Minitrix 12758 Class 152 circuit board question

[andyman7]

I have a collection on N gauge German outline models destined for a future project which I have picked up over the years, many secondhand when the opportunity arose at an agreeable price.
Recently I have been testing them and I have a Class 152 (model 12758) that is not working. It's entirely possible I bought it cheaply as a non-runner so it's no great disaster but I have been investigating the issue and have isolated the problem to the circuit board. It has a NEM 6 pin decoder socket, and the motor output circuits connect to the motor tabs on one pole via a small brass tab and on the other by a small electrical component that seems to be dead - no current is making it from the NEM socket board to the motor tab on that part of the circuit.

I've no doubt that Trix will sell me a replacement circuit board at some exorbitant charge, but a much more practical solution would be to unsolder the defective component and replace it either with a plain contact strip, or, provided someone can identify exactly what the component is, a suitable replacement.

I have added photos below, the problem is the part marked 5 X 5 (the latter inverted); any advice on what it is or other thoughts welcomed.  

Thanks!

[Nigelcliffe]

I'd just bridge the contact.    I'd expect the component is another inductor (as is the coil), part of the noise suppressors around the motor.  They cut down radio noise on DC running, and are usually a marginal hinderance than benefit with DCC running.  

 

- Nigel

[andyman7]

1 hour ago, Nigelcliffe said:

I'd just bridge the contact.    I'd expect the component is another inductor (as is the coil), part of the noise suppressors around the motor.  They cut down radio noise on DC running, and are usually a marginal hinderance than benefit with DCC running.  

 

- Nigel

Thanks. The board is unavailable as a spare anyway (I checked out of curiosity) so bridging looks to be the obvious solution 

[Dave John]

I think it is a resettable fuse, but it may have failed. 

 

Bridge it out and see what happens . 

[andyman7]

I have bridged the gap by removing the defective component and soldering in a plain brass tab made using the end of a spare pickup in my pile of random offcuts, the loco is now working well. Very pleased to get this running at nil cost. Thanks for the advice!