Motor wiring help please

[CarbonViper]

Hi all, 

long time lurker, getting back into the hobby and thought I would give the locos I have a service, as they have never or not been done for a long time.

I started with a diesel shunted (Hornby I think) and whilst cleaning I had a wire come loose and can’t work out where it is to be reattached. It was previously soldered but don’t know if that detail helps or not.

 

The brown wire (negative I’m assuming) runs under the motor but didn’t take a pic to see where it was attached, I took a pic of the underside to show the area it was originally.

if anyone can point me in the right direction so I know where to reattach it would be greatly appreciated.

 

many thanks

 

[melmerby]

The brown wire should be soldered to the pickups somewhere, which get the current from the insulated wheels

You should be able to see where on the pickup plate it was soldered.

 

Only one side has pickups, the return is through the chassis and non insulated wheels on the opposite side to the pickups.

The chassis is the standard Hornby Jinty chassis of a few years back.

 

 

[CarbonViper]

Brilliant, thank you so much, pretty sure I know where you are describing, I may take a pic tomorrow just to confirm it’s the right thing, but the way you are describing makes a lot of sense!!

thanks again!!

[DCB]

That breed of 1960/70s Triang Hornby generic Jinty chassis has the brown wire soldered to the copper contact strip.it needs to be neat or it can touch the chassis and short out.    The contact strip can with some difficulty be fitted the wrong way round and won't work the wrong way round, should bear on the flanged wheels with the plastic centre bushes.   Some have a tag to wire to but AFAIK these the wire passes through and is soldered to a rivet.

The front axle drive chassis have the brown wire soldered to a springy wire pick up, best of luck soldering one of them, I have never succeeded.

It looks like the tyres have shifted and looks badly under gauge, 13.8?    I space my old Triang / Hornby wheels by carefully removing the insulated wheel and putting a washer behind it and or behind the non insulated so they run nicely through Peco code 100.   The later silver plated wheels are truly awful. I have some and can't work out how to clean the badly work plating.  The old type polish nicely by spinning the tyres against a bit of sandpaper  

Edited April 15, 2023 by DCB

[CarbonViper]

Thanks both for the help, I managed to Solder the wire to the pick up which was an absolute pain but it stuck eventually and the loco works good as new.

 

I have another question that relates to essentially the same Jinty chassis..

On another model I have, I can see the coper pick up that is supposed to sit behind the wheel has worn away so does not touch the wheel anymore, its fine on the rear wheel, but the front there is now a gap, is there anything I can solder/fix to this so that the pick up sits behind the wheel correctly again?

I had a quick look online but could not see any helpful suggestions for this.

[TinTracks]

3 hours ago, CarbonViper said:

Thanks both for the help, I managed to Solder the wire to the pick up which was an absolute pain but it stuck eventually and the loco works good as new.

 

I have another question that relates to essentially the same Jinty chassis..

On another model I have, I can see the coper pick up that is supposed to sit behind the wheel has worn away so does not touch the wheel anymore, its fine on the rear wheel, but the front there is now a gap, is there anything I can solder/fix to this so that the pick up sits behind the wheel correctly again?

I had a quick look online but could not see any helpful suggestions for this.

 Hi, I've quite a few spare (old) complete Jinty pickups. They're left over from conversions to 3 rail running so not required. If I can find them you're welcome to one or two for free.

 If you'd like them pmail me your address.

 Hope this helps you. Regards, Rich

[melmerby]

Another way to provide "new" pickups as replacements is to use a piece of copper clad PCB (Printed Circuit Board) as the plate and phosphor bronze wire for pickups.

That is the usual way with kit builds.

 

[CarbonViper]

Thanks again both for the replies, I will look into the replacement in case I need to go down this route in the future.

 

TinTracks, I've sent you a pm, thank you so much for your offer 😁