Stainless steel vehicles

[jjb1970]

What do people find most convincing to replicate stainless steel vehicles? I don't think it is that relevant in British outline, but overseas there have been quite a lot of stainless steel bodies for trains which were left unpainted. I've never managed to find a truly convincing way to replicate the effect in model railway form and paints always seem to look more like silver paint than bare metal. I have seen finishes used for bare metal aircraft that are very convincing, in some cases using metal leaf and in others applying a paint which is then polished, I'm not sure either technique would be viable for a model locomotive or coach. Just curious as to whether any RMWeb'ers have given any thought to this one.

[APOLLO]

Never tried it but in an American model mag a while ago someone suggested "burnishing" a layer of thin kitchen foil over an existing coach model.

 

Brit15

[Bernard Lamb]

I would have thought that nickel silver and stainless steel look very similar in their natural state.

You just need to be very neat with your soldering.

Bernard

[jjb1970]

I tried using metal foil on plastic aircraft, it can look very effective but I think it would be challenging to do a locomotive or coach given all the details and bumps etc. I was thinking more about plastic than metal kits, but it is also a problem with kits as most are multi-media to some extent and surface finish is critical. The best I have seen are plated factory built brass models but that's an expensive option.

[jonhall]

For my scratchbuilt silver bullet tanks I used two techniques which worked equally well.

 

The first was a model aircraft product called alclad (there are various versions depending in what finish you want). You need to spray the model with a high gloss black coat, and then airbrush over the top with the alclad at close range - this looks awful initially - the metal particles swim about in the solvent on the model, and you have time to think 'oh no! what have I done?' but then the solvent flashes off and you get a good 'chrome' finish.

 

The easier method is using a plasticote chrome/silver effect aerosol, which worked really well.

 

Jon

[fulton]

Have not tried on model railways, but have had good results on model aircraft using Alclad paints, must be sprayed, must follow all the preparation steps, its a complete paint system, preparation is everything as the smallest blemish will stand out. Was pleased with the results of an American etched stainless steel signal gantry kit, soldered using Carrs brown label flux, left unpainted.

[jjb1970]

Is alclad one of the paints which requires polishing? A few years ago I used a paint for bare metal parts of aircraft which when applied looked like any other silver paint but it was designed to be polished after application, after which it looked much more realistic.

[Wheatley]

Humbrol did a 'Metalcote' range a few years ago which required polishing, can't remember if Alclad needs it or not. Alclad is terrifying stuff to use the first time, as Jon says you look at it thinking 'Arghhhhh!' and it all works out fine.  

 

Hannants of Lowestoft will sell you Alclad but it can only be delivered by courier. They stock Bare Metal Foil too but only chrome and aluminium at the moment:

 

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ALC115?result-token=pDMF3

[ianLMS]

Polished aluminium would probably give pretty good results as a stainless steel body. BSL/Phoenix used Aluminium for their kit coaches and I have built several of them. A bit of Belgum Alloy cleaner and they would buff up a treat! 

[fulton]

4 hours ago, jjb1970 said:

Is alclad one of the paints which requires polishing? A few years ago I used a paint for bare metal parts of aircraft which when applied looked like any other silver paint but it was designed to be polished after application, after which it looked much more realistic.

My experience was I was happy with the results with just spraying, but have read of people polishing it. As I said Alclad is a paint system, you need to follow all the steps for good results, also follow all the health and safety advice, I used a spray booth and wore a 3M mask.

[Steadfast]

Another vote for Alclad. No need to burnish it.

https://alclad2.com/

It's a while since I've used them, but I'm pretty sure it's only the high gloss ones that need the black undercoat. Colours such as "white aluminium " should be OK without it

 

Correct. From their website:

English Directions for Plastic Models

APPLICATION GUIDE-PLASTIC MODELS:

For use on injection plastic kits a primer is necessary. ‘Regular ALCLAD’ is similar in strength to lacquer/cellulose car paints-injected polystyrene plastics frequently have areas which ALCLAD can craze. High-Shine ALCLAD finishes require a glossy base coat.

 

Jo

Edited September 15, 2022 by Steadfast

[34101]

Alclad II brand has split from its UK producer who are based in Norfolk.

The trademark agreement has reached its end.

The product is now marketed under the HR Hobbies brand, still produced in Norfolk.

 

You could also look at AK's Extreme Metal paint - the military modellers seem to really like it, and it is buffable like the old Humbrol metal paints.