Using old Triang Uncouplers on sidings?

[GreenDiesel]

I recently bought some Triang System 3 and 4 track which also included a few Triang Uncouplers. These uncouplers are mounted right inside the track. To uncouple any good wagons, you simply need to stop the wagons’ couplers right over the old Triang uncouplers and simply slide the lever (on the track) which raises up the couplers. Then, when the loco then hauls the train away, the goods wagons uncouple very nicely!

 

I was so pleased by how easy and well this works that I bought a few more of these uncouplers as well as some Triang track coverters. The latter attach to the old Triang track at one end and modern code 100 Peco track at the other.

 

I’ve now relaid the track of my layout’s two main sidings using these Triang uncouplers and bits of coverter track. So far, this is working fairly well. I just have to glue or nail down the sections of track a little better. A minor problem is that — because the Triang uncouplers are basically code 120 or something like that — some wagons will roll away when I don’t want them to. The Triang uncouplers basically create a small hill on the sidings!

 

Does this sound clever or archaic? With a little tweaking, I think I can get this system to work quite well.

 

FYI, I’ve tried other uncoupling methods such as the Kirby method (I think that’s its name) but found it a little finnicky. I had trouble gluing the right kind of staples onto the Bachmann couplers and finding the right strength of magnets to mount under the track.

 

Rob

[Jenny Emily]

I think Peco sell uncoupling ramps that do much the same thing and can be added to their range of track.

 

I use the Bachmann narrow type couplings on all my stock, and have a homemade device that is a flat piece of plastikard glued to an 'L' shaped bit of sprue that allows me to uncouple wagons with the same effect without needing ramps on the track. It works okay and means I haven't had to change all the couplings on my stock.

[GreenDiesel]

I think Peco sell uncoupling ramps that do much the same thing and can be added to their range of track.

 

I use the Bachmann narrow type couplings on all my stock, and have a homemade device that is a flat piece of plastikard glued to an 'L' shaped bit of sprue that allows me to uncouple wagons with the same effect without needing ramps on the track. It works okay and means I haven't had to change all the couplings on my stock.

 

 

Thanks. I've seen Hornby uncouplers ... They have to be placed (inserted) right into the track and don't have the lever that you can easily slide to get the uncoupler to work. I thought the Peco ones were similar but I will still check their website (or contact them) to see what they offer.

 

I also recently made an "uncoupler paddle." There were some instructions on how to make and use this in a Hornby Magazine issue a few issues back. I've been able to get this to work fairly well, although I still prefer the Triang one. Too bad the Triang track is so chunky with less realistic sleepers!

 

Cheers,

 

Rob

[BR60103]

Rob:

I tried using the converter tracks to put a bit of old Tri-ang track across my bridge. I found that the grade on the converters (R426 or something) was impossible for longer stock, especially with Kadees, and a bit steep for some locos.

The best I can say about the series 3 uncouplers is that you can put the ramp down, although that was supposed to be for compatibility with the previous couplers without tension-lock. And the sleeper spacing was more realistic.

Did Super 4 track have installed ramps? Mine are all clip fit.

[GreenDiesel]

Rob:

I tried using the converter tracks to put a bit of old Tri-ang track across my bridge. I found that the grade on the converters (R426 or something) was impossible for longer stock, especially with Kadees, and a bit steep for some locos.

The best I can say about the series 3 uncouplers is that you can put the ramp down, although that was supposed to be for compatibility with the previous couplers without tension-lock. And the sleeper spacing was more realistic.

Did Super 4 track have installed ramps? Mine are all clip fit.

 

Thanks, David. Yes, the converters do seem a little finicky & I'm having some derailments. Not sure if system 4 had uncouplers.

 

Have you had any luck with Peco or Hornby uncouplers? I'm thinking of going back to those as per the above suggestion. I have a Hornby uncoupler but it doesn't fit between my sections of Atlas & Peco track (the sleeper spacing is different).

 

Thx, Rob

[BR60103]

Rob: I have a couple of Peco clip-ins and I may have a Hornby one. I use them at platform ends. I don't have much goods shunting.

I think the Hornby ones clip to Hornby track (But there may be problems with the Series 3 and Super 4) but there may be more latitude with flex-track as you can adjust sleper spacing.

[RedgateModels]

Rob, I've got some old triang uncoupling sections somewhere if you need any more

[GreenDiesel]

Rob: I have a couple of Peco clip-ins and I may have a Hornby one. I use them at platform ends. I don't have much goods shunting.

I think the Hornby ones clip to Hornby track (But there may be problems with the Series 3 and Super 4) but there may be more latitude with flex-track as you can adjust sleper spacing.

