3mm Beginner - J50 construction and chassis design

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Hello all,

I returned to the hobby after a 20 year break during lockdown, when i started reading Railway Modeller again, then later that summer found rmWeb and have been reading and studying things on here, occasionally commenting. Reading the RM gave me some incentive to build a layout, but despite numerous scribblings I didnt progress anything and couldnt come up with anything that really worked for me, in terms of operational interest.  Long story short, over Christmas I started thinking about something late 1950s/early 1960s era, based on the ECML - always having been a fan of the Gresey/Peppercorn Pacifics, not to mention Deltics. 

 

My doodles showed that wanting to run eight or ten coach trains in OO was not quite viable in the space I had, that turned my attention to N, although the lack of LNER models (once away from the Pacifics) hindered me a little, and im not sure I want to be dealing with something that small.  I looked at Hornby's TT gauge but then discovered 3mm.  I have played about with brass and nickle silver in the past, quite enjoy electronics and have had a play with a friends 7mm DCC system, so can see the advantages of this over DC.  Having thought about things more, something in 3mm does tend to fit well in my mind, and the idea that everything from the baseboards to the rolling stock and signals has to be hand-built (ie meaning you really could say, I did that) has some attraction too.  It would be a slow burn project, but thats not necessarily an issue, a friend has showed me an article in a specalist magazine about creating bespoke laser cut baseboards, which again triggers my interest - Im not an expert but I do use a bit of CAD in my day job, so could create an open-plan baseboard design im sure.

 

All of this is a long winded way of saying im tempted to have a go, but I had a few questions that I could not immediately find the answers to and thought you chaps may have some views or opinions.  Im not 100% yet, despite mulling for over six weeks, so this may not happen, but felt it was worth exploring further:-

 

The questions i have are:

a) I appreciate there are different track gauges in 3mm scale, id be looking at 14.2mm.  What is viewed as the minimum radius at that gauge? I would follow the less is more idea I think, but I want to make sure im not getting near the minimum radius which could cause issues.

 

b) I hate the Hornby style hook coouplings. I know from reading rmWeb that the 2mm Finescale chaps prefer DG couplings, which have the ability to be automatic too, but what do people tend to use in 3mm?

 

c) I appreciate I would need to somehow create my own Peppercorn A1 and Gresley A3 models, but i think A4, B1, B17, WD, J11, J50, N2, V1, V2 as well as Baby Deltic, 31, 40, 37 and 47 models (or at least bodyshells) are available, although Im not sure the shape of the A4 model ive seen looks quite right - but then it is a very difficult shape to get right I think.  Do the High Level Kits gearboxes and motors fit within a 3mm bodyshell does anyone know?  I dont think a chassis would be too difficult for me to design.

 

d) I would term myself more of a (wannabe) finescale modeller than course scale, and have no interest in the old Triang models at all. Within the terms of what is available and individual skill level, am I over-reaching to get a good quality, detailed model in 3mm that would stand up to being photographed?  There certainly seems to be plenty of castings and detailing bits available, and there's always 3D printing of things to fall back on I suspect.

 

e) (Finally!) I would probably join the Society and acquire one of their J50 white metal body kits to start with.  Has anyone built one of these - any views on it as a first loco kit?

 

Any thoughts/comments and helpful suggestions or insight on the above would be more than welcome.  If I do go down this road, emphasis on the IF, it will be very progressive steady project, a bit of trackwork on a single short board to start with, a wagon kit, then maybe a Worlsey Works scratch-aid Gresley coach, then a J50 or something - im not looking to jump in at the deep end!

 

Richie

Edited March 2 by BetweenTheTunnels
Title Change

[whart57]

Welcome to the club, though to do this you really need to join the Society. Suitable wheels for 14.2mm gauge finescale, flexible trackbase and rail are hard to get outside the Society and the Finetrax 14.2mm gauge point kits are sold to Society members at a discount. There are also a few leading members who are active in NE, LNER and BR(Eastern Region) things.

 

Regarding minimum radius, I'd advise 36" for the mainline on account of those big Pacifics you are thinking of. That can come down a bit with smaller engines or with diesels. A generous radius also allows coaches to be more closelyo coupled, again the sort of trains you want to run don't want to have Olympic long jump distances between coaches. The curve through a Finetrax B6 point for 14.2mm gauge is about 33" radius and there have been no reports I am aware of of big steamers refusing to go through.

