Les Bird Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 I recently acquired a Bachmann Derby Lightweight dmu which is fine in most respects but a little noisy and probably needs some lubrication. It came with no instructions so, before I break something, can anybody tell me how to do this? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Radford Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/page/instructions Class 108 PDF - about 3 quarters down the page. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Bird Posted May 6 Author Share Posted May 6 Now why didn't I think of that? Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Radford Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 Had a look at mine - seems as there is just 1 screw at the front of the front (unpowered) bogie - may need to remove the bogie to get at it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted May 7 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 7 If you look at the underside of the cab there is one cross head screw. you can access it by removing the forward wheelset or removing the bogie. Once you’ve undone the screw use shims to slide between the body and chassis to remove it, it’s a tight fit. Credit cards or rulers will do as the shim. you can then unscrew the bogie to drop it out for any maintenance. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 On 06/05/2024 at 10:41, Les Bird said: I recently acquired a Bachmann Derby Lightweight dmu which is fine in most respects but a little noisy... If you suspect it had little to no prior operation and you have as yet not given it much track time; I would suggest a couple of hours running, alternating direction every quarter hour or thereabouts, may satisfactorily 'quiet' the mechanism by distributing the factory lubricant in the gear train. The mechanism design is inherently quiet running, if some noise reduction isn't apparent within the first hour, then would be the time to look inside. Not to discourage you from taking the top off for a look inside - and it will be necessary for decoder fitting if that's on the to do list - but my fumble fingers always knock off a piece of underframe detail; fortunately repair is simple. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasdavetheroad Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 My Derby Lightweight has a removeable battery so I did not replace the screw and removed the side 'catches'. The body is still a comfortable fit and not loose. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 22 hours ago, PMP said: Once you’ve undone the screw use shims to slide between the body and chassis to remove it, it’s a tight fit. Good info P. Might be appropriate to drop this link in here. As discussed over the last six months or so; this is how my test mule runs. Drive bogie and motor is in the second car with the body off. Small ZImo decoder used before the sound goes in. At last we can see clear through the guards compartment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XijJJ8gV2V4 P. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Bird Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 After reading all the helpful hints on here, I managed to remove the body (why are manufacturers so obsessed with clips when screws are so much easier?) Certain parts are still not easily accessible for lubrication and putting it back together (the drive shaft) tried my patience a little. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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