luke_stevens Posted December 3, 2022 Share Posted December 3, 2022 Measuring, sketching, drawing and drafting the chassis onto a piece of 1mm plasticard. First draft because I can see mistakes I've made :) Luke 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium maridunian Posted December 3, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 3, 2022 (edited) It's obviously a bit of a headache! 😉 Edited December 3, 2022 by maridunian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted December 4, 2022 Share Posted December 4, 2022 40 minutes ago, maridunian said: It's obviously a bit of a headache! 😉 Yes, but I'm sort of enjoying it! I don't want this project to stumble at this stage so I'm going to keep going on a couple of ideas :) Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 (edited) Just in case any one thought I'd given up... 1) The most complex part was using the Olfa circle cutter to get a "hole" of exactly 17mm diameter for the truck bearings. I had several just under and a couple just over. In the end I has two that were correct. I then stuck one upside down... The rest of the chassis is 1.5mm sheet and lost of 1.5mm square strip. There will be some 1.5mm by 1.0mm strip to cover the gap above the bogies (not visible in this photo). I'd ordered a replacement motor 1420 and a couple of replacement flywheels, but the flywheels (upper right) don't have the correct indent for the cardan shaft coupling so I'm going back to the original Piko flywheels. I will be dropping the motor in the chassis so that I can fit the cardan shaft as straight and level as possible. Slow and steady progress... 2) A little jig to show me where the bottom of the chassis need to now exceed so that the body shell sits correctly, and to ensure that ti doesn't sit too high. Both parts need final trimming :) Edited December 28, 2022 by luke_stevens 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 (edited) And the photo that I assumed I'd taken and posted but hadn't... 3) Hopefully this will make things a little clearer. The only essential dimension is the diameter of the hole for the truck bearing. Everything else can be adjusted, modified or bodged to fit. And as for where they are positioned? The centre-to-centre for the tracks are not "scale-correct" but calculated so the axle of the front truck to the axle of the rear truck is correct scale distance. This means that the trucks will actually turn and not hit the body shell. Once again I'd rather have a chassis that works than one that is scale-correct but doesn't... Edited December 28, 2022 by luke_stevens 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 The chassis now has both bearing circles, and has had another 1.5mm sq strip to bring the bottom of the chassis to the bottom of the body casting. I've also filled in so of the area at the ends. In the middle is a cradle to hold the motor at the correct height. It isn't at the right yet and will need a little packing. The next major step is going to be cutting back the excess motor shaft. My worry is to trim it too far, though it's more likely I'll end up under trimming... 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 And a side view. Yes, the truck on the right is more inset that I'd intended, no I'm not going to change it :) I'll use it as the end to fit a coupling... All the striations will be hidden by the body shell. The bottom of cab window level is above the top of the frame, just below the level of the gear tower, which means it's probably behind the cab bulkhead. Luke 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 6, 2023 Share Posted January 6, 2023 First ever trial with motor! I haven't connected the cardan shafts, the motor isn't fixed (and I think it need to move a bit to the left, and the motor may be a bit low but it the motor fits in the chassis, it doesn't rub and it picks up via the wheels! The most stressful element was fitting the flywheels to the motor shafts without buggering it all up. It came close to going wrong but I was lucky. I'll up load a photo of the jig I built to help and explain what almost went wrong tomorrow... But for today I'm happy! Luke 4 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 As promised: 1) The jig. The idea is that it hold the flywheel just far enough from the motor bearing that it don't get gunked up when using Loctite 603 to fix the flywheel to the motor shaft. 2) Motor in jig. The problem I had is that I forgot that the is movement of the shaft within the motor and I came very close to fixing the flywheel slap bang against the motor bearing when the shaft "pulled back". Quick twist and reposition and all is well. 3) There is about 5mm between the cardan shaft coupling and flywheel at one end and about 8mm at the other. Once I've replaced the cardan shaft couplings within the flywheel I remeasure and balance them evenly. I'll probably have to replace the chassis stringers. Luke 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 Turns out I'm not going mad! I was perplexed that sometimes every thing would fit and sometimes it wouldn't. Now I see why: the cardan shaft coupling is at a different position for each truck. I will now have to "decided" which is best where and stick to it so I can tweak everything into place properly. Luke 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Balanced! Turns out I had to swap the trucks end to end as the motor wouldn't cleanly fir the the motor bracket cleanly the other way round. Between each of the cardan shaft coupling there is about 5.5mm. The mottos has about a 0.75mm end to end slop but it doesn't happen when the motor is running so things are stable. I've packed the height of the motor so the shaft better aligns with gear towers. I think it is a fraction too high but that shouldn't be an issue. Next stage will be to replace the red wire that went missing from the right hand truck... The drops the shafts in and see what happens under power. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 9, 2023 Share Posted January 9, 2023 And she runs! Well sort of. She is very happy going back and forth but she does not like the idea of curves, The right had truck is more resistant than the left hand truck which is very happy to turn clockwise, not so much to turn anticlockwise. Both are happy to move up and down, just a little. Without the bogie retaining clips both bogies rotate happily and at the moment the only things the bogie retaining clips touch is the bogie bearing surfaces. Time to do some more investigation and then some filing... 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
