Marmight Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) I need to replace the single motor on my O gauge 2 Rail RS3. This is the Pitman single motor with chain drive type. What it the best way to remove the flywheel and universal joint from the motor and is it best to remove the motor from the chassis before doing the job? Cheers Martin Edited April 4, 2021 by Marmight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 I replaced the Pittman motor in my Weaver Geep with a Canon FN30. I used a wheel & gear puller to get the flywheel off the Pittman, and a bench vice to press it home on the Canon shaft. Yes remove the motor to do it, much easier!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) Thanks for the info. I thought I’d need a gear puller...now where did I put mine?. Does the cardan shaft and UJ need to be removed first? If so, how easy is it, I’m worried about breaking it... Cheers Martin Edited April 4, 2021 by Marmight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 As far as I recall the plastic uj came out with the flywheel. Remove the shaft and the middle connecting bit (there must be a proper name??!!) first so the gear puller can seat on the motor shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 I’ve just had a little poke around and the rear shaft has come away leaving the yolk attached to the flywheel end. So I’ll remove the yolk, that’s the little piece that’s shaped like a cross and leave the end joint close to the flywheel. I can’t find my puller, no idea when it last got used, so I’ll have to get one from eBay... Cheers Martin 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 The Weaver drive parts are very similar to Central Loco Works drives of old. I have spares of many of the components. They're very satisfying to work with! Jason 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 Update..... I managed a couple of hours in the workshop this afternoon, applied the running numbers to the second F9 the line has and then the thoughts turned to the errant RS3! I’ve bought a fairly heavy duty gear puller from the bay, with narrow grips to get behind the flywheel. I had to place the puller in a bench vice as the force required to move the flywheel was something my hands could cope with...I’m not getting any younger and the hands cannot grip like they used to. So turning the screw and ...ping...that’s the end of the cardan shaft broken into several pieces. In the end, I had to tighten the vice really tight and use a long screwdriver as a lever to get the flywheel off. There was so much pressure involved that the legs of the puller had to be levered apart with a tyre lever. That might have been some overkill, but it was the only way I could think off to separate them. Tomorrow, order a new cardan shaft... Fortunately I had a scrap 4 wheel chassis spare, which happened to have a very good Canon FN30 motor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Marmight said: I’ve bought a fairly heavy duty gear puller from the bay, with narrow grips to get behind the flywheel. I had to place the puller in a bench vice as the force required to move the flywheel was something my hands could cope with...I’m not getting any younger and the hands cannot grip like they used to. So turning the screw and ...ping...that’s the end of the cardan shaft broken into several pieces. In the end, I had to tighten the vice really tight and use a long screwdriver as a lever to get the flywheel off. There was so much pressure involved that the legs of the puller had to be levered apart with a tyre lever. That might have been some overkill, but it was the only way I could think off to separate them. Sorry to hear you had that much trouble!! It was nowhere near as fraught an operation when I did it. The only time I used my bench vice was to press the flywheel on to the Canon motor shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 It had to happen, the motor was shorting under load, so I had no real choice. It’s done now and replacement cardan shafts have been ordered. Cheers Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 22, 2021 Author Share Posted April 22, 2021 The Weaver RS3 remotoring saga continues. The motor is now fitted, new universal join fitted, the motor shaft is 4mm diameter and investment found some RC car and truck supplier who supply updated joints. A bit of judicious bending took place... This now runs great, except the rear bogie, not the motor end, has a problem where it binds and makes the locomotive jerk... Has anyone got a rear unpowered RS3 bogie for sale? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP9u Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 Good to hear it runs well. You probably don't need a complete truck. If the jerk is once per wheel rev then it's likely a split axle gear - a common problem with these drives. Jason might have some spares. If the jerk is regular but more frequent it's more likely a split chain sprocket. Also try Jason. Pete 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 I suspect it’s the split axle gear. I’ve uncoupled the lower shaft so the bogie is not connected to the drive and turned the bogie end shaft. By marking the wheel and turning the shaft, it catches in one spot only. I will have to dismantle the bogie to find out. When you say Jason, is that Jason D, or another Jason? Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP9u Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 OK makes sense! Yes, Jason D. If not, then hopefully someone on here in the UK has a spare. Otherwise I think P&D used the same type, Jason D will know. Hopefully they have some stock left. Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 Ok, thanks Pete. I’ll dismantle the bogie over the weekend and see what is what. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 Hi Pete, it's the regular jerk here. I'm getting the Weaver spares box out for Martin on Sunday. Got many bits from P&D at the Chicago meet, hope they continue with that. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP9u Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 LOL Jason! Not sure what that makes me then, as your Ow5 disciple for almost 25 years... I'd bet you have more than a few gears or axle/wheel sets in your treasure trove. But if not, I must have a set somewhere. So if you and Martin get totally stuck, LMK and I'll dig it out and pop it in the post. Might take a while though, knowing Canada Post at the moment. Yes, I hope we can get to another March Meet soon. Pete 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Thanks guys, really appreciate your help. Cheers Martin PS, took the bogie off this morning, really surprised at how easy it is to take apart. Not removed the gearbox casings yet, that will be later after SWAMBO’s chores are done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Dismantled the bogies and both rear axles have split gears. If that’s the case, I know the front two are ok, but for how long? Maybe as a precaution I need to replace all four? Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 Despite trying numerous different gearsets, none of which worked to any great effect, I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered a set from NWSL. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 Which NWSL part no Martin? Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 This is the one they recommended Jason... https://nwsl.com/products/geared-wheelset-o-40-145-1-8-x-1-810-shouldered-axle-weaver-rs3-fa-gp38-upgrade-geared-wheelsets-4 Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Yes, that's the type with the most forgiving wheel profile (145). I have the original worm-wheel gear for a fiver, inc. postage, but it needs fitting. The NWSL set of 4 is probably nicer to look at, but add on the shipping. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmight Posted June 2, 2021 Author Share Posted June 2, 2021 If the worm wheel gear is still on offer Jason, I’ll take it off your hands? cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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