Bachmann Class 45 drive rod refitting - Now not moving

[ISW]

I have a Bachmann Class 45 (model 32-677A) that derailed recently. During the derailment one of the drive rods to a bogie became disengaged. Can anyone point me to a repair guide / video showing the steps to access and refit the drive rod?

 

I have downloaded the Service Sheet from Bachmann and it looks like I need to remove the main circuit board to permit removal of the main metal chassis. Are the wires to/from the circuit board long enough to permit this or do I have to unsolder the red & black wires to the bogies?

 

Edited July 20, 2020 by ISW
update

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Nothing as extensive as that. Release and remove body. Undo bogie pivot screw. Ina  controlled fashion, allow bogie to drop out of chassis sufficiently that the drive shaft can be relocated in the flywheel coupler (if necessary). Offer the coupler on the bogie wormshaft to the drive shaft end, and then relocate bogie pivot. Replace pivot screw and body.

[ISW]

10 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Nothing as extensive as that. Release and remove body. Undo bogie pivot screw. Ina  controlled fashion, allow bogie to drop out of chassis sufficiently that the drive shaft can be relocated in the flywheel coupler (if necessary). Offer the coupler on the bogie wormshaft to the drive shaft end, and then relocate bogie pivot. Replace pivot screw and body.

34C

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it go and hopefully get the loco working again. Glad it's not as complicated as I thought.

What concerns me is that the loco wouldn't move after the derailment, and it really should have, if it was only the drive rod misplaced. The other bogie should have worked.

[John Tomlinson]

The bogie without the driveshaft attached is jammed, as the worm stops the wheels from turning. So it acts as a brake.

 

Unless you've really tried to run it for a long time in this condition, you should be OK.

 

The action described by 34B-D can be a bit of a fiddle, once you've got the hang of it you'll be good to go for ever more!

 

John.

[cheesysmith]

Also, a pair of tweesers recomended for holding the drive shaft as you try to get it to engauge in the cups on the flywheels and bogie tower. 

[ISW]

With thanks to those above I managed to relocate the drive rod into its correct position. It was actually disconnected at the motor end and not the bogie. Tweezers were an essential part of the repair!

 

So, I had the loco reassembled and it was working again just fine; for about 10-minutes. Then it stopped responding to the controller. I even hit the STOP button on the DCC controller but the loco kept moving. I cut the power to the controller and the loco stopped, predictably. However, once power was restored the loco wouldn't move.

 

I put it on the programming track and fiddled with the CVs (in JMRI DecoderPro) and nothing strange happened. The loco even moves forward during the programming, just as they always do. But application of power resulted in no movement. I set CV8 to 8 (reset), but that didn't help either. The chip is a Lenz Silver 21.

 

I don't think the DCC chip is fried as all the CVs read and write properly. The motor 'works' as it moves during programming. So why won't the loco respond to the controller?

 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Try another reset, and then test the loco tomorrow. I have had this experience of resets needing time to 'take'. Cannot explain it, but this was suggested to me by a German dealer at my start of using DCC, and it has served me well over the years.

[ISW]

16 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Try another reset, and then test the loco tomorrow. I have had this experience of resets needing time to 'take'. Cannot explain it, but this was suggested to me by a German dealer at my start of using DCC, and it has served me well over the years.

34C

 

Thanks, I'll give that a go. In the meantime I did establish that the motor is working as I used a DCC blanking plate and fed ~5v DC to the wheels and the motor worked perfectly.

 

[ISW]

Well, that's certainly very odd. I reset the Lenz but still now joy. I replaced the Lenz Silver 21 with an 8-pin DCC (using a converter board) and the loco worked perfectly. I put the Lenz back and this time it showed up as being reset. Hurrah. It now worked again, and I restored it's settings and now it's back to 'normal'. All very strange.