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Derby Lightweight body removal


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I recently acquired a Bachmann Derby Lightweight dmu which is fine in most respects but a little  noisy and probably needs some lubrication. It came with no instructions so, before I break something, can anybody tell me how to do this? Thanks

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Had a look at mine - seems as there is just 1 screw at the front of the front (unpowered) bogie - may need to remove the bogie to get at it!

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If you look at the underside of the cab there is one cross head screw.

IMG_2319.jpeg.1ca877a98375f01dd2eeffc67dc08275.jpeg

 

you can access it by removing the forward wheelset or removing the bogie.


IMG_2320.jpeg.5e9e8235a69cc619b9920bd27394f6e4.jpeg

 

Once you’ve undone the screw use shims to slide between the body and chassis to remove it, it’s a tight fit.

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Credit cards or rulers will do as the shim.

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you can then unscrew the bogie to drop it out for any maintenance.

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On 06/05/2024 at 10:41, Les Bird said:

I recently acquired a Bachmann Derby Lightweight dmu which is fine in most respects but a little  noisy...

If you suspect it had little to no prior operation and you have as yet not given it much track time; I would suggest a couple of hours running, alternating direction every quarter hour or thereabouts, may satisfactorily 'quiet' the mechanism by distributing the factory lubricant in the gear train. The mechanism design is inherently quiet running, if some noise reduction isn't apparent within the first hour, then would be the time to look inside.

 

Not to discourage you from taking the top off for a look inside - and it will be necessary for decoder fitting if that's on the to do list - but my fumble fingers always knock off a piece of underframe detail; fortunately repair is simple.

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22 hours ago, PMP said:

Once you’ve undone the screw use shims to slide between the body and chassis to remove it, it’s a tight fit.

 

Good info P.

Might be appropriate to drop this link in here. As discussed over the last six months or so; this is how my test mule runs. Drive bogie and motor is in the second car with the body off. Small ZImo decoder used before the sound goes in. At last we can see clear through the guards compartment.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XijJJ8gV2V4

 

P.

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After reading all the helpful hints on here, I managed to remove the body (why are manufacturers so obsessed with clips when screws are so much easier?) Certain parts are still not easily accessible for lubrication and putting it back together (the drive shaft) tried my patience a little.

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