oldknotty Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 A while back one of the magazines did step by step article on building the Fell diesel kit in O scale , can any one point me to it please as I am about to embark on a OO scale one myself !!! Has anyone built this kit by the way ?? Thanks martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Martin, August 2007 Model Rail, build described by Ian MacDonald, 4mm kit from A1 models. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzer models Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Martin, August 2007 Model Rail, build described by Ian MacDonald, 4mm kit from A1 models. Ian MacDonald is macgeordie on here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/user/6711-macgeordie/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldknotty Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 Thanks guys much appreciated :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldknotty Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 Having a hell of a problem with this kit . I have tried four different kinds of solder and the same amout of flux's but I cannot get the thing to solder .I have cleaned the brass with a scratch brush , a brass wheel on my dremmel and sand paper but still no flow and no solid join just big globs of solder :-( Very frustrating . I have built a lot of kits and NEVER had this problem any ideas or suggestions ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Did you clean with a solvent to remove any grease? - otherwise it sounds like not enough heat getting to the brass from the iron (I'd check you iron and satisfy you are not going insane by test soldering some old cleaned scrap brass from a different source. maybe if that doesn't work you need a new tip - new iron - new hobby Not using a temperature controlled unit ? (turned down low Not using a tip that has previously been used for low melt solder ? (contaminated Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Are you using Carrs solder? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Martin, I'd go for the iron check first. If you can get yourself a 50w beast, all the better although skilled use of a 25 might get you by. I only offer this from personal experience as I was having similar problems a few months ago, cured by introducing a 50W Antex to the field! If you're keeping the job nice and clean (and it sounds like you are!), then I reckon you just need more heat on the job, cured by the above remedy! I'd mirror the boys' advice above though and make sure you're using a decent flux too though if you've never had trouble before, I'd still say the problem's in the iron dept! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldknotty Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 Thanks Guys , yes i was doing some low melt soldering the other day so that may be a problem ! Also i use Carrs when I can get it here but otherwise I use a good substitute that seems to work very well for me . ( except in this instance ) I have always used this 25 watt iron and it had stood me in good stead but maybe I will have go at a 50 watt just to see what happens they are not that expensive here :-) I will let you all know how i go on when i get cracking here thanks again for the tips much appreciated !! martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Some Thoughts...... Are your supplies of solder newish? in which case they might just be lead free,(high tin/pure tin/ added silver), types, and need more heat to melt, and "tin", the surfaces, than the older traditional solder formulas. Traditional solder was 60/40 tin/lead alloy, but lead is being fazed out, and pure tin solder is now common, and sold as electrical solder, often without any warning it is quite a bit different. Using an iron with low melt solder, (Cerrobend in the States), does not really contaminate it, the low melt solder alloy contains bismuth, and this alloys fine with both 60/40 and pure tin. Indeed some electrical tin solder contains bismuth any way, so don't worry about the tip cross contaminating, it simply does not actually matter. However, to prepare the iron after using low melt, 60/40 or tin should be melted with flux to "normalise" the tip. Also just for information, you can smelt your own custom solder, just mix the tin/lead, bismuth, in the proportions you want!! (it's not quite that simple, but it works to lower 60/40 to 148oc, by adding about 15% bismuth metal, (which is sold separately as pellets). And often forgotten is the brass may be wrong type, perhaps a mistake at the etchers, having used a wrong grade. Some brass has extra copper, added nickel, or silver added, and can have phosphorous alloys added to render the brass extra springy, but it's by product is it does not take any solder so well. Brass comes in forms from soft to very hard, and the range is the same for ease of soldering, the really hard stuff is not easy to tin or solder to. Most brasses till recently had added lead alloy, and with the reductions in lead this has made some brass more difficult to solder than before. Add in the changes to the solder, and you have the explanation of why some brass fails to solder like it used to. However in the end, all brasses will solder to 60/40 with an acid flux, Bakers, or the modern "Citric acid safe" types sold in the States. With the 50 watt iron the pure tin solder should flow easily, use an acid liquid flux if possible, the extra heat needed indicates to my mind the solder you have is a "tin type", not traditional 60/40. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 And.... I am interested in the Fell, having a P4 version under the bench awaiting a proper chassis for many years! ......anybody know of decent drawings for the loco that are available on line? or a book reference? Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Theres a drawing of the Fell in 'Drawn & Described' by Ian Beattie, published by Peco, which first appeared in the Railway Modeller August 1991. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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