Mystery Wagon W-Irons

[FraserClarke]

Does anyone recognise these W-Irons? I picked some up cheap from a second hand box.  They don't have any identifying numbers/names, and the etch/drawing quality is not brilliant (and no half-etched fold lines).  They are certainly rather old, and I wonder if they might even be 'home brew'. 

 

 

I can't quite figure out how the separate compensating - I presume - fittings are meant to work. Presumably they support a pivot through the central holes of one W-iron -- but then how to match the ride height with the other wheelset?  -- just with suitable packing perhaps?   I build most of my wagons without compensation anyway, so it's not really an issue -- but it would be interesting to know ! 

 

Thanks! 

[Miss Prism]

23 minutes ago, FraserClarke said:

but then how to match the ride height with the other wheelset?  -- just with suitable packing perhaps?

 

Yes, use packing and a buffer height setter.

 

They do look a bit homebrew - I can't recall any commercial ones with no half-etches for the main folds.

 

 

[Il Grifone]

I've got some like that I bought back in the '70s (EMGS?). One pair rocks on a pivot through the holes in the brackets. These are bent up at right angles and a piece of rod (paper clip IIRC) threaded through. A spot of solder holds it in place. The other pair are fixed to the floor with suitable packing. They can be bent easily with a good vice or decent pair of pliers. Four diagonal folds from the base of the axleguards to the bottom of the slot for the pivot reinforce the units. The two holes are for screws to secure the units. Obviously they have to be loosely screwed down on the floating unit and serve as guides to avoid the unit going skew.

[Compound2632]

The proportions look odd. Are they for broad (7 ft) gauge wagons?

[Il Grifone]

Since they're intended to sit well clear of the wagon floor, the W irons are a millimetre or so short of full length. The distance between them should be 24 mm. once folded up. The axle holes are intended to take 2mm. diameter 'top hat' bearings.

 

They're a generic 'RCH' axleguard, for which various white metal spring/axlebox units were (still are AFAIK) available

[Darren Hedges]

The V hangers for the brake levers are a nice bonus, even if they are a little rough in places....

Edited March 5, 2020 by Darren Hedges

[Il Grifone]

Scaling from my monitor, on which the etching appears roughly 1.5x actual size, the distance from the fold to the centre of the axle hole is 8mm, which would require about 2mm packing for a typical floor about 4 feet above rail level.

[DLT]

On 03/03/2020 at 14:08, FraserClarke said:

I can't quite figure out how the separate compensating - I presume - fittings are meant to work. Presumably they support a pivot through the central holes of one W-iron -- but then how to match the ride height with the other wheelset?  -- just with suitable packing perhaps?   I build most of my wagons without compensation anyway, so it's not really an issue -- but it would be interesting to know ! 

 

That's pretty much how they work, yes.  The etched slots at the top of the W-iron bit are the fold lines.  Presumably when they were done, that was easier than creating half-etched fold lines.

Cheers, Dave.

[FraserClarke]

8 hours ago, Il Grifone said:

Scaling from my monitor, on which the etching appears roughly 1.5x actual size, the distance from the fold to the centre of the axle hole is 8mm, which would require about 2mm packing for a typical floor about 4 feet above rail level.

 

Good scaling    I measured them this morning, and indeed as you suggest 24mm between centres once folded, and 8mm drop to the axle holes.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. I will report back when I find an evening to build a pair up :-\   I have a set of old Ian Kirk wagons I'm planning to use these on (from the same secondhand box).

 

[Il Grifone]

That sounds like a good buy!

 

A pair of mine sit under one of Ian Kirk's GWR vans which was intended to become a  fish van. Maybe one day it will...