natterjack Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Just a thought, but are you getting interference on curves between motor shaft and the end of the U/J body which a little countersinking might remedy? I might have missed this but are the motor shafts telescopic (something has to accommodate changes in geometry on curves- even if it is back and forth movement of the bogies or longitudinal tolerance in the U/Js)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 5 hours ago, natterjack said: Just a thought, but are you getting interference on curves between motor shaft and the end of the U/J body which a little countersinking might remedy? I might have missed this but are the motor shafts telescopic (something has to accommodate changes in geometry on curves- even if it is back and forth movement of the bogies or longitudinal tolerance in the U/Js)? Thanks for the thought; I will check again! I am using the original cardan shafts and connectors provided by Piko in the original model. There is about 1mm slop in the shafts between the cardan couplings. I have given the bogies about 0.5mm vertical tolerance as I thought this might be the issue but it isn't. There is also tolerance at the end of the bogies to the frame. Question: If the bogie retaining clip isn't touching the frame then why is there resistance to rotating that isn't there when the clip isn't there? There is clearly something going on that I haven't noticed / realised / considered! Any other suggestions would be appreciated! Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Lifted the motor and removed the cardan shafts but kept the bogie clip covers in place: no improvement, so not the cardan shafts. But is now obvious what it is... Carefully looking whilst turning the bogies revealed that the edges of the bogie frame clips were clashing with the chassis side frame. So out with the scalpel and fine files... Over-trimmed I'm sure but it's looking good on this end... All fine now, perfectly happy to go round Hornby R1 (267mm ) TT track :) I might slightly fill the edge of the gap with 1.0mm by 1.5mm strip rather than the 1.5mm by 1.5mm I'd used previously, but will be very careful this time :) Luke 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
natterjack Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 Hopefully 'on topic', does anybody have a link to illustrations of Arnold TT spare parts? The Hornby Arnold site lists a range of interesting drive units and bogies but with nothing other than stock reference numbers with no apparent cross reference to their range of locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rekoboy Posted January 11, 2023 Share Posted January 11, 2023 (edited) The best source of original Arnold and Hornby-Arnold spares that I have encountered is this website - www.arnold-ersatzteile.de If you follow the link you will see on the left-hand column 'Arnold ET früher' for original Arnold parts, then 'Arnold ET heute' for Hornby-Arnold. If you click on those words they will expand downwards into a list of HN...product numbers. Click on one of those and on the right you will see a list of BLUE product numbers from which you can call up an exploded diagram of each (!) Arnold model plus parts list and download it as a PDF! Highly recommended! Edited January 11, 2023 by rekoboy 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 (edited) Progress... It still runs, reasonable smoothly and quietly so I thought I should look into fitting the body. Very much first steps with temporary hand carved supports that are a bit off square, which is why the model is off centre too... 1)Temporary, but in about the right sort of place with the right sort of shape... 2) A little drunk. No doubt some Somerset scrumpy from a Bristol - Brighton working... 3) Looks good from the side. I'm now measuring up the fuel tank dimensions and looking into possible speakers... Luke Edited January 14, 2023 by luke_stevens 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
britishcolumbian Posted January 14, 2023 Author Share Posted January 14, 2023 Progressing nicely! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 This is just a proof of concept! The Next18 decoder is attached to a Lais Next18 socket with lots of flying leads taking up much to much room! https://www.roads-and-rails.co.uk/collections/accessories/products/next18-socket-with-solder-tabs The speaker "as" the fuel tank will get a much better enclosure and the wires will be trimmed to the actual length needed not the "about 3 inches" they currently are. There will also be a Youchoos LifeLink and some capacitors to improve contact. https://www.youchoos.co.uk/Index-Shop.php?CAT=StayAlive At the moment there isn't a lot of traction as it is particularly light. weight will come later... It's currently using the sound files from a German Br 218 diesel. I will get a decoder with the correct sound files once I've been paid! 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 Building a speaker into the fuel tank sub frame :) I've had a chat with Richard from Road and Rails and he can do me a Next18 decoder with a Jamie Goodman Cl 33 sound file, so all is looking good! https://www.roads-and-rails.co.uk/collections/diesel-dcc-sound-decoders/products/loksound-5-decoder-for-Heljan-class-33 Luke 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
britishcolumbian Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 Sweet. Looks like it's getting tantalisingly close! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 10 hours ago, britishcolumbian said: Sweet. Looks like it's getting tantalisingly close! Thanks! My major concern is the painting. I'm ok-ish with an air brush so have no worries about the base white coat, no the overall pre-85 warning panel yellow. I'm concerned about being able to correctly mask an apply the BR blue. Patience and care I suppose. And no, I'm not going to make it overall BR green with decals for the white lining! Luke 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
britishcolumbian Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 50 minutes ago, luke_stevens said: And no, I'm not going to make it overall BR green with decals for the white lining! It's all good, my 22 will be green. Fingers crossed, I should have time to get started tomorrow evening! I'm already contemplating ordering an AC railcar shell. The DR railbus made by BTTB can be had for a dime a dozen, so I'll get one of those to see about powering it, and if that's successful I'll invest in a new Tillig equivalent. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 5 minutes ago, britishcolumbian said: It's all good, my 22 will be green. Fingers crossed, I should have time to get started tomorrow evening! I'm already contemplating ordering an AC railcar shell. The DR railbus made by BTTB can be had for a dime a dozen, so I'll get one of those to see about powering it, and if that's successful I'll invest in a new Tillig equivalent. Trying desperately NOT to order anything until the 33 is finished! Don't want to get distracted :) Luke 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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