 

3mm finescale modellers generally use DG couplings or B&B, both are available as 3mm scale etches, as are Sprat and Winkles though these are less commonly used.

 

High level gear boxes and motors are often used, typically the smaller issues, and I have put the smallest inside an 0-6-0T saddle tank. Fitting motors and gear boxes into large mainline locos hasn't been a problem for over thirty years now, not since Mashimas and Tenshodos became available.

 

Can you solder, or are you at least prepared to learn? Good old etched brass is still the favourite for building good quality locos. You say you are a wannabe finescale modeller, and I applaud that. However don't expect to hit the heights with your first effort. If you like making things though then etched brass is a nice way to go. The tedious business of measuring out and cutting out is done for you and you can just enjoy having your model take shape as you go along. 3D printing is another way but this is still maturing,

 

I can't comment on white metal kits, except to say that, as with 4mm scale, the quality is highly variable. I don't like them personally so I never have them on the workbench.

[BetweenTheTunnels]

@whart57

Thanks for taking the time to reply.  Yes, if I do decided to go ahead then i'll certainly be looking to join the Society.  36" radius as a minimum certainly works with where I was thinking - my plan was for a minimum of about 40", so im well in there.  I have not come across B&B couplings, so i'll take a look at those, thanks.  Glad to hear that High Level gear boxes can be fitted in, as they seem to be some of the best out there (I acknowledge it is personal preference however!)

 

1 hour ago, whart57 said:

Can you solder, or are you at least prepared to learn? Good old etched brass is still the favourite for building good quality locos. You say you are a wannabe finescale modeller, and I applaud that. However don't expect to hit the heights with your first effort. If you like making things though then etched brass is a nice way to go. The tedious business of measuring out and cutting out is done for you and you can just enjoy having your model take shape as you go along. 3D printing is another way but this is still maturing,

 

I am reasonably ok at soldering I think, probably better with a decent iron and the right type/temperature of solder! But in my mind I am viewing this as a slow and steady project that is enjoyable and is about building skills, making mistakes, correcting them and then having another bash!  So i've no problems with learning by mistake!  I dont recall doing much in brass before, but i have built a couple of brass (or was it Nickle Silver?) wagon chassis years ago, and have been reading up on springing wagons and bogies, so i think I am giving myself a reasonable background knowledge.

 

"wannabe finescale modeller" was probably a bit of a pompus phrase to use!  I was meaning purely that I wanted to look more towards the detail and scale dimensions end of things, rather than Triang and course scale 3mm - nothing wrong with either of course, just the latter isnt my cup of tea.   I recall building a 009 loco body, possibly a Chivers, many, many years ago, that was white metal - I seem to recall quite enjoying working with it as a material as it was easy to glue and make sure there was a good neat sharp edge - course its must be 25 years ago now, so time could well have clouded my memory!

 

The problem with starting anything new is so much to learn and do, so where to start.  Hence my thought on a society wagon kit - something like a 16-ton mineral, a 12-ton box van or a blue spot fish van, seems a logical starting point.  Then some track to push it up and down and check all runs ok.

 

Thanks for the feedback that you have given and for taking the time to reply - much appreciated.

 

Richie

[BetweenTheTunnels]

@whart57

Just a quick update to say thanks again - i've joined the 3mm Society and spent a pleasurable hour reading back through the past three of four 'Mixed Traffic' digital editions.  I think that paves the way for ordering some rail and wagon kit!  Maybe this adventurer is off the blocks.....

 

Richie

[whart57]

Have you joined this group - https://groups.io/g/3mm-scale-modelling  ?

 

It's the place to ask questions and usually get a reply

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Thanks, yes I have!

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Membership pack for the 3mm Society arrived today, really nice surprise to find two six-inch lengths of trackwork in it (one 12mm, one 14.2mm) and a compliementary plastic wagon kit, complete with wheels.  Really good way of getting people started with building something nice and simple. 10 out of 10.

 

So my 3mm saga is now off the running board ... a Gresley Full Brake etch from Worsley Works has also turned up, so i've now got a couple of things to build!

[ikcdab]

Although I am firmly a OO modeller, I am really interested in this and I look forward to seeing pics of your progress

Ian

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Thanks Ian,

There is something about the 3mm Scale that just really gels with me, somewhat more than OO ever has - plus I cannot get distracted by a RTR manufacturer bring something new out!  Also something to be said for the fact that everything will be handbuild - just hoping I can make a decent job of it now!

