Simond Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Mind those wires!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) I always keep them insulated Simon! I should hate them to short...... (Ah! The white one is simply a feed-back for the charge monitoring. You can't really see the red positive against the red background. The white one just gets snipped off, as we don't use it.) Edited January 8, 2017 by Giles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 "Private Bloggs, I didn't see you at camouflage training this morning!" "Thank you sergeant!" Missed the red wire completely. I'm not familiar with this specific battery, but, is it 7.2V with 2 cells in series? if so, the white wire is connected to the jumper between them, and is used for balancing. I worked for a lithium battery company for the last 6 years, so could bore for England on the subject. Let me know if you need any info, but if it is as I suggest, then I recommend you use a balancing charger, and keep the white wire. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Hi Simon - no, it's a 1S, 3.7v, but the white wire is an Apple feature for charge monitoring, specially for their Nano....! It has noooooo relevance to us, and can safely be consigned to the dustbins of something or other... Indeed, it already has been.... Edited January 8, 2017 by Giles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Ah, ok, that's alright then! As I say, if you ever want to know... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Finally got the steering axle done. I make rather heavy weather of it, and it's taken the thick end of two days. The stub axles are steel blocks cross drilled and silver soldered with stub axle, steering arm and king pin. Now in situ with track rod in place And with its rebuilt trailer Still have the servo and all the electronics to fit, plus a bit more work on the trailer. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Well, the good news is that it basically works.... I've managed to get everything in the unit hooked up (to an external battery) and it drives. The steering however is reversed, so I need to get in touch with Micron to see if the servo can be reversed. (I know the ESCs can be, but I can see no reference to reversing P functions. The trailer still needs wiring etc. And lots of details..... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherplanet Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) It used to be possible to mix outputs, p1 and p2, ignore p1 and set p2 to reversed. this gave the desired reversed servo on the p2 pad. however the programming instructions stopped refering to this at version v503 (Rx45). they might still be hidden somewhere. If using a deltang transmitter you can reverse the direction of the stick by holding down the bind button whilst actuating the joystick full travel. but that is of no use to you if you are using the parkzone transmitters. as I was at the time too. Ive never tried it. but if all else fails you should be able to reverse the wires in the servo (motor and potentiometer). those little servos are easy to open up (i have done that bit) but not yet got to the rewiring. looking good though. Edited January 10, 2017 by otherplanet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 It used to be possible to mix outputs, p1 and p2, ignore p1 and set p2 to reversed. this gave the desired reversed servo on the p2 pad. however the programming instructions stopped refering to this at version v503 (Rx45). they might still be hidden somewhere. If using a deltang transmitter you can reverse the direction of the stick by holding down the bind button whilst actuating the joystick full travel. but that is of no use to you if you are using the parkzone transmitters. as I was at the time too. Ive never tried it. but if all else fails you should be able to reverse the wires in the servo (motor and potentiometer). those little servos are easy to open up (i have done that bit) but not yet got to the rewiring. looking good though. All useful info - thanks for that! I am using a Parkzone transmitter of course!!! My ultimate backstop is to dismantle the transmitter and swap over the wires on the joystick (assuming the innards are reasonably user-friendly). I don't propose to use the transmitter for another vehicle, so it's no loss..... However, if I was able to do it electronically, it would save a load of hassle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 I've had a look inside the transmitter, and needless to say, it isn't straight forward. The joysticks are mounted directly to the main PCB, and the only way to achieve a reversal here would be to carefully carve back the copper to isolate the relevant portions (which are very small) and solder in bypass wires. It could be done, but it isn't easy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherplanet Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 The servo is much easier, if it is the version I think it is. here is one I just happen to have dismantled for other reasons. 1 screw and a snap feature allows you seperate the case. just be careful to keep the gear stack intact. The tiny pcb has the brown red yellow at one end, and the motor and pot at the other 2 pads on one side and 3 on the other. The advantage of this will be if you have a transmitter failure at a show you will be able to bind to another. back to your preferred solution. I had a delve through the deltang website and noticed that the Rx6# receivers http://deltang.co.uk/rx63a-3-v610.htm do have the 'mix' function including reverse feature. see the features doc http://deltang.co.uk/rx610-features.htm scroll down to p pads and then 'mixed servo'. Of interest to earlier contributors of this thread. I note that it also features a slow servo feature. I dont know how slow, but would be interested to how well it works. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 .... if truth were known, I can't find my servo-slow at the moment! Today has been one step forward, two steps backwards. In order to position the servo as neatly as possible, it needed to be very close to the axle - which meant that the servo arm was facing the rear of the Unit. On full left lock, this meant the king pin, steering arm and drag link all neatly lined up - which resulted in the steering locking. This, in combination with the reversed action, persuaded me to strip the servo out completely, and convert it to the teeny linear servo - which would just squeeze in. Out it all came, more metal was ground out, and yet more, until I could get the linear servo in. The thing was re-wired, an new drag link made and fitted, and then tested. Nothing. In the middle of fitting and glueing, the negative wire had come away from the servo. That was fun to solder on in situ.... It finally worked, and a much neater arrangement. Great. Put it on the floor to drive it around, and it would turn right, but not left....... After more inspection and testing, it transpired that I was simply asking too much of this little servo, and it hadn't got the guts to turn the wheels when it had the weight of the vehicle on them. Nothing to be done but take it all out again, and refit the conventional servo further back with the steering arm facing forward, which will solve both problems...... What a day..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switcher102 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I haven't visited rmweb for some time, but Switcher102 if you are still looking for a solution, http://diyrc.com/picaxe-slowdown.htm may help. The picture shows something quite large, but if you have the experience of surface mount components then the size could be a lot smaller using these. Connectors would be thrown out and the wires soldered directly to the board. Wow, I also haven't visited RMweb for a long time and it's great to see Giles pursuing another road vehicle project. Thanks very much for the link Squirrel, all information gladly received, but I think this will have to go in My Favourites for a time when I am more experienced in electronics, which will hopefully be during this year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switcher102 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 He uses a different motor gearbox (something like this) but I'm not sure how much torque they give. These look interesting, but there is a vital piece of information missing, the gear ratio. You need at least 100:1. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 I've finally beaten the thing. I shall probably now put it to one side and finish the detailing later (the trailer needs a light board and tie- down hooks, and the whole thing needs weathering.) But at lest now it works properly. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Come on Giles, what about the Working lights? Indicators? Windscreen wipers... ? Seriously, very good. Have you mastered reverse yet? Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 I left some wiring in for brake lights, if I can be bothered..... Yes, I can reverse the thing (no the steering works the right way round!) but not when I'm trying to operate two joysticks with one hand and film with the other!!!! At some stage I'll have to make a proper video.... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switcher102 Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Another brilliant job Giles. You are an inspiration. I still haven't got around to road transport myself yet, too many other modelling projects but I did make a New Year's resolution to, and at 14 days in, my other NY resolutions are surviving, which for me is pretty good going. I look forward to an on-layout video. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 The TK is now fully complete aside from weathering. The trailer had its tie-downs and light board, and all is the correct colour, and the unit's roof was stripped of the white and sprayed blue. Ironically, I fitted working brake lights to the trailer (wired to the correct servo output, as per instructions) but they are on when driving, and go off when slowing down! I shall therefore simply snip the wire...... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Giles try connecting the ground wire from the lights to live? hth simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I see what you mean....... I'll give it a try..... Thanks for the tip Simon - well see if it works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Sadly that didn't work, so I've disconnected them for now at least.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Are they leds? If so you'll have to reverse them! S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I've finally beaten the thing. I shall probably now put it to one side and finish the detailing later (the trailer needs a light board and tie- down hooks, and the whole thing needs weathering.) But at lest now it works properly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSG_qH48Jag We need a "Freakin Awesome" button ...& an "I give up" one as well 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 They are indeed Simon - I won't have time tomorrow, but I'll rewire on Saturday and try that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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