Edwinstowe Station... LD&ECR

[gingerangles]

Have been working on the Signal Box Diagram in the background... as mine is going to be upside down and modified slightly.  Here's what I have so far compared to the original:

 

 

 

A bit of tidying up required but I'm quite please with that.

[gingerangles]

On 22/03/2024 at 22:12, t-b-g said:

 

My layout is a fictional terminus based on the Sheffield District Railway. In real life, they had a goods station at Attercliffe in Sheffield and they had started to build a passenger station nearby when they obtained running powers into Sheffield Midland. In return, the Midland was given running powers onto the LDECR. My period is just after 1907, when the GCR took over the LDECR, allowing me GCR, LDECR and MR liveries. The idea is that the passenger station was built before the running powers were agreed and lack of capacity at Sheffield Midland led to both companies using my station instead of Sheffield Midland. I am mainly a GCR/LDECR fan but I recently acquired a quantity of lovely MR stock, so the joint running became attractive. The MR used to run to Edwinstowe using their running powers, which ended there, hence the terminating trains. Pretty much everything is kit or scratchbuilt.

 

The only building finished so far is the signal box, based on features from several LDECR boxes. I attach snaps of one of my MR trains plus the signal box.

 

Hi @t-b-g - can I also ask what you're using to construct the station building... is it printed brick on card or plasticard or similar?

[t-b-g]

5 minutes ago, gingerangles said:

 

Hi @t-b-g - can I also ask what you're using to construct the station building... is it printed brick on card or plasticard or similar?

 

Most of my buildings are from plasticard. In this case, it is embossed brick on a thicker shell. The brickwork is Slater's embossed English Bond, which is correct for many railway companies, including the LD&ECR. I don't know whereabouts in the  world you are but I will be doing a demo on building construction at EXPO EM in May, at Bracknell. I will have the buildings with me and I will be demonstrating my construction methods.

 

Regards Tony

[gingerangles]

6 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

Most of my buildings are from plasticard. In this case, it is embossed brick on a thicker shell. The brickwork is Slater's embossed English Bond, which is correct for many railway companies, including the LD&ECR. I don't know whereabouts in the  world you are but I will be doing a demo on building construction at EXPO EM in May, at Bracknell. I will have the buildings with me and I will be demonstrating my construction methods.

 

Regards Tony

Thanks, that must take some work round the arches etc.

 

Bracknell is a bit of a romp for me to be honest... I think you ought to film it 😁
 

[5BarVT]

On 08/04/2024 at 09:55, gingerangles said:

Do you have any preferred method of rail alignment over joints?

For hidden areas, 12mm No.4 slotted brass CSK with pilot holes (after a few broke when I was screwing them in).  For scenic areas I have some No.1 screws as the head size is the same as code 100 rail.  Other just use larger and cut off the excess with a cutting disc after soldering.

Make sure the screw head and the rail bottom are well tinned.

Paul.

[gingerangles]

4 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

For hidden areas, 12mm No.4 slotted brass CSK with pilot holes (after a few broke when I was screwing them in).  For scenic areas I have some No.1 screws as the head size is the same as code 100 rail.  Other just use larger and cut off the excess with a cutting disc after soldering.

Make sure the screw head and the rail bottom are well tinned.

Paul.

 

Thanks @5BarVT I'll go for that I think 👍

[gingerangles]

We'll... a productive weekend... or so I thought 🤦‍♂️

 

I've been steadily making good progress on the baseboards and even sticking down track underlay and mocking up trackwork to add droppers before finally taking the plunge and gluing down the track... to the point I thought it was time I invested on some point motors so I could drill the holes appropriately for those.

 

I've built my boards using ply on top of a 70 x 20 mm framework. Thinking that would be plenty. But the DCC Concepts Colbalt motors I've gone for stand proud of this dept wise! 😵‍💫🤬

With the cables attached if I ever needed to slide the boards I'd be ripping the motors off.

 

So... what now 😳 

What do folks normally use for baseboards? Am I only imagining this is a problem or does everyone else use bigger timber for there baseboard construction. Any helpful suggestions as to corrective action? (They would be very well received!)

[gingerangles]

1st pic of the motor problem

2nd pic the general 'progress' 🤦‍♂️😂

[gingerangles]

What I came up with as a solution... ply 'runners' 🤞👍

Edited April 18 by gingerangles

[5BarVT]

On 14/04/2024 at 20:48, gingerangles said:

So... what now 😳 

What do folks normally use for baseboards? Am I only imagining this is a problem or does everyone else use bigger timber for there baseboard construction. Any helpful suggestions as to corrective action? (They would be very well received!)

I used to do 2x1 framing which was enough to hide an H&M solenoid.  When I moved to tortoise it was a new layout so I went for 4” ply frames (actually 100mm, but I’m so old that I’m bilingual!).  None of the helps you, but your solution is very elegant.  Well done.

Paul.

[gingerangles]

On 16/04/2024 at 17:42, 5BarVT said:

I used to do 2x1 framing which was enough to hide an H&M solenoid.  When I moved to tortoise it was a new layout so I went for 4” ply frames (actually 100mm, but I’m so old that I’m bilingual!).  None of the helps you, but your solution is very elegant.  Well done.

Paul.

Thanks, 100mm timber would certainly have meant I'd not had the issue, even with my fix it'll still be tight and I'll need to make sure the cables from the motors are tucked up out of the way. 

The strips do have one thing going for them though as they aid the sliding of the boards and would probably be something I'd actually incorporate in the future I think.