 

Im going to build the wagon kit that the society have sent, and then my current plan is to purchase the LNER J50 body from 3SMR, and build my own chassis for 14.2mm.  I think i've got it all sorted out in my head now, re frames, wheels, hornblocks, gearbox etc.  The white metal body should be reasonably heavy and I think it has plenty of opportunity for adding  detail such as steps, lamp brackets and handrails etc.  Once that is done, i've spent £11 and bought some Worsley Works bodysides and end etches for a 3mm Gresley D43 Full Brake, which if I can make something reasonable out of it, should have given me a good grounding in building a loco, wagon and coach, so I can decide where to go next!

 

Anyway, thanks for the interest. I've asked a couple of questions of more knowledgable people about the brake coach over in the Scratchbuilding section, if you want to take a look, but i'll keep this thread update with progress.

Richie

Edited February 14, 2023 by BetweenTheTunnels
Spelling!

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Evening all,

Well pleased to say the Humbrol Liquid Poly turned up this afternoon, so tonight has seen my first bit of 3mm scale modelling undertaken! Im sure many people have built plastic kits before, so i'll not do a 'blow-by-blow' account, except to say there are a couple of 'finishing off' items to be done - I need to acquire replacement buffers when the 3mm Society Shop is available, and some 14.2mm wheels.  The roof needs painting white (I think) before being attached, and it also wants some liquid led weight inside it to weight it a bit.

 

So... at 19.45pm I started with this ...

 

 

and at 21:10 concluded with this ...

 

 

Really impressed with the kit - not surprising as its made for the society by Parkside i think.  Easy to go together, very nice finish and very little flash to be cleaned up on the moudlings.  Each only needed very minor dressing to sit right.  I also think that the level of 'easily applied' detail on the underframe is superb.

 

 

This has also confirmed to me that there is a really nice size to 3mm modelling - compared with a five-plan N gauge wagon here ... the height isnt a fair comparison as the Mogo doesnt have wheels.  

 

 

Overall very impressed and its confirmed that I think i might finally be on the right road.

 

Richie

 

 

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Delighted to say there has been further progress this week, as I have made a start on building my first etched brass coach - a Gresley full brake. As I'd asked some questions about the Gresley vehicles on a separate thread i'll document the build over on that thread, with references from here.

 

Now placed an order with Worsley Works for a BR Mk1 coache, due in a few weeks when the etches are back in stock, and an order is about to go into the 3mm Society for 14.2mm wheelsets, some wagon kits and some rail.  Nice to say things are slowly moving forwards, i've come up with a little 'dog bone' shaped test track, and got it designed in Templot.  It might not be scenified, and it is something of a tail chaser, but it is primarily for testing locos, running in chassis and giving me somewhere to play run trains to start with, rather than being a proper prototypical layout - that will follow in due course!

 

Richie
 

 

 

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Quick update, time constraints with work etc have taken their toll this past fortnight, but im hoping I may get some more progress with the coach tomorrow. Ahead of this, I've treated myself to a new temperature-controlled Antex 50w soldering iron. My previous one was a hand down from my dad, the bit was all over the place and I was struggling to find a make to get a replacement bit.

So hopefully the new one will see me for years to come. But a question to you kit-builders ... is there anything that you have to do with a new 'bit' before you use it, or is it just a dive in, pop some solder on and get on with the kit?

Tomorrow' task, is soldering the droplights and vents onto the Gresley coach sides.

Richie

[PaulaDoesTrains]

48 minutes ago, BetweenTheTunnels said:

But a question to you kit-builders ... is there anything that you have to do with a new 'bit' before you use it, or is it just a dive in, pop some solder on and get on with the kit?

 

Just make sure to tin it before using it to solder other stuff.

[Heacham]

15 hours ago, BetweenTheTunnels said:

Quick update, time constraints with work etc have taken their toll this past fortnight, but im hoping I may get some more progress with the coach tomorrow. Ahead of this, I've treated myself to a new temperature-controlled Antex 50w soldering iron. My previous one was a hand down from my dad, the bit was all over the place and I was struggling to find a make to get a replacement bit.

