Small station on a corner baseboard (from Scalescenes R004a_TX45 and texture sheets) with stone (TX46) industrial buildings close around.

[Dr.Glum]

Baseboard 7 of my 4 track roundy-roundy is to have a short two platform station surrounded by ‘northern’ industrial buildings. There’s a road bridge (already built and shown in my main layout thread

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/168263-eastfield-mkiii-00-4-track-roundy-roundy-in-129-x-94/

The main thread also describes marking and cutting the curved foamboard bases and greyboard platform surfaces.

Final fettling of platform edges was checked by running carriages past to check for tight spots and judge the ‘look’ of the thing.

With a variety of stock, I had the edges as close as I dared.

The above is the inner platform against the 30 inch radius curve of the inner track. I juggled the height of the platform and the closeness of the edge to the track, but you can’t get entirely away from the hideous gaps.

The view below is the corresponding outer platform which is also has a minimum 30 inch radius as the track is brought in (out of shot, left) towards the other three.

The platforms are built in situ on the foamboard base, making sure that is weighted down as items are glued on. (The plywood baseboard is ‘pretty flat’, but not 100% perfect, so I want the scenic modules, which won’t be stuck down, to follow exactly.) The platform support formers are strips of 2mm greyboard painted both sides with knot stopping liquid.

The platform surface is also 2mm greyboard. I’ve glued one section down (left) and applied ‘tarmac’ paper (from a Scalescenes kit). I’ve also started the background retaining walls. A new Pritt stick came in handy. The large heavy plane has proved very useful as a flat bottomed heavy object while glue sets. It also (as in image below) been useful for very very carefully planing off slightly tall sections of the formers. I find it impossible to cut myriad strips and have them all with correct widths and edges normal (as in ‘at right-angles’) to the flat surface. For the surface layer to touch at all (most!) points you need accuracy of point something of a millimetre, but the plane offered a useful correction method.

There is a short siding (out of sight behind the plane, above) which is to be a loading dock under the industrial buildings. I was keen to get on with the walling involved. Almost too keen when I’d reached the point of making a light box (to shine through an open doorway), as I had made two mistakes. I had decided on a datum height for the roadway and a standard height for the retaining walls in that vicinity. So far so good, but when I started making the inside wall of the loading bay I managed to work to the wrong one of those two numbers. My wall (which was nearly finished, lined with white painted brickwork TX05, ready for lamps, etc.) would not fit under the roadway layers. Oh blow! It was not easy dealing with that, as there were things stuck on both sides of the wall.

The second mistake was the positioning of the open doorway and the walls of the enclosure behind. The photo below shows the conflict with the end of the bridge abutment when trying to position the wall. I needed to get that wall parallel to the platform.

I was saved from having to move the open doorway (which would have affected the other lamps and their wiring), by finding that just a few millimetres would save the day, by carving the bridge end. See next image.

Multiple layers of greyboard laminated with PVA are remarkably tough to carve, even with fresh blades. But that’s a good thing for the strength of what you build.

The next photo shows the cutout exactly made for the future road layers and the light box which also had to be modified for height clearance. The lid (shown upside-down) with the LED and wiring is a snug push fit into the top of the enclosure. Trials suggested a 5KΏ resistor would give a sufficiently dim glow. We’ll see; it can always be changed.

So having been delayed by my silly errors, I finally finished the wiring for this and the two swan neck lamps and could try the set up in the dark (with a temporary roof)

One of the lamps is slightly pointing at the camera (they’re not glued in their holes) and both are too bright. I’ll have to get some 2KΏ resistors. They’re supposed to be yellow. And the white light from inside the doorway is swamped by them; it may need a lower resistor. I always try for the dimmest light effect that’ll do the job, so that they’re right for your eyes ten minutes after you put the room light out. (And we’re in the early 60’s on this layout.) My camera is a bit simple for this kind of photography.