Edited April 17 by gingerangles

[gingerangles]

Panel lighting and point protection planning...

[gingerangles]

Decided I'm going to incorporate Carr Vale / Bolsover Viaduct at the far end. Looking for blue brick potential options if anyone has any suggestions?

[gingerangles]

Got some of the DCC Concepts Colbalt point motors installed. Made myself a small template for the install which made things easy, using the plastic of one of the bits I've bought... the snips I think.

 

Quite impressed with all this DCC stuff. It really does look to be very simple.

 

The motors are quite loud though so I'm not sure how 'better' they are over solenoids.

 

I seem to have a little bit of an issue with the peco bullhead slips and double slips in that when the springs are removed from the points they leave the blades very loose. So much so they'll actually move away from the rail they are fixed to by a mm or so until the tie bar prevents them going further. I've seen some use styrene strips to resolve this on other points so will be giving that a go but it's a little disappointing from peco really.

[gingerangles]

On 27/03/2024 at 14:35, t-b-g said:

 

That dates back to LDECR times, when the bay was in use and was available for passenger trains. The LH signal was the starter for the bay. The bay was later taken out of use and the signalling altered. You can see the remains of the other doll of the bracket on the signalling diagrams. I can't recall the dates when these changes happened. The signal in the photo is an LDECR bracket, with somersault arms. I have been looking for a decent photo of one of them for a while, so thanks for posting it!

 

Saw these and though of you @t-b-g 😂

 

[gingerangles]

And these...

 

Referenced from "Chrsterfield to Lincoln"  by Vic Mitchell and Keith Smith.

[gingerangles]

Got hold of a could of old Railway Modellers today with articles on a Class D and a 5 plank wagon...

 

Interesting stuff 👍

 

Edited April 22 by gingerangles
Got number of wagon planks wrong 😃

[PMP]

On 21/04/2024 at 08:37, gingerangles said:

Got some of the DCC Concepts Colbalt point motors installed. Made myself a small template for the install which made things easy, using the plastic of one of the bits I've bought... the snips I think.

 

Quite impressed with all this DCC stuff. It really does look to be very simple.

 

The motors are quite loud though so I'm not sure how 'better' they are over solenoids.

 

I seem to have a little bit of an issue with the peco bullhead slips and double slips in that when the springs are removed from the points they leave the blades very loose. So much so they'll actually move away from the rail they are fixed to by a mm or so until the tie bar prevents them going further. I've seen some use styrene strips to resolve this on other points so will be giving that a go but it's a little disappointing from peco really.

When they are fixed down the loose element will be negated. The pin throw on the point motor can be adjusted with the sliding adjuster bar, this then holds the blades tight to the stockrails. 
 

Looking closer at that slip there’s another thing that needs adjustment.

The fish plate at this joint needs reconnecting to the rail, that will help with the blade positioning, and prevent derailments.

Edited April 22 by PMP
Addition

[gingerangles]

19 minutes ago, PMP said:

When they are fixed down the loose element will be negated. The pin throw on the point motor can be adjusted with the sliding adjuster bar, this then holds the blades tight to the stockrails. 
 

Looking closer at that slip there’s another thing that needs adjustment.

The fish plate at this joint needs reconnecting to the rail, that will help with the blade positioning, and prevent derailments.

 

Hi @PMP it's the bit you've circled that it the main issue. With the slips it seems the spring also served to keep the switch rails pressed back into position and prevent the fish plates coming loose. The fish plates aren't movable and seem to be fixed to the switch rails (all bar one I have found anyway). The fact the switch rail moves also causes a poor fit against the stock rail so needs sorting for both reasons.

I've got some appropriately sized styrene strip on order to see if I can resolve with that 👍

 

[5BarVT]

12 hours ago, gingerangles said:

 

Hi @PMP it's the bit you've circled that it the main issue. With the slips it seems the spring also served to keep the switch rails pressed back into position and prevent the fish plates coming loose. The fish plates aren't movable and seem to be fixed to the switch rails (all bar one I have found anyway). The fact the switch rail moves also causes a poor fit against the stock rail so needs sorting for both reasons.

I've got some appropriately sized styrene strip on order to see if I can resolve with that 👍

 

Once you’ve got the switch rail back in position there are two things you can do.  One is a suitable piece of styrene strip between the toes side of the tie bar and the adjacent sleeper (as you have described).  Can’t be too tight as you still want the switches to move!

The second is to fit the cobalts (I use tortoise, but same difference) slightly offset towards the heel of the switch blade so that the operating wire is constantly pressing the switch rail back into position.

They are not incompatible, so you can do both.

Paul.

[gingerangles]

Couple of viaduct progress pics...

 

Edited April 23 by gingerangles

[gingerangles]

IDK why this is upside down 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️😂

[gingerangles]

And here is a video of the point problem with one of the slips post motor install. The motor wire helps but doesn't solve the problem so a bit of styrene will be required.

 

Excuse the dodgy finger... it was on the wrong end of a drill bit last weekend 😂

Edited April 23 by gingerangles

[gingerangles]

0.75 x 0.75 mm styrene strip seems to be the solution to the slip problem... a short length superglued in after calving off the little lugs that retained the spring seems to have done the trick.

 

Not all the movement stopped but certainly enough to prevent the switch rails not properly closing with the main rails.

[gingerangles]

Starting to have a play at creating some buildings from scratch... paper modelling a la the @Ron Heggs technique posted on here...  quite chuffed for a 1st attempt.