Baseboard storage

[Clearwater]

Hi

 

For those who are not able to have a permanently assembled layout, how do you store it (particularly bearing in mind the sensitivities of domestic authorities)?  I’m contemplating my options and thinking about using. 4’ by 2’ sections. Any view of the pros / cons of different storage methods, how you keep them dust free etc would be much appreciated! Please note that I do not have a garage or a loft that could be used...  A small shed, unsuitable for a layout is a possibility.

 

Thanks

David

 

Mods: if this isn’t the right place, I won’t be offended if it’s moved!

[DCB]

Storing a layout isn't a huge issue usually, until you add scenery. My sons old double track oval OO board stands against the wall in the kitchen, forlorn forgotten and unloved because its only about 2" thick, something like 3/4" ply with 2" sides mounted centrally so its 1/2" below and 1/2" above the board. If you Use 2X1" framing and a few 8" high trees or buildings you have a different animal completely.  If you have a 4ft X 2ft 6" horizontal  area around 3ft high in your shed you can make a rack to store a 6X4 layout constructed of 3 off    2ft X4ft sections, or 4ft an 8X4, but how often you will bother to assemble it is a consideration.

Garden Layout?

[MartynJPearson]

I'll start with a disclaimer that this is based on an idea that has progressed no further, rather than practical experience, but thought I'd share anyway if it helps!

 

Ages ago I bought a wheeled plant pot mover (the sort of thing that looks like a circular skateboard) with the intention of using that as a base so that the layout could be stored in a manner that meant it could be easily moved. The idea would be that the layout boards - in my case, 4 foot long and 17 inches wide could be fastened together in some form that protects the scenery, then stored on their ends on the mover.

 

How that would be arranged would be down to how many boards you have, and of course you need to consider how much scenery there is. My thoughts were for two boards, make the backscene board fairly robust with holes aligned with the other board's frame, the idea being that the two "L" shapes of the boards could be bolted together to make a square. For three boards, where one board is the fiddle yard (no scenery), then use that as one side of the square, and a piece of timber on the opposite side of the square, with the backscenes of a height such that they don't foul each other.

 

Knocked up a diagram in Paint which hopefully helps! Only concern would be the stability of the base, but felt that could be rectified with more timber, removing the wheels from the mover and placing them further out.

 

[Clearwater]

@DavidCBroad we have a 6’ by 4’ which is stored exactly as you suggest and gets regular use.  It is non-scenic.  However, I’m looking to develop something more scenic hence the need for more careful storage.  You make a good point about how often will it come out.  I guess like others this period of isolation / lock down is causing me to think about many things!

[Sturminster_Newton]

The answer of course is to make it modular.

 

The Tom Horne Scenic box system is the way forward, best known, but not the only manufacturer of laser cut baseboard solutions to muddling dilemmas...Tom will also produce bespoke designs and adaptations of his basic modules.

 

In his book on small Layouts CJF has a couple of tail chasing layouts built either from four same size 3'x2' modules OR two matched and two unmatched modules 2of 4'x2' and 2off 4'x1'. Many of the larger designs in this booklet can be based upon multiples of the same basic units. Most of the designs use a nominal 15" radius so R2 should fit on most units without passing a sleeper's width from the edge of the baseboard

 

His Minories was designed so the the station throat folded back over the Terminal concourse for ease of storage. 2off 3'x2' when unfolded gave 6' x 2'.

 

Whatever you choose will occupy valuable real estate either in height or length in a hallway of behind the sofa when not in playing mode and that fact cannot be denied, the Domestic Permission Authorities will certainly kick off if the 'masking cabinetry' is not a match for her chosen decor or sheds endless muddling materials over the carpet.

 

Module sizes may end up being that best suited to passage through a loft hatch so 900-1200 x 450x 450 may in the end be that which can most easily be grappled into the space.

 

Model railways are space hungry, unless in the smallest gauge/scale is chosen and all will need tolerance and patience to operate within the internal domestic space.

[MartynJPearson]

What I was trying to describe with words and my woeful Paint skills has actually been done, here.

 

Thought I'd mention it in case it helped!

 

[The Black Hat]

Glad the build Im doing has helped. Don't forget the crate as shown isn't finished until the very end. Add the track and wiring and decoders etc that you will need to build first, then at the very end screw on another board of plywood on the box of the track boards, then you can protect all the wiring and its all easier to move. Using a series of male to female connecting strips allows quick connections of electrics and after that your ready to go!

If you follow my thread it will all be done there. Don't forget to measure everything your going to need so that you can get access into where it is to be stored. That means measuring doors and routes at home so your boards can easily be brought in.

 

PM me if you need advice - I'd be happy to help.

[johnb]

Think about the size of your boards, 4ft x 2ft is rather unwieldy to shift around when fully sceniced. It is also vulnerable to damage. Would you be moving it single handed?

 

I'm retired now and have to shift boards.  I went to a max of 4ft x 1ft simply because of weight and vulnerabilty to scenic damage. I use ply baseboards with no thicker than 9mm ply.