Now that I’ve stared at that image for a bit, I fear I might be tempted to make a proper ceiling of brick and girder jack arches. Oh blow!

[Dr.Glum]

I wanted to start building the stone walls behind the platform, but as they are to be glued to the platform, I needed to cover the platform first. That led me to spending quite a long time fettling the edge of the platform to ensure there were no ‘tight spots’ with carriages on the track. After gluing down ‘tarmac’ I started on the edge paving.

I used the flagstones from R008 Platforms. Slits were cut between the flags up to the back edge of the white lining, and snipped off strips of 6 – 7 at a time so that the PVA wouldn’t dry before I’d formed the softened paper into place. I didn’t try to wrap and glue the paper onto the underside of the protruding platform. I left the glue to harden overnight, then ran a very sharp blade along the vertical edge to trim it off. The image below shows the finished construction, with brick paper on the wall and ‘corbelling’ brick course glued on under the lip of the platform.

Next I needed to build the smaller of the two rooms of the R004a station building so that I could position it and mark up where the retaining wall behind should be. I found it quite time consuming. I cheated by putting in a floor (2mm greyboard) so that there was something to help when gluing the sides and ends together. It leaves a messy detail (gap) at the foot of the doors, but I don’t think anyone will be able to see once the canopy is on.

I wanted to extend with a free-standing (on columns) section of canopy, but chickened out of making the whole thing curved to match the curve of the platform. Here’s my compromise.

The open area will have the glazing. I spent ages on-line trying to find columns that would suit my height and were not too expensive. I failed, but did go searching in my brass strips box and found some tubing (in 2 concentric sizes) that will let me make my own. I even found some brass laddering that is way too chunky for a ladder, but will be ideal horizontally between the tops of the columns.

The last picture shows the current main modules of the ‘scenery’: the platform base with retaining walling, the rest of the walling and the underground loading bay, and the road bridge. Obviously, the last two are not down in position for the photo.

 

[Dr.Glum]

Progress went very slowly as I grappled with installing lights into the canopy, one 5mm yellow for the room and three 2mm yellow in the canopy. (Bought from Express Models ten years ago.) Everything that could go wrong, did. I reached the stage of four LEDs with soldered connections shaped to fit (very tedious), but when I did a test, the resistor was faulty and tried to burn out, reducing three of the LEDs to very dim lights. I thought the 5mm one was still bright enough, but later found it wasn’t and had to replace it. While testing three replacement 2mm ones, I stupidly forgot a resistor and put 12 volts through them. Did you know they give a slight click as they burn out? They will then only give a feeble light. Hey ho!

The next image shows the second attempt at wiring in the canopy. Only slightly neater than Mk1.

I glued the LEDs in place and some of the wires where I needed to keep them 'flat' with Bostik All Purpose Clear (Ultra Strong), which has good 'grab', but is a to use as it strings immediately. Strong, but I found I could peel it away when I needed to remove the failed wiring.

 

Finally I could get on with the more pleasurable task of putting the roof on. After studying the instructions several times I concluded that they were asking for two layers of thin card. I couldn’t be arsed with that – it took too long getting a nice fit at the angle in the roof. I’ll take a chance on it bowing in.

I had to think long and hard about fitting my non-standard size skylight. The printed cut-out in the kit was too big, so I settled for panels each side. I left a 2mm with of the roof panel running along the bottom and top of the hole: the guttering covers the first and the peak cover will deal with the latter. The main overlays are supposed to have a thickness of thin card – mine are just paper onto the gutter. I decided it was too big an ask to cut and fit the panels to exactly fit along both long edges, so I cut overwidth and trimmed off once the glue had set. This implies my barge boards would be glued on afterwards (not as per the instructions), with their top edges blackened to match the roofing.

 

[Dr.Glum]

It’s been about a month since I started the covering layers on the platform, building back walls and making the little station building. First image is the wiring complete inside the canopy.