So hopefully the new one will see me for years to come. But a question to you kit-builders ... is there anything that you have to do with a new 'bit' before you use it, or is it just a dive in, pop some solder on and get on with the kit?

Tomorrow' task, is soldering the droplights and vents onto the Gresley coach sides.

Richie

 

Is it the new one that is mains but has a display and screwdriver adjustment in the handle?  I was wondering how these would be for modelling as the are about half the price of the full temp controlled station.  The bits are coated so never file them as that removes the coating just tin it and keep it clean with the damp sponge. 

 

 

Simon

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Hi Simon,

Thanks for that, its an Antex 660A soldering station with a TCS 50w iron.  I did look at the all in one things, but decided a dedicated base was probably better.

 

Richie

 

 

 

[BetweenTheTunnels]

As an indication of my dedication to make the journey work in 3mm, thanks to fellow 3mm modellers raiding their 'must do, will do, might do, wont ever do' kit stashes, I do now have a J6, J39, N2, V2 and A3 kit to complete. 

 

Unfortunately, the 3mm Society are intending to discontinue their LNER etched brass kits, with most modellers preferring 3D printed bodies, so have also arranged to acquire a B1 and B16 kit!  That lots should give me practice and keep my out of mischief for a bit!  In addition to needing further wagons and coaches! Still think my first loco to be built, will be a 3SMR J50 white metal body kit on a bespoke chassis, if only for practice.

 

Richie

Edited March 13, 2023 by BetweenTheTunnels

[whart57]

I don't think it's so much the Society discontinuing etched brass kits in favour of 3D printed bodies as the stocks of brass kits running out. The LNER kits were commissioned during the time of my predecessor but one as Chairman of the Society so that was probably in the last century given how long Peter White served as Chairman. At that time most etched brass kits were shot down modifications of 4mm scale kits and I would be surprised if that wasn't the case here. Worsley Works kits were the exception in that Allen Docherty produced his own art work. The arrangement then with the owner of the art work was for a batch of kits - 10 or 20 - to be produced, but ownership of the stencils stayed with the copyright owner. In many cases the owners have retired or even died since the initial batch was produced so it isn't possible to go back and ask for more. It's been a decade or more since I had close oversight of the Society's affairs but back in the day I know the shop still had more or less the full range of these LNER loco kits albeit only two, three or even just one example of each. Sales had dried up as members likely to want one had already bought theirs when the kits first came out, so there was no justification for re-ordering, even if that were possible.

[BetweenTheTunnels]

A quick update as I realised id posted over on WT, but forgotten to update on here!  Family and work life, challenges and problems have totally dominated this year, so little has been done. However, the mist is starting to clear as they say, so I am looking forward to getting back to this project. 

The Gresley coach hasn't progressed at all. I hit concerns in my mind about soldering the two halves of the bodyside together, then trying to get the tumblehome to come right. I concluded that it would be best to approach the Mk1 coach etches that I had acquired from Worsley Works first, as these have complete sides, learn how to get the tumblehome right with a complete side then come back to the Gresley. So that is my plan going forward, especially as the Worsley Mk1 etch has now arrived after a fair few months waiting on them.  I am determined to make both coaches operational!

I have also been gifted some wagon kits by various family members for the coming Christmas, so from Boxing Day onwards, I shall have more than enough to keep me busy! At the same time, I acquired some GWR wagon buffers from the 3mm Society shop to replace the damaged ones on the original Mogo kit, so that will be dealt with in the next few weeks I think. I have also acquired the body kit for a J50, which although it has an etched chassis with it, I am going to try scratch building my own chassis so that I can prove to myself that I can create such things for those chassis that dont exist as a kit, so plenty to keep me going over the winter months.

Thoughts have also turned to a little layout. It will be nothing more than for a little bit of shunting and photographing vehicles, so two or three sidings I think. I have ordered some rail and chairs with that effect in mind, which have now arrived. I am very tempted by the 3D printed options now available through Templot, and got tempted by a couple of very attractive Black Friday deals, so now have an FDM and Resin 3D printers sat here, although the boxes probably wont be opened until I finish work for Christmas.

 

In the odd spare 10-20 minutes that I've had recently, where it wasnt worth getting any modelling kit out, I have spent time considering and planning the electronics for the future 'Big Layout'.  This may seem a bit like jumping ahead, but its another 'I want to prove I can do it', and it will need a small test rig building, so a bit like building locos, coaches, wagons and track, it is another element to prove that I can achieve what I want with the final layout. I am a member of MERG, so have sought some help from their forum members, and I think things are slowly coming together, in that respect.  Although, having split it down in to small little tasks, it feels like im on the ECML heading for Edinburgh, and have just about reached Gasworks Tunnel!!

