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Remotoring the original Hornby APT


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🖖👌🤘🖐️🖐️ "I'm new here"

 

Hi, been lurking and reading RMWeb for a while, just wondered whether anyone could help me with the concept of putting a new motor (for DC) running in an original Hornby APT. I'm assuming it's been done before with CAN motors etc but wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction of a suitable kit, 3D print bracket? Got myself a bit of a good looking dud so would like to take the opportunity to get it running with gusto. No, I don't have £585 for a new one either 🤣

 

Thanks in advance

Matt

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I have a couple of these that I occasionally toy with - the motor is essentially just a Hornby Ringfield design, which I guess could be replaced with the usual CD motor / adaptor assembly as necessary ( eg strathpefferjunction ringfield conversions ) - should say as a disclaimer, I haven't done it as I've always tried to keep mine original ( and all the issues that brings ). 

 

Should also say that the APT motor bogie does have a little variation to the other Bo-Bo and Co-Co motor bogies, so I'm not sure which kit would be most suitable.

 

I'm sure I've read about the (centre ) power car also being fitted can motors and driven through cardan shafts, but searching RM at the moment isn't always successful..

No.121 BR APT-P Power Car.pdf

Edited by steviesparx
Found service sheet
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Bingo! Thanks, using the service sheet I just saw a piece that is missing from my motor bogie - the insulator between the silver bits on the back of the motor and the metal boogie frame. That could well explain the hesitant running I’ve got at the moment.

 

Still keen to hear from anyone that has completed a CAN motor upgrade as I feel the need. The need for speed!

 

Matt 

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5 hours ago, mattyr said:

Bingo! Thanks, using the service sheet I just saw a piece that is missing from my motor bogie - the insulator between the silver bits on the back of the motor and the metal boogie frame. That could well explain the hesitant running I’ve got at the moment.

 

Yes, the insulator stops the brush holders from touching the metal bogie - Any contact will cause a short, rather than hesitant running I suggest, but a step in the right direction....

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8 hours ago, steviesparx said:

 

Yes, the insulator stops the brush holders from touching the metal bogie - Any contact will cause a short, rather than hesitant running I suggest, but a step in the right direction....


 Would  explain the blip on power when it tilts and makes the contact! And the nudge separating the brush holder from the metal bogie temporarily 😂🤪. I’ll report the results when I have those brush holders fully insulated! Thanks again - would still like to put a nice CAN motor in her though.

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On 15/04/2022 at 08:18, mattyr said:

Still keen to hear from anyone that has completed a CAN motor upgrade as I feel the need. The need for speed!

Matt,

 

I've retrofitted quite a few of my old Lima and Hornby locomotives (that I bought back in the 1980s!) with CD-ROM motors. It's not that difficult actually. Here's a couple of photos of a Lima refit:

20210509_162242_resize.jpg.923a1a6df698883aeec38e16fdb3e070.jpg

 

20210509_162303_resize.jpg.66fbeadef198a3e71acd49996d14d0ec.jpg

 

Note that all I did to 'install' the CD-ROM motor was to use hot glue. No fancy 3D printed brackets.

 

With a Lima loco you do need to purchase the pinion gear that fits on the end of the motor drive, and cut it to the correct length. The ones you buy are too 'long'. Mine came in bag with the CD-ROMs, but that's not always the case. There are some numbers on the bag, but as it's from 2019 I can't see them being any use in a Google search.

 

For a Hornby loco you need to reuse the metal pinion gear from the ringfield motor. It's a loose fit on a CD-ROM motor, and so needs care to centralise while using superglue (taking care to ensure the glue does not go inside the CD-ROM motor!).

 

There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing the process, which is where I learnt from.

 

As to speed, yes a CD-ROM fitted loco can go very quickly because the motors are typically 6v not 12v types. I use them on DCC with the motor voltage limited using the relevant Cv (s). They are much better as slow speed movement.

 

Ian

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Thanks all, happy to report, the APT is back in action after a rewire and a CAN (CD Rom) motor upgrade.

 

Needed some nice fresh traction tyres mind you.......perhaps next is to LED the headlights and maybe stick some red LED tail lights in.

 

Excuse the messy track! 

 

Matt 

 

 

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