Merlot Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Hi everyone, I'm assembling the "00" Dapol Presflo wagon kit using the supplied metal wheels. I've reamed the axle boxes to accept flangeless wheel bearings and am wondering how deep they should go or whether they should just be flush with the surface of the plastic. After much trial and error I've arrived at something which is a little too loose but does work ie; the bearings are sitting too deeply. I was expecting the body and frame to require a little fettling but they have been fine. The wheels which I thought would be a breeze are the issue. On grounds of cost I want to use these wheels rather than other makes, how ever good they may be. I understand from other pages that the brake shoes may need attention in order to fit and I'm fine with that. I'm looking to build a rake of these and maybe their tank wagon too - any advice would be very gratefully received! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nickey Line Posted February 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2020 Personally I would use shouldered bearings, either fitted into countersunk holes in the axle box, or packed out with fibre washers, as necessary. Incremental fettling is the order of the day! Though no doubt other methods are available... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlot Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 Cheers Adrian. This is sounding like proper modelling to me LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 (edited) The 'normal' dimensions for pin point axles are 26mm over pinpoints and 24mm between the inner faces of the axleguards. Not all components follow this, but I believe Gibson bearings do. I think Dapol axles are 26mm, but don't know for sure. (Different makes do vary - resolved in the next step.) I have built lots of the Airfix/Dapol mineral wagons, which have a similar assembly. I bore out the axleguards 2mm and then 1/8" to allow the bearing to recess in the back more or less flush, but the exact amount by trial and error. It's easier during assembly, but possible afterwards. I then Chamfer the edges of the axleguards to disguise the excessive thickness. I usually use 'top hat' bearings, but 'waisted' will do. Edited February 14, 2020 by Il Grifone 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlot Posted February 14, 2020 Author Share Posted February 14, 2020 Many thanks for this . I'm certainly enjoying this :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 I forgot to mention that play between bearing and axle should be minimal. The point of the axle should sit firmly in the bearing without slop. I try to ensure mine will start on a 1 in 100 incline. I weight them to about 30g (1 oz.). The brake gear I have not found a problem. I aim to set it to give clearance for EM gauge wheelsets anyway (maybe one day....). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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