All this goes to show that the thread and the project isn't dead! Just other things have had to take precedence this year, and I am looking forward to actually doing some modelling again! Hopefully the next update will be more interesting and have some pictures!!

 

Richie
 

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Having acquired one of the 3mm Scale, LMS Brake Van kits from Cambrian Models (which I think were originally a society product?) I spent an enjoyable 40 minutes last night starting on the build.



I am probably about as far as I can go at the moment, due to the bearings I acquired from the Society Shop having been ‘requisitioned by the authorities’ along with the various wagon kits that were purchased.  Apparently they have been sent to Santa!!

 

Things have progressed further (but I forgot to do another photo) with the other inner end and both outer ends fitted, some led weight added and the roof fixed on.

A nice little kit to build for £11, and easy to put together - although but painting and lettering will be a job for the summer.  But after Christmas Day (hopefully!) when I have got the wheels and bearings, and finished the main build, I’ll now have two 3mm wagons, which means the next job will be making and fitting the DG couplings.  The plan being that these two will then become the ‘master height’ templates for everything else.

Merry Christmas to all

Richie

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Well I knew this thread would be slow and steady, but didnt quiet expect it to be snails pace! Things in life seem to take over very quickly and in some cases without you realising it. So to start with, here’s quick catchup and overview.

 

Those that have read the thread will recall back in February last year I joined the 3mm Society ( a really good move, and recommended to anyone who has not done so but has a bit of an interest! ) and as part of the membership pack received a free wagon kit - a GWR Mogo in my case.  Spurred on, I set about construction one evening, and pretty much built in over the next 90 minutes!  I only had three things outstanding, couplings, wheels and replacing a broken buffer, where the moulding on the kit had cracked, nothing major.

 

So we left the Mogo van in this condition.... (although the roof was not fixed on at this stage)

 

 

For various reasons, things got put on hold last year, although I did start construction of a Gresley coach using Worsley Works etches, which ground to a halt (although I will get back to it), and after somewhat of a delay in them arriving, there is a Mk1 etch here as well, although I have decided that going forward, I am going to look at drawing my own Mk1 etches up for the coaches that I want, as I’ve more control of what happens and when.

 

In mid-December last year, I finally got back into a bit of modelling as life started to calm down a bit, and acquired a 3mm scale LMS Brake Van kit from Cambrian Models.  This was about half built but then I needed some wheels, and I did not get round to finishing.  Cue Christmas and with the family undecided on what to buy me (read not got a clue!) I suggested some wagon kits from the 3mm Society and gave them a list of options from which they could chose, although being from the Society shop I needed to order them. I was nicely surprised when a list of what to buy came back, covering around 36 kits, together with the majority of wheels for them!  Santa is a nice man :)

 

So that brings us to February 2024, January being something of a write off with family health issues and work dominating proceedings.  I have got into the habit of enjoy 20-30 minutes modelling each evening around midnight, when the house is quiet everyone else is asleep and I can relax without needing to think about things.  A friend of mine recommends the little and often approach and finish each session with a clear idea of what your going to do next time.  I have to say it does seem to work and works well.

 

So job one was to put the wheels from Christmas into the Mogo Van.  Fairly simple job, although somewhere I have gone slightly off with the van construction as I think the wheel are at a slightly angle.  I cannot really see how as the frame sides to the kit seem to line up.  But it was the first built, so I can accept the odd cock-up. Learn from it, inwardly digest and move on.  I decreed the wagon was a bit on the light side, so I got acquired some led strip from eBay, and cut a piece about two inches long and glued to the inside of the van, before the roof was attached.  Its definitely heavier now, but I suspect it didnt need two inches!  

 

Then to turn to the damaged buffer - the 3mm Society offer some white metal buffers that look very nice, a little bit of cleaning up and they are very good representations in my view.  So a small hole for the shank to pass through and the buffer was fitted. Again, some ignorance on my side as to how the buffers from the kit fit means I think the buffer heads were pushed too far into the shank, with the result that they are all slightly different, and the new white metal one sits out a mm or two further than the plastic ones.  As a result, tonight’s job is to remove the remaining three plastic buffers, and replace them with white metal ones, which I think will look better.  

