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First New Loco, Running In & Is this Normal?


chaplin
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Hi

 

So I'm just getting back into the hobby and have a few old Hornby and Lima locos bought from exhibitions etc. years ago I've converted a couple to DCC and they run ok. I decided however to by a brand new Bachmann Fairburn as a test loco for my new layout. I wanted a brand new one that I knew was running perfect so I could tell for definite that any issues were down to my track laying and not the old locos.

 

The Fairburn turned up and it looks great. It runs well when it's going but a lot of the time it doesn't start when I increase the power and needs a nudge to get moving. Once it's moving it's fine and will run slow but when it stops it needs a nudge about 50% of the time.

 

Having never bought a brand new loco i'm wondering whether this is just down to the fact that it's new and needs running in. Is this the case? If so what is the best way to do that? My layout is end to end and all track pieces are wired separately. My old Lima Deltic runs great everywhere and the electrofrog points are all wired correctly so it's down to the loco.

 

Also, one of the windows was out in the box. Whats the best glue to stick these back in?

 

Regards

 

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Running in is a normal process. Most locos seem to run perfectly out of the box, but some need half an hour or so in each direction to bed the gears in to make them smoother.

Needing a nudge to start is unusual, but don't dismiss it yet. Give it a gentle run in each direction before rejecting it & hopefully it will run nicely in a hour or so.

 

Avoid superglue at all costs. Its vapours will make the windows go cloudy. I prefer impact adhesive, but others may well prefer polystyrene cement.

 

I have 2 Bachmann Fairburns & they are nice looking models. One of mine shorts out on curves for some reason. I really must look into that problem.

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Are the wheels clean? I've had new locos that have some manufacturing residue on the wheels and pickups. So clean the wheels if you haven't already done so, then the track as gunge from the wheels will now be deposited on the track.

 

I use a rolling road to run stock in initially, then they will settle down in use.

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Guest Half-full

Clean the wheel treads, backs and pick-ups to remove any residue that may be lurking there.

 

I have an oval of old Hornby 3rd radius R609's and a few straights that I use to run stock in on, best investment I've made

 

To re-affix the window, avoid superglue or polystyrene cement - these will cloud the window.  Use some pva applied with a cocktail stick, or some enamel varnish, again applied with a cocktail stick

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  • RMweb Gold

I have successfully replaced loco windows with Glue'N'Glaze; I don't mean using the G&G to glaze the reveal, which I've also done, but as adhesive to replace the glazing that has fallen out.  G&G, I found by accident while attempting to use it to glaze an old K's A31 auto trailer, a task it is not designed for or capable of successfully doing, that it creates a very good impression of semi-opaque polythene sheeting of the sort you sometimes see in the windows of semi derelict buildings or coaches on preserved railways that are awaiting restoration.  I have no use for this on a 1950s layout, but modellers of later periods may find this information of some value.  It even flaps realistically in a gentle draught as if blown by wind.

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