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The Johnster's Meat Van.


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Just assembled a Kitmaster (previously Airfix then Dapol, who still market them under the KM name) BR standard Meat Van, and thought I'd post a few notes and general observations for the benefit of anyone doing the same or similar.  This is a pretty straightforward kit, within the capacity of anyone who can read instructions and handle a craft knife and file to fettle the parts off the sprues.  Not that there's much of this to do; the thing is very flash free and commendable for a tooling that's been around for more than half a century.

 

The thing referred to in the instructions, actually the first thing referred to, as an 'air tank' is what might be better known to you as a vacuum cylinder.  

 

When you come to glue the side frames to the floor, glue them with the inside edge aligned along the slightly raised line on the underneath of the floor.  This is not mentioned in the instructions but is necessary to accommodate the wheelsets without pinching them or carrying them too loosely.  I am not a fan of Dapol wheels, preferring Bachmann, but used the ones with the kit in this case because the end profile of the axles are slightly different, which may have led to trouble.  These Dapol wheelsets look a bit better than previous ones I had on a Fruit D which were nothing but trouble, and except for the actual axle ends seem very similar in profile to Bachmann's, so I'll give 'em a chance...

 

I could not see how the tension lock couplers supplied with the kit attach, and perhaps they were added after the instructions were printed. as this is another point they are a bit reticent about, and as my layout uses t/ls the 'Peco Type' as Airfix called them are no use.  I have glued Parkside NEM mounts to the floor.

 

Take care when aligning the buffers; another thing the instructions fail to mention is that the housings have a shortened rib which goes to the top when the piece is glued to the buffer beam.  This is so that a shunter or guard can place the shunting pole between the end of the rib and the collar at the end of the housing in order to lever upwards for uncoupling instanter couplings.

 

You can make the kit up with opening doors, and basic interior detail is featured, but I decided against this and glued mine in solidly, not wanting my trains brought to a stand because a signalman has seen a door open.  They can be glued at the hinges and at the bottom against the edge of the floor, which makes them pretty secure.

 

Kit took just over an hour to build, and I have a nice looking nice running little wagon.  I'll ultimately replace the buffers, which are a bit mushroomy, but they'll do for now.  Stopped for tea, now, and I'll prolly paint it later before going up the pub.

 

Next on the list is an Interfrigo, but I won't post about that unless it throws up new issues not covered here!

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