Peco Code 75 points

[smyles1]

Am I the only person to have problems with Peco code 75 points. Does the frog (crossing) depend for electrical continuity on the switch blades making contact with the stock rails. I find that frequently the loco stops on the point but when I connect the blade to the ajacent stock rail with a screwdriver it moves again. Should I wire the blade to the stock rail or what? I am trying to avoid change-over switches and more wiring. I expected Peco points to just work without fiddling, previously I have built my own points from C&L components with change-over switches for frog polarity.

Thanks for advice.

Mike

[smudgeloco]

It sounds like the little tang on the switch-blade needs slight adjustment. Also, a bit of emery paper folded over and swiped between the blade and the stock rail will ensure a clean connection.

The little tang makes contact with the underside of the stock-rail.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

There is no little tang on code 75; if used as supplied you are relying on a low pressure face contact for electrical continuity, or as Mike has discovered non-continuity. Really they do need to have the switch rails isolated from the crossing, and each bonded to the adjacent stock rail; and a separate switch installed on the operating mechanism for crossing polarity. Peco would do themselves a favour by making that clear on the packaging in my opinion...

[Kenton]

Am I the only person to have problems with Peco code 75 points. Does the frog (crossing) depend for electrical continuity on the switch blades making contact with the stock rails. I find that frequently the loco stops on the point but when I connect the blade to the ajacent stock rail with a screwdriver it moves again. Should I wire the blade to the stock rail or what? I am trying to avoid change-over switches and more wiring. I expected Peco points to just work without fiddling, previously I have built my own points from C&L components with change-over switches for frog polarity.

Thanks for advice.

Mike

 

 

Do you use those useless peco track pins anywhere on the point ?

The points should never be pinned down as this will distort the geometry.

 

What sort of track leaves the points - if you are using flexitrack (I hope so) then any curve is going to have a tendency to pull the point out of alignment ensure that any such curve is well laid preferably with easment curves and firmly glued down.

 

Has the track been ballasted - if so is there some grain of ballast stuck in the blades

 

Is the spring still operating.

 

If you have motorised the point - is the point motor dead center of the tie bar at center of throw.

 

Has the track been painted - then make sure no paint is on the blade contact points

 

Is the track dirty - using a nasty little rubber leaving debris in the gap

 

Has the blade been bent - by running a track rubber over it

 

... just a few common causes off the top of my head

 

but personally I would have started as you mean to continue power the frog from the point switch .. then all such problems become a thing of the past and something only others experience.

[smyles1]

Thanks for replies to my points problem. I have used fine wet and dry paper to polish the contact areas but the problem still occurs. Perhaps I will try to rig up some sort of stronger spring to hold point blades over. Flexitrack leaving the point rails is glued down and doesn't have any railjoiners being separately fed electrically.I really dont want to add more electric wiring as I just change the point by hand, pushing the blades over. I will continue experimenting.

Mike

[Kenton]

I really dont want to add more electric wiring

Yet you suggested this option

Should I wire the blade to the stock rail or what?

Which is a major fix that is ONLY required if you have old Triang/Hornby stock that has big wheels that cause shorts on the point - it also involves more than just wiring the blade to the stock rail.

 

 

 

You should avoid all abrasives on rails it only makes matters worse in the end. Peco 75 and all of their other track products are very reliable if handled with care. Usually damage is caused by applying to much mechanical stress or simply dirt.

 

as I just change the point by hand, pushing the blades over.

By this I assume that you mean that you move the point using the outside of the tie bar and not by applying pressure to the switch rails themselves.

 

 

I assume that you are running DC.

 

Is it happening with one particular loco or all of them?

 

You say that the flexitrack that leaves the point is electrically isolated from it - with no rail joiners. What none at all ?

How is power arriving at the point then, have you droppers from the stock rails only ?

 

I would always use joiners on Peco track - just make sure you use the right ones at the right join - metal or insulated. These "fishplates" although not prototypical and a bit of an eyesore serve the important act of keeping the rail ends in line as well as. in the case of the metal ones, provide metal continuity.

 

If you are using droppers from the stock rails on a completely isolated point I would check to see if you have an electrical dry joint - we may be blaming the switch rail to stock rail contact when it is something else.

[Guest Jim Read]

I make my own points, have no experience of anything readymade, but (always one of those isn't there :-) all I do is use a 'U' shaped piece of thick copper wire, looped under the baseboard, with flats at each end, the blades contact with these and a wire from this is then connected to the frog. If contact does fail bending the wire a bit restores it and all above the baseboard, especially useful at exhibitions.

 

Jim

[bike2steam]

When using peco code 75 points, unless using 2ft rad points, always wire the stock rail to the adjacent switch rail, I always find the small wire put in by Peco too weak, even loose.The closure, wing rails, and nose (frog) are all wired together for polarity. There is an insulating gap between where the switch becomes the closure, except on 2 ft rad, but if you want realism who the hell uses 2ft rad ???? Otherwise, as Kenton says.