Deltic Man Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hi I have a limited edition 2-8-0 in longmoor blue but I cannot for the life of me get the body off the chassis. Can any tell me how this is done is there a hidden screw or lug? Thanks Nik Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hi I have a limited edition 2-8-0 in longmoor blue but I cannot for the life of me get the body off the chassis. Can any tell me how this is done is there a hidden screw or lug? Thanks Nik Hi Nik, I have a stripped down photo of a WD, sadly as i'm not at home at the moment i have no access to my PC for more photos, but I do have step by step photos at home of how to remove the body and fit DCC. But by the look of the photo should just be three screws and the pony truck screw to remove, but the body can be tight on the chassis. http://www.galleryroy.fotopic.net/p61397389.html Regards Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltic Man Posted June 19, 2010 Author Share Posted June 19, 2010 Cheers Roy will try this afternoon, I think I have missed a screw somewhere Nik Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Hopefully you have the diagram, if not http://www.Bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/32-250.pdf Three screws on the underside to remove, the one right at the front labelled 250-009, under the pony truck (you may want to take the pony truck off for ease of access), the one in the centre of the coupled wheelbase, 250-139, and the one at the rear, 150-131, for which you need to hinge the vacuum brake cylinder tackle representation out of the way to get access. Ease out the cab handrails from the holes in the cabside, as these link body and chassis. Now the chassis is free to be removed, but probably will not move easily. The mechanism is usually a snug fit, but not tight in the body; it is usually the part 250-005 which is immediately above the second coupled wheels which protrudes through two rectangular holes in the footplate, where the bind occurs. Give the curved links of this part that stick up through the holes in the footplate some encouragement to push through the holes, and the chassis should come free. It is never as difficult after the first time, but I have opened out the holes in the footplate on one of mine to make this job a little easier in future. (Should you be taking the body off to fit a decoder, there is no space as the model is supplied. Whip off the circuit board and the plastic tray to which it is screwed from the top of the motor bracket, and there's the space to hardwire a decoder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hi Again, Finally home and added a photo of a WD 2-8-0. I have pointed out the screws required to be removed to allow the splitting of the chassis/body. http://galleryroy.fotopic.net/p65641149.html Regards Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilwell Park Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hi Thanks very much, I was about to ask the same question myself. Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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