spikey Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 I've long fancied a Bachmann 4MT 2-6-0 but I'm always put off buying one because of that huge gap 'twixt cab and tender and the attendant difference in floor levels . Is it actually possible to close the gap so that the ensemble looks more prototypical, but will still negotiate 2nd radius curves? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 I don't have second radius curves, my minimum radius is 27 inches, but the answer for most locos to your question is usually "yes". On the 27'' radius my 76xxx closed up a lot and looks considerably better for it. If you have a similar loco, place it on your tightest curve and see how much space there is between loco and tender at the closest point between the two. This is the distance you can close up by altering the linkage between them. With many BR standards, and the LMS 43xxx, the impact is striking as the design does involve the two "knitting" together as it were. There are more elaborate options, analagous to the close coupling units now supplied with many RTR coaches, that allow the loco/ tender distance to vary according to the track profile. I've never had to resort to this, but possibly another contributor could elaborate from experience? John. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 (edited) Thanks John, but i'm after knowing how much you can close the gap on the Bachmann 4MT 2-6-0 with its differing floor levels. Edited February 14, 2020 by spikey 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 You can get both the Ivatt LMS 4MT and Riddles BR std 4MT 2-6-0s closed up to near prototype spacing using a simple drawbar and they will still negotiate R2. However, to achieve this will require permanent modification to whichever model you have, based on your own experiment. Ivatt. The drawbar supplied separates loco and tender by the width of the English Channel even on the closer spacing hole! First detach from the tender cab roof underside the separate piece that goes under the loco cab roof (good provision by Bachmann). Experiment with a replacement drawbar to achieve the minimum spacing to allow the loco around R2, and either drill a new hole in the original drawbar for this spacing or use the successful one you made. It may be advantageous to pull out the intermediate buffer representations on the tender dragbox but I doubt this will make any difference, the cab and tender roof are more likely to make contact well before these buffers foul. Then assess how much has to come off the top and leading edge of the removed piece from the tender cab roof underside to avoid fouling under the loco cab roof at the tightest location, and replace it. I had to thin down the top edge and round off the front corners significantly for the 24" minimum that small goods locos have to manage on my layout. Riddles. Bachmann provide a near correctly positioned spacing hole in the drawbar on this model, but you cannot use it as the blobby moulded on intermediate buffers won't allow the tender close enough! File them down to a millimetre proud of the front of the dragbox, and give it a try on your R2. May well need a little more taken off. Second John's suggestions, this is really worthwhile, and practically all RTR OO tender locos benefit significantly from the treatment. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: You can get both the Ivatt LMS 4MT and Riddles BR std 4MT 2-6-0s closed up to near prototype spacing using a simple drawbar and they will still negotiate R2 ... Thank you very much for that, which is exactly what I needed to know. Never having seen the model of the Riddles 4MT 2-6-0 in the flesh, so as to speak, I could see those roofs being a real PITA, so it's good to know that they're not. Looking at side view photos of the model though, the floor levels do seem weird. So does it all actually look OK then once the gap's closed up? Edited February 14, 2020 by spikey clarity Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 It immediately looks better. What you need to add is a 'fall plate' on the Ivatt. Most simply by making a fitted piece of thin plasticard which lies on the cab floor and projects to the tender step. More elaborate arrangements with chequer plate and cloth hinges and the like are optional. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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