Can stay alive be fitted to a Bachmann loco?

[bubbles2]

I recently got into DCC in a small way purchasing a sound fitted Bachmann double Fairlie, so being a novice in DCC it’s properly a silly question but is it possible to fit stay alive to the Bachmann decoder chip or will I need to change the chip to add this facility.

 

[pauliebanger]

My experience is that the Bachmann Double Fairlie is a good and reliable runner and with so many wheels on an extended wheelbase you should not need to fit a stay alive if you keep wheels and pick-ups clean and in good contact.

 

However, stay alive caps can be fitted if you wish.

 

Note that it is not a simple task for several reasons. The loco PCB is not equipped with break out pads for direct connection of stay alive or indeed any feature not already fitted to the r-t-r model. There is not a great deal of free space in usable proportions to accomodate the stay alive capacitors. I would not recommend this as your first attempt at diy fitting as the loco PCB may need to be discarded and a Next18 adapter (which will come with breakout pads for all function outpts available from the decoder) fitted instead.

 

Changing the decoder will not help as all the above would still apply and there's no other sound decoder which will fit the model.

 

John G at Digitrains has installed stay alives in several B. Double Fairlies (and added working lamps, flickering firebox and more) so he will be able to give you a full run down of what's required and how to do it.

 

He'll be able to advise, supply the parts you need or to install them for you, give him a call.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

[bubbles2]

Thanks for the reply Paul, as you say the Fairlie is not a bad runner with plenty of wheels on the track, I was wondering which of the large  Hunslets to go for, whether to go for sound fitted or fit a decoder which maybe easier to add stay alive to as obviously the Hunslets have fewer pickups/wheels on the track.

[pauliebanger]

That's OK.

 

Go for the sound fitted. It's a great decoder, top sounds and there is some fancy trickery which makes use of the two independently powered firebox LEDs from which you will only get the full benefit with a sound decoder.

 

One of these features is that with the firebox door opened (for firing) you get a steady glow when stationary, but the fire 'pulses' in brightness in sync with the chuffs simulating what happens in real life as air is drawn through the fire by the draught of the chimney.

 

Anyone not using the factory fitted sound decoder in this model will not get this experience or that of related features...........

 

Again, ask John G if he has a stay alive solution. (He has, I've seen it, lol).

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

Edited December 2, 2022 by pauliebanger

[Locomotionlotion]

I'm looking to fit a tiny stay alive into one of my Double Fairlies, but it's the open cab version. I've noticed that most people fit their capacitor above the firebox, inside the cab. Obviously, I can't do that.
So I've taken it apart to have a look at space on the inside and the smokebox is basically empty. It's only a tiny space, but there are some Nano capacitors that are 4 x 12mm, which should JUST fit in that space. Ideally, I need something smaller though.

However, I've already fitted this loco with a headlight and firebox flicker. Surely, I wouldn't need to change the decorder again to fit the stay-alive? I've not dealt with stay-alive's before, but this loco has started cutting out regularly, even when I clean it up really well , align the pickups and then lubricate it again.

[Vecchio]

If there is restricted room tantalum capacitors will do it. As it is a small loco it will not need a lot. Problem is the next 18 socket. With a good eyesight and a very small tip you can solder wires direct to the socket. Did so on an H0 model. But do this only if you are pretty good at soldering, as otherwise you may ruin it.  In the example below I used enamelled wires as connection for speaker and stay alive. Being very thin the wires are hardly noticeable in the model. I painted the capacitors in a colour similar to the interior of the model.

 

Tantalum capacitor bank in a small draisine (Austrian version of a Wickham trolley)

20200531_155225 

 

Soldering iron used

20200531_155317

 

ready model

20200531_162353 

 

Model will be on show on the 12th (Roade) and 19th (MK Silverfox) of August. 

[Kaput]

2 hours ago, Locomotionlotion said:

I'm looking to fit a tiny stay alive into one of my Double Fairlies, but it's the open cab version. I've noticed that most people fit their capacitor above the firebox, inside the cab. Obviously, I can't do that.
So I've taken it apart to have a look at space on the inside and the smokebox is basically empty. It's only a tiny space, but there are some Nano capacitors that are 4 x 12mm, which should JUST fit in that space. Ideally, I need something smaller though.

However, I've already fitted this loco with a headlight and firebox flicker. Surely, I wouldn't need to change the decorder again to fit the stay-alive? I've not dealt with stay-alive's before, but this loco has started cutting out regularly, even when I clean it up really well , align the pickups and then lubricate it again.

 

It will depend a lot on what decoder you are using. The Next18 specification is supposed to define that stay alive connections are made on the PCB side and not on the decoder so the factory sound Fairlies which have Zimo MX decoders don't really have any provision for stay alive without soldering to the socket.

 

New Zimo MS decoders and all ESU Loksounds have solder pads on the decoder for stay alive so its just a case of where to put the actual caps.

[Nigelcliffe]

If the factory Next18 PCB hasn't got the solder contacts for stay-alive (and Paul above says' they are not provided), then my approach would be to replace the PCB with a new socket/PCB which does have the contacts.   

 

Wiring stay-alives onto decoders is a very second-rate solution compared to putting the wiring through the decoder socket.  The installation from a socket can be so much neater and "just works".     As to which stay-alive, it really is a space calculation on what could go in, the smallest will be tantalum capacitors, but if there's a little more space then a lot of options become possible.   

 

 

However, back at the loco - why is it cutting out after a short period of use ?  It should have eight wheels on the track, all working.    Are all the pickups actually working, or are there some factory bits of plastic flash stopping the pickup contacting a wheel, or a wire with a break in the middle of it (which might re-make when the loco is moved) ?  Seen all of them on various models, and not just UK brands.  

[bandmbill]

I would place the loco on your work bench wheels in the air - select the loco and turn the speed up a bit - two leads from the track and apply power to each pair of wheels - work through the wheels to see if any aren’t picking up…..