Track choice

[ACR2023]

Evening everyone,

 

I am hoping to start laying track shortly but have been shocked by the cost of track. My layout which is primarily an end to end design which incorporates a double helix to a lower level fiddle yard.

 

I am planning to use Peco Streamline Code 75 Bullhead track in the scenic areas, but wondered if I could save money by using less expensive track, i.e. Peco Code 100 for the fiddle yard.  I know that Peco make an adapter to go from code 75 to code 100 and thought that if I could use code 100 for the helix and fiddle yard I would only need to use 2 adapters and that they could be hidden / disguised in the approach to the helix.

I would appreciate your advice please……. Is it sensible to mix track codes on a layout?

 

I don’t want to compromise on the reliability of the layout, but the potential savings are not insignificant!

 

 

Thanks for your input

 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

That's exactly what I do. Running reliability is equivalent, although the only code 100 Steamline points I use 'unrestricted' are live crossing Large and Medium radius and Large Y. The curved points are used in the trailing direction only and solely for freight operation.

 

Joining the different codes: put a code 100 rail joiner on the code 100 as usual, and crush the free end flat. Solder on half a code 75 railjoiner (best cut in half with a cutting disc so it isn't crushed). Job done, cheaply, which is the whole idea. ;)

 

[MR Chuffer]

I've done this but Code 75 flatbottom to code 100 in fiddle yard/traverser, see https://peco-uk.com/products/transition-track, 4 in a pack. Can probably be bodged for bullhead.

[DCB]

Any old code 100 plain line  tat should be fine if the stock will run on code 75.  New Track has been very expensive  post covid, so second hand or cheap and nasty  is an option where you are using modern small flange wheels.  Cheap Crap track such as some Hornby and the old GT and some Lima  is no good for heritage stock from the 1970s due to poor flange clearance at the rail fixing so is  a good buy for hidden areas where  code 75 is used for  visible areas.  The cheap non Peco and set track points are probably best avoided.     Tight curves are usually easier with set track,it does not kink like flexi,  

[ACR2023]

Morning….

 

thank you for confirming, much appreciated!

 

Happy modelling 

[Wheatley]

Another vote for the crushed code 100 fishplate with half a code 75 fishplate soldered on here. It works with both the code 75 flatbottom and bullhead fishplates, or you can force the bullhead track into the FB fishplates with a bit of effort.

 

The Peco converter tracks are quite fragile as all the strength is in the plastic web between the sleepers, the rails being two separate bits of track with a wire soldered between them. I was using them for temporary lash-ups between the scenic bit and fiddle yard (having done exactly what you're proposing) and I broke most of them eventually. Anyone familiar with the old Hornby Super 4 to System 6 converter tracks will be disappointed, they were bomb proof !