Looking for advice on Fox Transfers in 7mm

[bluestag]

Hey guys,

 

I'm trying to gear up for lining a LNWR Special Tank (saddle tank) using Fox Transfers.    I've never worked with Fox transfers.   They are waterslides, I know that much about them.    And Fox specifies a pair of British available varnishes to top them with.   I'm in the USA.   I can't get paints from Britain.   Anyone know what makes a successful varnish for Fox that won't destroy them?   I will need to experiment....Advice for how to apply the bally things would be appreciated.

 

 

[Type 2]

Make sure you have a good gloss surface to apply the lining then follow the Fox instructions on application - don't attempt to pull the decal off the backing paper, float it off with a water filled brush in as near the final position as possible.  Remove excess water with the edge of a paper towel and use a blunted cocktail stick to nudge the decals into the final position then roll a cotton bud along the length of the decal to expel any other water and air.

 

You may find it easier to cut the lining to more manageable lengths then but them up to each other on the model.

 

Finally seal with a good quality varnish, with you being in the states you should have easy access to the Vallejo range of sprays, Winsor and Newton Galleria range (can be applied very well with a brush) or even Pledge Revive It floor polish (formally Johnsons Klear), again can be applied by brush and dries completely level.

 

Above all, take your time!!!

[bluestag]

6 hours ago, Type 2 said:

Make sure you have a good gloss surface to apply the lining then follow the Fox instructions on application - don't attempt to pull the decal off the backing paper, float it off with a water filled brush in as near the final position as possible.  Remove excess water with the edge of a paper towel and use a blunted cocktail stick to nudge the decals into the final position then roll a cotton bud along the length of the decal to expel any other water and air.

 

You may find it easier to cut the lining to more manageable lengths then but them up to each other on the model.

 

Finally seal with a good quality varnish, with you being in the states you should have easy access to the Vallejo range of sprays, Winsor and Newton Galleria range (can be applied very well with a brush) or even Pledge Revive It floor polish (formally Johnsons Klear), again can be applied by brush and dries completely level.

 

Above all, take your time!!!

Yes, I do expect this to take quite a while.   I have seen the advice before about the gloss finish.  Looking at the photo, do you think it is gloss enough?

[Type 2]

7 minutes ago, bluestag said:

Yes, I do expect this to take quite a while.   I have seen the advice before about the gloss finish.  Looking at the photo, do you think it is gloss enough?

Without being critical, the finish looks quite grainy (may just be the photograph) so a good gloss varnish over the areas to be decaled would be beneficial

[bluestag]

23 minutes ago, Type 2 said:

Without being critical, the finish looks quite grainy (may just be the photograph) so a good gloss varnish over the areas to be decaled would be beneficial

Don't worry about being critical.  It was me that asked.   It was painted with a spray bomb.   I worry about building up too much finish.

[Hal Nail]

7 hours ago, bluestag said:

Don't worry about being critical.  It was me that asked.   It was painted with a spray bomb.   I worry about building up too much finish.

You can flatten a finish using 2000 grade wet and dry (which is virtually just rough paper) then polish it up with a hint of brasso or similar 

[bluestag]

2 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

You can flatten a finish using 2000 grade wet and dry (which is virtually just rough paper) then polish it up with a hint of brasso or similar 

I don't think it will be necessary.    I got some transfers on today, successfully I think.

[bluestag]

Making progress.   It seems that the surface need not be utterly glass smooth.   The Fox Transfers are adhering nicely to the slightly grainy surface.

 

Now I gotta work out what varnish to use.     I have some gloss (matching sheen to the black paint) lacquer varnish, but it attacked the lining.   Micro Sol make a product called Micro Sheen.   A low sheen water based varnish harmless to decals.   But how durable is it?

[bluestag]

Waiting on some circles for the splashers, and more corners, from Fox.   In the meantime, I've lined one side of the coal bunker and set it on the foot plate.    Trying to decide if to line the valance.   There is not room for the grey/cream line AND the red line.   Decades ago I read the advice that if a thing is too small to model, leave it off.   Or do I apply the grey/cream and leave off the red?

 

The spashers will be ticklish.   There is a red arc with a red horizontal line below, joined by a very small radius red curve, that will need to be brushed in.   That is eight opportunities to goof it up.

 

And what color to paint the bufferbeams?   I have a scarlet and a crimson from Humbrol, and have not chosen between them.   Then there is the "Indian red" of the interior of the cab.   Possibly Humbrol rust.

Edited May 28, 2023 by bluestag

[bluestag]

Looking for advice on colours.   The inside of the cab should perhaps be "Indian red"; I've applied Humbrol rust.   And the bufferbeam is to be red.    Here it is Humbrol 174.

 

One coat of each,    They will be a little denser after a second coat.

 

Opinions?