DCC Fitting Hornby Class 47 (R2480) circa 2005

[netutgamer]

Looking for some help and would be super grateful if anyone could steer me in the right direction.

 

I've been working through some of my late 2000s models and converting them to DCC so they can come out to run with my modern DCC locos. I've so far found this fairly straight forward. Most of the upgrades have been to simple ringfield motor locos like the Hornby Class 87. The upgrade was straight forward and the locos have been running brilliantly.

 

Opening my Class 47 I have got the modifciation bug and with so much room in the body of this one I'm looking to add cab lights and the correct running lights to this one but it's got me stumped before I even get that far. It ran fantastically on DC the model was pretty much in mint condition.

I found this guide here https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1306 but it appears to be for a much older loco than the one I have, this model doesn't have any head code bulbs or associated wiring. I checked the wheels at the drive end before I started and the traction tyres appear to be insulated. And it's not a live chassis (checking the service sheet )

 

This is my work in progress (attached photos), unlike the other locos I've worked on so far there are 3 power pickup wires for positive and negative, so instead of joining the usual two together to provide power to the decoder I joined all three.

Orange and Grey to the motor feeds as usual but no joy.

I'm guessing I've cooked my first decoder, but what have. done wrong? Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Edited February 9, 2021 by netutgamer
correcting URL

[RAF96]

Deja vu

I have just answered this on another forum.

[netutgamer]

hehe, yes was trying in two places in case of a different audience in different forums. But appreciate there will be some cross over.

Thank you for your other post.

I've had the multimeter out and worked down then loco doing continuity checks along the wheels and motor chassis. 100% no continuity between left/right wheels, or across the motor or rear bogie wheels so everything is connected the right way round.

Have checked the screw holding down part 14 in the service sheet. Everything there is pretty much coated in a black insulator by Hornby so not easy to get a contact, but there's no continuity between left/right and the screw. Or any of the motor and the wheels.

[RAF96]

Try replacing the motor with a 12 volt low wattage car bulb or led and resistor for now. This will eliminate the motor.

Then I can only think to disconnect the dummy bogie and see if the short is still there or gone.

Take it from there one step at a time, with everything disconnected and reintroduced one by one.