Next, the roof side. Some things I can do better; I have learnt for when I make the two on the opposite platform. Some water marks and a few touches of green pencil would improve things.

Next, I couldn’t resist planting the building and wiring up the lights. (Despite the temperature 4degC in the conservatory.) I’m quite pleased with the result. The roof isn’t fixed on, which is why it droops a bit where there are no pillars yet. The base of the building needs fettling so its a better fit on the platform (which turns out to have a subtle vertical curve there – typical!

[Dr.Glum]

A view at dusk. The camera has brightened things, so reality is three dim pools of light – just what I was aiming for.

[ISW]

On 12/01/2023 at 16:50, Dr.Glum said:

Next I needed to build the smaller of the two rooms of the R004a station building

I built one of the 'free' ScaleScenes little buildings a few years back and, like the one you are building, I found the walls to be very thick, typically 2 or 3 layers of 2mm greyboard. This made construction quite hard, both on me and my craft knives! That's one of the reasons I'm now using layers of ~0.5mm cereal packet cardboard. I can 'choose' the thickness I want, and the individual layers allow for much more intricate 3D relief. I find that 2mm or 3mm thickness is amply sturdy.

 

In the case of the roof, I've learnt through experience / practice and if the real roof was built in 'sections' or 'parts' it is best to do the same thing with a model. My first models had an inkjet printed 'roof tiles' pattern but were just glued on 'flat'. I now cut strips of overlapping tiles (again from an inkjet printout) and glue them on individually, overlapping as I go (a very common modelling method). It's tedious but worth the effort. You could do the same with your roof to highlight the joins more.

 

19 hours ago, Dr.Glum said:

Next, I couldn’t resist planting the building and wiring up the lights. (Despite the temperature 4degC in the conservatory.) I’m quite pleased with the result.

Those LEDs do look nice and the effect at 'night' is very good. The building I'm currently constructing has made allowance for retrofitting of LEDs (aka the roof comes off easily) and your photos give me encouragement to pursue the same.

 

Ian

[Dr.Glum]

I needed some canopy pillars. Most ready-made that I could find were too tall (and a bit pricey). My height under the canopy is set at 42mm by the building height. I would have had to cut off all the fancy moulding top or bottom of bought ones, so I had a look in my collection of brass strips and found two sizes of tube and a stamped strip that was sold as ladders.

I made a jig with 2mm greyboard.

The small red device (above) is a tube cutter. Well worth having; with care you get nice clean square cuts. The end result, standing upright.

There was a snag! In the above, the right hand bay is narrower than the left hand one. In place on the platform, I couldn’t just leave it and not notice it. Bah! I was able to remake the centre of my jig and solder the stanchion into the right place (and vertical, again). The end result on the platform is next (temporary positioning).

Dwindling traffic at the station and BR’s attempts to save money on maintenance has meant the canopy roof has been cut back.

Finally, a fun view of the station building in the lee of the road bridge.

[ISW]

4 hours ago, Dr.Glum said:

I made a jig with 2mm greyboard.

Neat little jig that. I'll use something similar when I get to building my station canopies. Thanks for the idea / tip.

 

Ian

[Dr.Glum]

Thank you, Ian.

I needed to solder the cross leg on, that will reach to the wall behind the platform. I amended the card jig by cutting a small slot in the edge, sized to lightly grip the lattice hanging down in a vertical position. Scrap blocks of card were glued added to push the cross piece against, and under it to set it at right angles. This had to be judged by eye.

I found an old (1991) jar of Carr’s 188 solder paste, but it wasn’t amenable to the soldering iron. With great trepidation, and an iron only just hot enough I managed use my normal solder to tin the column top and sweat on the cross piece, without the existing leg falling off. It ended up about 3 degrees off true, but once on I wasn’t going near it with heat again! (I should have pre-glued a block up to the second side (nearest camera) of the cross piece, to hold it straight.)

