter what I did I couldn't get it to stop jerking and in the process of trying to fix it one more time, I broke one of the wheel bosses where the plastic joiner insert goes in. I thought this was the end until I heard about Bachmann's spare parts program and ordered a new wheel set. After paying £11.00 via paypal, my new fully assembled wheels with fine blackened con rods arrived in Canada. After grinding down the centre pin head to provide clearance for the eccentric and re-connecting the valve gear, I test ran the unit. It was a new loco; smooth, no jerks and good controllability over the entire speed range. Not at all sure what the difference is. Perhaps everything is square on the new assembly whereas something was eccentric on the old, who knows? Anyway, a relatively cheap fix that I though I would pass along. Note I have had similar problems on my J39's and although I have been able to "fix" them. However, one is still not as good as it might be. Perhaps I will try the same "fix" on it.

 

 

I know that this is only ONE possible solution, (somebody is bound to come up with cheaper alternatives - they always do ), but I too have suffered from these problems and have found that the only really reliable long term solution is to replace the Bachmann split chassis with a "proper" one. Of course this is not cheap, but if you really love your B1s, then it is worthwhile.

 

gresley

[Theakerr]

Fair comment and I had looked at building a proper chassis. Cost was/is an issue and I was spurred on by having one run perfectly right from the box. Further, since I like to watch trains go by and run a variation on a roundy round theme (6 trains automatically sequenced in each direction soon to be expanded to 9) I was more concerned with the constant speed running at the designated speed that having full controllability over the entire speed range