 

 

Net result is the GWR Mogo, which will be outshopped in a 1950s appearance, is now just awaiting couplings before going into traffic.  Although with no locos at the moment, that traffic isnt going to move far.

 

Next I moved back to the LMS brake van.  Now I am not sure what I did when I built this, but I managed to make a complete pigs ear of it.  The sides were bending inwards, and end panels were at very odd angles.  So, not being happy to leave it like that I spent quarter-of-an-hour and gently encouraged the various pieces to come apart, which they did fairly cleanly.  Another 10 minutes was spent cleaning up the ends and removing the glue where I could before starting the rebuild.

 

 

That was completed last night, the inner section of the van now looks far better being at 90 degree angles, an inch long piece of led strip was cut for the interior and glued in, the roof attached and yesterday morning, a 10-minute gap in things, allowed the van ends to be properly fixed in place, with the roof and vehicle floor as a guide.  The pin-point bearings were then added and last night the sides mounted to the floor.  Learning points here as well, as I think at some point the floor has warped ever so slightly (or was not flat to start with) as there is a slight gap between the frames and floor at one end.  I am thinking a little bit of filler before painting will fix the ‘draws your eye to it’ problem.  Wheels were added and are so free running I can’t quite believe it - running my finger across and letting them spin resulted in both axles revolving without any further interaction from me for around 39 seconds before stopping. Almost perpetual motion, but exactly whats needed at the end of the day. I am going to change the buffers for 3mm Society white metal ones again as I think they look better.

 

So that brings us to where I am.  Next task possibly this evening will be to look at how the automatic DG couplings fold up.  I’ve acquired an etch and the various parts from Andrew at Wizard Models for 3mm, so some experimenting with mounting and heights will likely be needed next.  After this I can pick one of the next kits out of the bag and make a start on that.  

 

Loco wise I have a white metal J50 tank body kit from 3SMR here to build.  I am currently drawing up the chassis prior to having it etched.  3SMR can provide a chassis etch, but I want to prove to myself I can go it and get it right.  The wheels were acquired from the 3mm Society as part of the Christmas Box, so I just need gears and motor to complete.  But that construction is a little way ahead as I want to make sure the chassis works before starting on the body.

 

I have also started work on a small A4 sized diorama, nothing complicated, just a couple of sidings set on an embankment, surrounded by trees.  Something to be able to test my loco on when built, to run the wagons up and down and see how they ride, and to photograph the stock.  Also a chance to try my hand at scenic modelling that I have not really done in many years! More on that coming up, but a sneak peak at the basic track layout and board design is below...

 

 

As a diorama, it does not get much simpler!  This is in essence two boards - Board A is just the double track running through scenary, (left half) while Board B is the double track, point and three sidings. (right hald).  The board design (as it currently stands, unfinished) using 9mm birch ply for the outer base of Board B is included below:

 

 

Hopefully the next update will not be that far off.

[BetweenTheTunnels]

On 21/02/2024 at 18:59, BetweenTheTunnels said:

So job one was to put the wheels from Christmas into the Mogo Van.  Fairly simple job, although somewhere I have gone slightly off with the van construction as I think the wheel are at a slightly angle.  I cannot really see how as the frame sides to the kit seem to line up.  But it was the first built, so I can accept the odd cock-up. Learn from it, inwardly digest and move on. 

 

Just to update readers, the issue with the Mogo Van being on an angle was initially traced to a problem with the wheelsets, this showed that the bearings were higher on one side than the other, but oddly the floor was level.  A question posed on the 3mm Society Groups.io email list, led us to the answer.  It transpieres that the underframe kit comes with both wooden and cast iron solebars.  There are two spures for the underframe, both being identical.  The aim is to use on solebar from each spure, not both solebars on one sprue, that I had done. 

 

Hence the Mogo had one wooden and one cast iron solebar, which was why it was lop-sided!  Thanks to a kind member on there a spare sprue is being sent to me so that two cast iron solebars can be fitted (both have currently been removed from my model) to allow the wagon to sit level.  My thanks to the Society Member concerned, you know who you are!

 

Baseboard

Quick update on the diorama baseboard shown above, hoping the design may go off to the CNC cutters end of this coming week or early the next, so we may be a couple of weeks away from the next update on here.

