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TT-Pete

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  • Location
    Shaftesbury
  • Interests
    Trains!

    Both 1:1 scale and model. Main line, preserved, steam, diesel, electric, UK and abroad, anything that has wheels and runs on rails - all good! :-)

    Modelling - mainly TT both UK 1:101 and Continental 1:120 scale after coming back to them from OO/HO in 1999;

    But changing circumstances mean I've come over all a bit HO Luxembourgish of late...

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  1. At one point on the Sunday a spectator leaned in and asked me "Is that a codeword?" as every time something went wrong we were yelling "Gordon!!"
  2. Fortunately help is at hand: And although I am pretty sure these have been out of production for some years, they can often be found in the 3mm Society 2nd hand sales, from whence I have amassed a sizeable stock, in fact there were some at the AGM sales last weekend but I didn't bother with them as that would just be being greedy... 😁 We await the pictures of your first retro GEM whitemetal J50 (or 57xx) on Tri-ang Jinty chassis and wagon kit builds. 😄 Good man. The 2nd hand team are very good and worth a chat as they will have most of what you need at very reasonable prices and will keep an eye open for items you want if not currently in stock. Cheers, Peter.
  3. Ooooo, I missed that!! Thanks!
  4. I have a thin piece of neoprene rubber (like what diving dry suits are made out of) that I place on things when using impact engineering techniques, doesn't deaden the blow too much but protects the thing being hit...
  5. Definately posted in the right place! Good luck on your 3mm journey and welcome to the fraternity. 😃 As @TT100 Diesels says above I wrote the following article a while back about how to re-wheel Tri-ang stock with metal wheelsets and pin-point bearings: The alternative is to use PTFE sleeves and pin axles, I have bought wagons with these from the Society 2nd hand shop in the past, but to be honest found the running to not be that much better than the originals - plastic wheels are plastic wheels - so ended up re-wheeling them like above anyway. As for the coaches, there are 2 types, the first have a retaining screw holding the roof on, look underneath and see if there is a screw head visible in the middle of the body, take out the screw and the roof will lift off. If there is no screw then you probably have the later model where they did away with the screw (cost saving measure?) and the roof just loosely clips on. However, because the roofs were loose many people glued them on and depending on how much glue they used will determine how badly you destroy the coach in getting the roof off! Case in point, I picked this coach, with the roof firmly glued on, up at the 3mm Society AGM last weekend: It was a pretty bodged example and you can see I had to break the body getting the roof off and it's scrap now (you can see the mounting holes in the roof for when screws were used). It cost me £1.50 out of the 2nd hand rummage box, but the primary reason why I bought it and why I prised the roof off is because it had one of these fitted: These interiors for brake and open coaches were available as separate parts from Tri-ang, somebody should make these as 3D prints as I'm sure there'd be a market for them (I need about 30!). You might also want to consider fitting flush glazing as this looks much better. Cheers, Peter.
  6. Sorry to hear of your tribulations, hope your recovery continues to progress.
  7. TT-Pete

    On Cats

    I'm not into F1, I find it boring, but this, this I'd watch...
  8. "around" maybe, however "between", not so much...
  9. Sounds uncomfortable.
  10. And another one in agreement, in my case having dabbled with Hornby 1:120 I have now decided to remain with 3mm, and although I think some in the 3mm Society saw it as a threat, it perhaps works well as a recruiting sergeant. Stange how things can work out sometimes.
  11. I like the term "shuffling plank" and intend to use it more often in conversation. 😁 Having two independent circuits is a really good idea and I noticed that we often had more motion at any one time than some of the other larger DCC layouts that were effectively operating "one engine in steam". Ridiculous maybe, but effective, using the headshunt to kick back is more visually engaging and doubles the distance the loco travels in front of the viewing public. Yes, it could do with being a bit higher, and perhaps some outriggers to stabilise it for when clumsy great hulking operators keep knocking their knees against it and threatening the first airborne class 76. Adding crews is an interesting one, agreed for a roundy-roundy layout, but on a shuffling plank won't it look a bit weird with stationary locos all fully crewed? Also don't they need to be at both ends given the reversal moves as mentioned above? Cheers, Peter
  12. The LMS Ivatt diesel progresses; My only criticism is that the 3d printed buffers are very fragile, having snapped several off I have replaced them with metal Tri-ang A1A buffers. I paid Fox Transfers to reduce the artwork for the numeral etchings to 3mm scale (eek! expensive!) but at least when that's done any future purchasers will be able to get them at the usual price. Cheers, Peter
  13. Oh how I hate it when that happens (usually a cat's hair in this household!), or noticing that you sprayed a bit too long, or too close, and now have curtains. Varnish hides a multitude of sins, but can also introduce new ones... Hope you're not facing worst case scenario.
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