When I’d cleaned off solder residues and I looked at it, I thought, “Why did I make life hard by having a separate piece? I could have wrapped a bend around the top of the column!”. I think I’d always envisaged a right-angled butt joint, although I bugged that up by not leaving ‘arms’ sticking out on the end of the longer piece when I soldered it up.

I stood the unit on the platform with the canopy and I saw the answer. I did not know the length in advance, because until I made it, I didn’t know what would look ‘right’ for the position of the columns, between the platform edge and the back wall.

As I type this I realise I could have made an educated guess, left a little extra on the length, and if it was too long, gradually trimmed it back until I was happy with ‘the look’. Hey ho, you live and learn.

 

[Dr.Glum]

The photo I had taken in the dark with the model lights on showed me I needed a lamp hanging off the roofless canopy support. Further along the platform I could use lamp posts.

This lamp from the cross beam seemed bit tricky. The power connection would be on show. I decided to try a square axial LED that I’d ordered ‘on-spec’ from Express Models. Very gingerly I twisted the flat arms through 90 degrees, bent the arm at 90 degrees and soldered leads to them. The image shows before I fully trimmed the joints.

I tested the light in case I’d ruined it with the iron. It worked, but so bright! My test rig is shown next; various resistances up to 3KΩ. Still too bright and not yellow. Then it dawned on me I’d probably have to paint the emitting area so I took another one and tried a test. (I wasn’t going to risk with the actual unit yet.) No choice of yellow paint in the cupboard: Humbrol 66 – sort of sandy yellow. With a normal amount of paint applied the light was reasonable (still on 3KΩ) although not quite the same colour as the ones in the canopy.

The test rig with various value resistors connected. (As shown I had just tested a painted LED on the 3KΩ resistor; the green wire should go there instead to test the ‘real’ LED.)

 

[Dr.Glum]

I superglued connecting wires to a T shaped piece of thin card and doused the assembly with PVA glue. When set, I filed flat the area of the soldered joints. I then painted the back assembly black and the front arms whit(ish). I glued a washer onto the LED and blobbed more PVA on top for a (sort of) dome. In the meantime I’d painted the canopy section with Humbrol 34 (sort of creamish off-white, don’t know what range it’s from, and best Crown non-drip gloss Burgundy for the bases) and installed pegs in the bottom of two legs.

The image below shows the unit in place with the pillars in place on the platform. The new lamp needs another coat of yellow to take its brightness down.

[ISW]

2 hours ago, Dr.Glum said:

I superglued connecting wires to a T shaped piece of thin card and doused the assembly with PVA glue. When set, I filed flat the area of the soldered joints. I then painted the back assembly black and the front arms whit(ish). I glued a washer onto the LED and blobbed more PVA on top for a (sort of) dome.

Any chance of a photo of the above 'assembly'? It sounds like a neat way of making your own station lamps, which might come in handy.

 

Ian

[Dr.Glum]

Ian has asked to see the lamp on the canopy framing in detail. (You can see the basic LED and wires in the images in the Feb 18th post.) Image 1 below shows the lamp in place from above. The PVA on the top of the washer/LED doesn’t take the Humbrol black enamel very well and needs touching in. That coat is needed to prevent white light bleed upwards (and will then need a white coat on top). At the moment it is not glued to the lattice.

Image 2 shows the underside of the lamp and the two leads glued to the underside of the card T-piece. I should have persevered with more blobs of PVA to increase the dome on top, but was away a few days and then forgot before I first applied paint. (Apologies for the focus lack.)

[Dr.Glum]

I’d started detailed planning of the buildings on the inner platform and quickly realised they’re longer than I’d expected (or the space is shorter) and it could be a squeeze for the footbridge steps. I did a lot of measuring up, but then there is uncertainty about the space needed for the footbridge. The answer is to build it, so I started.

