Ikea Lack layout design

[desiro450]

Hello Everyone, 

 

I'm returning to the hobby after more than a decade and I'm feeling rather rusty! I'd like to create a small 00 gauge depot scene on an Ikea Lack shelf. The largest of the range - 190x26cm. 

Given the size constraints I'm trying to keep things simple. There's not much scope for 'operations' bar shuffling between sidings so I'm prepared to end up with little more than a diorama. 

 

I've had a play with RailModeller Express and come up with the attached. Can the more experienced spot anything wrong with my plan? 

 

The red boxes represent an estimate as to how much space a RHTT set with two 73's would occupy. 

 

I'm still deciding on a theme but I've narrowed it down to perhaps an RHTT servicing depot or locomotive depot like Leicester. Present day. 

 

Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

It's good to be back enjoying the hobby again! 

 

 

[RobinofLoxley]

Welcome back.

 

The track arrangement looks quite good to me. I just don't understand what you can do with the stock you mention in the position you show it.

 

I think a few people would suggest a shunting theme for it. Such a thing would benefit from a runaround. There would be a lot more movement than with an MPD, if you wanted it. 

 

I'm not familiar with that software but I'm guessing it's 00 track - did you consider N or even TT, not to fit more track specifically but more stock on the same track lengths.

[desiro450]

Thank you for your reply.

 

You are quite right, I based the original design on being able to accommodate stock I liked, however on reflection it would be better to base the design on functionality given the available space. 

 

I've incorporated a runaround in this second design and tried to keep headhunts to at least 30cm. 

 

I'm going to stick with 00 as I'm invested in the scale from my previous layout in the parent's garage. Sadly the space was reclaimed and the layout dismantled a number of years ago. 

 

I think perhaps investing in DCC might also add to the operational interest. I like the idea of perhaps having a sound fitted 08 I can run about.

[Flying Pig]

If you're thinking of present day, then a loco is going to fill your 30cm headshunt, so you won't actually be able to shunt anything from the runround into the sidings.  You may just not have quite enough room to have a useful runround with modern mainline locos and wagons.  That isn't a problem with a depot layout where you can have sidings in both directions that the locos can access easily without running round a train.

 

But you don't have to have sidings in both directions.  It's tempting to fill the board up with track, but a simple fan of three sidings with a headshunt long enough for one or two locos can look more convincing and still give a bit of operational interest shuffling them around the depot.

[ColinK]

I do like that plan. I would have low relief factories/wharehouses/etc  at the top so wagons could be parked by them for unloading, and a fiddlestick on the bottom right track. So freight comes off the fiddlestick, loco shunts ‘full’ wagons into the sidings by the warehouses and removes empties, then forms the empties into a train which departs back to the fiddlestick.  Add a platform edge at the bottom of the layout (by the runround loop) and you could have a passenger service too.

[desiro450]

Thank you both. I appreciate your input.

 

I've come up with a third plan which strips things back and focusses on short trains entering from a 3-4 road fiddle yard. I won't have space for the additional board for a while but this plan would still allow for somewhat realistic shunting moves. 

 

Colin, I like your vision. The additional board would certainly make the second plan more useable and entertaining. 

 

[RobinofLoxley]

You can do a bit more with something like the plan below. The original idea to use threeway points was sound because of the space saving across the board more than the length. This one could have two class 08's running at the same time in what is almost a shunting puzzle format. Theres a bit of space for something scenic at the front although it could be flipped.

[desiro450]

Thank you for taking the time to draw up a plan. I like really it. I wouldn't have thought to use threeway points in that configuration. 

 

The genesis for this project was a rather large rectangular box appearing under the Christmas tree.... Suspecting I'd been bought a Hornby starter set, I needed to intervene and come up with an alternative so as to not hurt feelings - Enter my little plank! 

Thankfully the partner took it rather well....

 

I think I've decided to dabble with the world of DCC with this one, sound will add an extra dimension to something so compact.  

 

I'm currently discovering the rabbit holes of DCC. This forum has proved invaluable along with some of the other separate blogs. I have found some conflicting information...

 

Without wanting to invest huge amounts. I'm thinking of purchasing a Hornby Digital Select controller, I can pick one up for under £100 it seems. Would that be sufficient? 

 

I don't plan on using a bus wire, so I've learnt that using point clips (or soldering wire underneath) will be needed. This seems straightforward for LR & RH turnouts but the threeways look a little more complicated. Is it doable with clips or are more drastic measures required? 

 

Many thanks! 

Edited December 19, 2022 by desiro450

[RobinofLoxley]

You can find out about the Elite in the DCC section - searching will throw up plenty of info. Check that it can flip 7 turnouts minimum - the 3-ways count 2 each, if you intend to use that plan. You don't have to control turnouts via the command station of course.

 

You will have a bus of sorts as that is what carries the DCC commands. For reliability most people would recommend something more than the Hornby clips - I suppose you are hoping to avoid drilling holes in the shelf. 

 

You would also have to choose whether to have insulated frog or electrofrog turnouts, another significant subject.

[desiro450]

Hope everyone's start to 2023 has been a good one! 

 

Since my last post, the festive period came through and provided the foundations for the Ikea plank and the track plan kindly suggested by RobinofLoxley (Thank you!) 

 

Initially, things will now be DC. I understand the need to wire up track sections to make sure I don't create dead areas by flicking points but I'm still trying to work out which sections would be best to receive power, all turnouts are insulfrog. 

 

I reckon I could get away with three track connections, so the initial plan is to solder wires to all three lines in cell 11? (see the attached image). Am I missing anything obvious? 

 

If I was to convert to DCC at a later date - I understand that I would need to wire up all track sections. 

 

Unfortunately given my space constraints and the non-permanent nature of this plank... I won't be using powered points or any other fancy gizmos or accessories. 

 

Any hints, tips or suggestions are gratefully received. 

 

 

 

[RobinofLoxley]

You can identify that there are four sidings - these are self isolating. All the other sections require a power feed, five in total. I would suggest you put simple on -off switches on the positive side of each feed which will enable 2 locos to be operated- you can switch off one loco by removing the power from its section or by placing it in a siding then setting the point the 'other way'.  All the returns are common. I'll have a think as to whether any insulated joiners would be useful apart from saving some dismantling if you switched to DCC.

[desiro450]

Ah yes. New day - fresh eyes. A track feed at the toe of each turnout should do it? 

 

Having thought about it a bit more, I doubt if I will proceed with the idea of DCC. As I've mentioned, the project is the best compromise I could come up with to avoid receiving a Hornby starter set for Christmas. The Coca Cola one if you please! 

 

It'll have it's uses though, a practice piece to stand me in good stead for a larger layout when space permits. 

 

I will definitely use on/off switches as you mention. 

[RobinofLoxley]

While you may not imagine this converted to DCC, what I can foresee is that it could easily become part of a modular build in the future. Or you might rip it up. so keep good track alignment at least.

 

I was trying to work out if it would be better to put in some insulated joiners, because there are some situations where you could switch off a section but it will still get power from elsewhere. For example, bottom right, if you shut off power to the central section, it will still be powered from the headshunt to the right, if the turnout is set to straight. However, if you use joiners on turnouts it would be normal to improve power delivery by soldering droppers onto specific places within the turnout, which with a 3-way could be complicated, as I dont have any and never have, I couldn't advise. Maybe someone else will read this and comment.