Edited February 25 by BetweenTheTunnels

[bradfordbuffer]

4 hours ago, BetweenTheTunnels said:

 

Just to update readers, the issue with the Mogo Van being on an angle was initially traced to a problem with the wheelsets, this showed that the bearings were higher on one side than the other, but oddly the floor was level.  A question posed on the 3mm Society Groups.io email list, led us to the answer.  It transpieres that the underframe kit comes with both wooden and cast iron solebars.  There are two spures for the underframe, both being identical.  The aim is to use on solebar from each spure, not both solebars on one sprue, that I had done. 

 

Hence the Mogo had one wooden and one cast iron solebar, which was why it was lop-sided!  Thanks to a kind member on there a spare sprue is being sent to me so that two cast iron solebars can be fitted (both have currently been removed from my model) to allow the wagon to sit level.  My thanks to the Society Member concerned, you know who you are!

 

Baseboard

Quick update on the diorama baseboard shown above, hoping the design may go off to the CNC cutters end of this coming week or early the next, so we may be a couple of weeks away from the next update on here.

no one likes a lopsided mongo!

keep plodding every day is a school day

[TT100 Diesels]

When fitting chassis / solebar etc to wagon kits, I have found that it is always good to try to dry run and check for square etc. Sometimes, floors don't fit in quite flat and the mouldings to locate the chassis / solebars sometimes require a bit of fettling to allow said components to seat properly. My air brake vans needed a lot of tweaks, chopping about and packing. They definitely aint Airfix type kits.

 

I have built a few vans for the society shop displays and quickly realised that most (but not all) require an element of "fitting". Its not a criticism, it is great they exist in the scale but kit building does require a careful, measured approach, dry run the fitting up if possible.

 

Late to the party re wooden and steel chassis, yes many kits have both included, but it can be confusing that there is one of each type on each sprue. 

 

Cheers

D.

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Thanks @TT100 Diesels,

The whole solebar fiasco was lack of knowledge on my part and i'll openly admit, probably a bit of a well its obvious where everything goes, I'll just build it rather than sitting and reading the instructions!!  One of the society members has kindly sent me a couple of spare sprues, which arrived this morning and look at them, it is now blately obvious of the two different solebars.   Moral of the story, read the instructions, look at the parts, wear the right glasses, and keep your Specsavers appointments up to date!!! 😉

 

I shall have a look at fitting the correct cast iron sole bars tonight.  I did last night begin wagon kit No. 3, which is a 12-ton BR Vent Van that I had not realised has a similar underframe kit to the Mogo, so i'll be careful not to make the same mistake with that.  My usual 20 minutes late evening of modelling is moving things on at a nice steady pace, although I still need some time to look at couplings!

 

 

Interestly, I ended up with a day off work  today - very rare for me on a Tuesday - but with little else needing to be done other than a swim at the local pool, I took two hours out, and opened the 3SMR J50 white metal body kit - another part of my Christmas Box from the family.

 

What started out as this ....

 

... turned into this ....

 

A few of the parts needed a bit of cleaning of flash, and a couple of areas will need further attention where the castings were pitted - the frame round cab door on one side will need to small plastikard replacement making. But overall i was really impressed with the though that had gone into the design.

 

It was not time consuming or difficult to put together and the representation of a J50 looks very good in my eyes.  Anyway at the end of the two hours, after a bit of fettling and several dry runs, the J50 body has been assembled with the help of some epoxy resin, and for a first white metal kit im really please.  One minor mistake where i did not get the tank front and front end as neatly aligned as I thought I had, which unfortunatley was not seen until after the Aradite has set, but. its very minor and nothing that a small bit of filler will sort out.  The big task now comes in designing the chassis, motor mount and DCC wiring loom for it - but im looking forward to that bit!

 

So some unexpected modelling time and a really positive outcome.

[TT100 Diesels]

Nice work, you are getting hold of a nice big "roundtuit" 👍.

 

A lovely crisp assembly of the J50. Oh yeah, forgot to mention above on wagon kits, sometimes, depending on the actual kit, the chassis / solebars need trimming a little to fit up into the underfloor area and tuck between the headstocks. This is another area to be wary of during assembly as it can also lead to wheelset misalignment (axle not quite 90 deg to chassis). How do I know?, got the tee shirt.

 

Cheers

 

D.