Two thicknesses of 2mm greyboard glued together, with a 1mm layer added on top (which cured a slight downwards bend) with floorboards copied from a Scalescenes freebie shed. The side ‘railings’ are 3D printed lattice bridge sides (4 x 190mm at £4.50) from Rhuddlan Models who do a lot of interesting 4mm and 2mm 3D prints at a very reasonable price.

The first image shows me gluing on with PVA the next to last panel of the side. Multiple sections were needed because the bridge is more than 300mm long. One of the four lengths of 16 panels had a bit of a bend in it but there was enough to cut 4 + 13 + 4 panels for the stairs side and 5 + 16 + 5 for the long side. I glued each panel and left it for a long time for the glue to absolutely set before adding the next one.

I applied the minimum amount of glue with the flat toothpick dipped in the blob from the bottle. I had wanted to use Bostik All Purpose Ultra Strong glue for its strength. I did a test piece with an offcut of the bridge side, but although I applied the minimum, I was not satisfied with my ability to totally clean up the glue that inevitably squeezed out from the joint. So I tried another test piece using PVA: it works, but I know it is breakable because I had to break off one glued section and shorten it by two panels as it had an upwards bend that offended my eye. (Not noticed before gluing of course.)

Image 2 includes the bridge deck with one complete side, but is mainly to show me attacking an old Hornby footbridge bought cheap years ago at a Toy Fair.

I have sawn the rising steps from the landing (and will also have to saw off the rising stairs). I would have preferred (as an engineer) to set the pillars under the edges of the landing (where the joists would have been, not that I have any), but the pillars didn’t want to come out of the moulding. So I’m going to save myself a lot of work by tidying up the landings and at some point glue them under the ends of my bridge. The visible offset is small enough not to worry most people!

[ISW]

5 hours ago, Dr.Glum said:

Those steel 'X's with slots on each side look really useful as supports while making models. I'll have to keep an eye out for something similar at the local car boots.

 

Ian

[Dr.Glum]

Who would be afraid to take a heavy tool to their scenery? Hah!

The top edge needed a slight change so that the warehouse module I’ve built can sit level on top of the wall. See build details in:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/178336-scalescenes-low-relief-factorywarehouse-t026-amended-in-4mm-scale/#comment-5128116

 

[ISW]

2 hours ago, Dr.Glum said:

Who would be afraid to take a heavy tool to their scenery? Hah!

As long as it's uber-sharp, I'm sure it'd work just fine. Keep it clear of your fingers though ...

 

Ian

[Dr.Glum]

Footbridge construction continued

The overhead view below shows the complication of one staircase (the left hand one) being at an angle which needed a landing extension. Otherwise the foot of the steps would have been almost at the platform edge. (The camera makes the right hand one also look skew, but partly its lens effect and partly the steps were not attached at this time.)

I was reading “Scenes From The Past no.42 (Part Two) The Oldham Loop, New Hey, Milnrow and Rochdale to Manchester Victoria” by Jeffrey Wells and on page 94 there was a wonderful footbridge sign. I wasn’t going to try to exactly match it, but I was in love with the wording and the style. I created my text in Adobe InDesign to model size, made duplicates and exported as a PDF so that printing would preserve the size. The font I chose was Artifakt Element Black.

I was concerned about how to make a sturdy model and considered soldering up a frame. In the end I found some bullhead rail left over from building track in 3mm finescale. The board is card and the idea was to slot it into the rails. However, it didn’t fit well enough, so as per the photo below I glued a backing piece to both the sign and the rails.

Once glued, I could trim the edges flush.

Below is my sign and the original at Newton Heath station. The 1956 photo in the book shows the whole footbridge with the two signs. Interestingly the RH one appears to be wooden letters, but the left hand one seems to be painted on and designed to match.

[Below] the ‘finished’ footbridge. Some weathering to apply, sometime.

Views in place on the layout, below:

and

and

 

Edited March 7 by Dr.Glum