Problem with acrylics over wilko primer

[ikcdab]

I am repainting some triang mk1 coaches into Caroline and cream.

I have rubbed down the coaches and primed with a wilko rattle can primer.

I don't know what this is but it says that it contains acetone and xylene.

So today I tried to spray humbrol acrylics, thinned with acrylic thinner.

What I got was a puddling, clearly the primer repelled the acrylics. Horrible result.

I have now cleaned off the acrylic with isopropanol.

What next? What can I use over the wilko primer to allow me to spray the acrylics?

[Darren Hedges]

You could try rubbing the primer back a little, to provide a better key for the acrylics. 

[ikcdab]

2 minutes ago, Darren Hedges said:

You could try rubbing the primer back a little, to provide a better key for the acrylics. 

Ok. I just tried by brush and it was ok.

Maybe washing it all off with ipa helped....

I'll try again.

[Darren Hedges]

1 minute ago, ikcdab said:

Ok. I just tried by brush and it was ok.

Is it possible you over thinned it the first time? 

 

Try misting over a very light coat first, wait for this to flash off, then build the coat up steadily using multiple light passes. 

[ikcdab]

6 hours ago, Darren Hedges said:

Is it possible you over thinned it the first time? 

 

Try misting over a very light coat first, wait for this to flash off, then build the coat up steadily using multiple light passes. 

Thanks. I think what happened is that handing made the sides greasy from finger prints which the thinned water-based paint objected to. Rubbing off the new paint with IPA removed the grease and applying the thin coats as you suggest worked well.

[Darren Hedges]

1 hour ago, ikcdab said:

Thanks. I think what happened is that handing made the sides greasy from finger prints which the thinned water-based paint objected to. Rubbing off the new paint with IPA removed the grease and applying the thin coats as you suggest worked well.

Ah yes, transfer of oils in the skin can cause issues.

 

I make it a rule that once washed and degreased, I never handle a model without gloves until painting is complete.

 

Packs of nitrile gloves can be bought quite cheaply, and I find that  I can reuse them many times before they eventually split.