 

Thanks, David. So, when the Peco ones are inserted into the track, do trains uncouple every time the coupler pass over them or only when you stop the couplers over them? I'm hoping it's the latter because there are times when you obviously don't want them to uncouple.

 

Sorry for asking such a basic question!

 

Thanks,

Rob

[gresley]

Thanks, David. So, when the Peco ones are inserted into the track, do trains uncouple every time the coupler pass over them or only when you stop the couplers over them? I'm hoping it's the latter because there are times when you obviously don't want them to uncouple.

 

Sorry for asking such a basic question!

 

Thanks,

Rob

 

 

Hello Rob,

 

I have some Peco ramps installed on my layout. They only work if the vehicles to be uncoupled are stopped over them. As long as the train is moving, the ramp is pressed down by the couplings pasasing over and only raises when the tension of the couplings is released. Also, you don't need any levers, magnets, etc. An alternative is to make your own using strrips of clear plastic. I find that the plastic strips used in the packaging of shirts (round the collars) is perfect for this, and doesn't cost anything.

 

gresley

[GreenDiesel]

Hello Rob,

 

I have some Peco ramps installed on my layout. They only work if the vehicles to be uncoupled are stopped over them. As long as the train is moving, the ramp is pressed down by the couplings pasasing over and only raises when the tension of the couplings is released. Also, you don't need any levers, magnets, etc. An alternative is to make your own using strrips of clear plastic. I find that the plastic strips used in the packaging of shirts (round the collars) is perfect for this, and doesn't cost anything.

 

gresley

 

 

Thanks, gresley. So the Peco ramps may be the way to go -- or I'll see if I can find some plastic strips...

 

Rob

[GreenDiesel]

Hello Rob,

I have some Peco ramps installed on my layout. They only work if the vehicles to be uncoupled are stopped over them. As long as the train is moving, the ramp is pressed down by the couplings pasasing over and only raises when the tension of the couplings is released. Also, you don't need any levers, magnets, etc. An alternative is to make your own using strrips of clear plastic. I find that the plastic strips used in the packaging of shirts (round the collars) is perfect for this, and doesn't cost anything.

gresley

 

 

I'm embarrassed that I'm only discovering all of this just now! I bought 2 Hornby uncouplers a few years ago but gave up on them because they would not clip into my Atlas track & therefore did not work well. So I'm finally realizing that Hornby uncouplers clip into Hornby track and that Peco uncouplers clip into Peco track, and that they won't work with other kinds of track.

 

My layout uses a mixture of modern Peco code 100 track as well as Hornby Dublo and even Atlas track in the sidings. So my plan now is use Peco flextrack in the sidings and clip some Peco uncoupling ramps into those. Sometimes it takes me years to realize basic things!

 

Rob

[BR60103]

Rob: The couplings are called tension-locks. Like the Kadees, they are supposed to stay together when pulled through the ramp. Any little hesitation when they're over the ramp and the train breaks in two.

If you have any really old TriAng (pre 1959, I think) the couplings don't have the lip on the big loop and there's no extra little hook on the hook, so they'll just lift straight up and will always uncouple over any of the fixed ramps.

I think there are clip-in ramps for both TriAng/Hornby 4 and 6 track but I don't know if they're different.

[GreenDiesel]

Rob: The couplings are called tension-locks. Like the Kadees, they are supposed to stay together when pulled through the ramp. Any little hesitation when they're over the ramp and the train breaks in two.

If you have any really old TriAng (pre 1959, I think) the couplings don't have the lip on the big loop and there's no extra little hook on the hook, so they'll just lift straight up and will always uncouple over any of the fixed ramps.

I think there are clip-in ramps for both TriAng/Hornby 4 and 6 track but I don't know if they're different.

 

David,

 

I'm purchasing two Peco uncoupling ramps and will insert those into Peco track and it looks as if this method will work fine. Thanks for clarifying above (still can't believe I haven't figured this out till now).

 

I've seen a certain type of very old Triang uncouplers. These don't have the complete loop on them &, frankly, they look a little weird. They don't even look compatible with the later Triang coupler as well as today's coupler. I don't have any of these, although the couplers on my Triangs are larger & thicker than the modern slimline couplers.

 

Thanks,

Rob

[D9020 Nimbus]

The main problem with the sprung ramps is that (certainly in the case of Hornby ramps) some Bachmann locos ground on them. In my experience this includes the 04 (diesel) and Ivatt 2-6-2T; there may be others. More recent models seem OK, but YMMV. I've often wondered whether the type of ramps offered by Fleischmann (and other European makers) would work with tension-lock couplings.

[GoingUnderground]

All UK tension lock couplings are the direct descendants of the 1959 Triang Mk3 Tension Lock coupling, and I'm sure you all know how they work, and have cursed them at times.

 

They were introduced to end the problem with the old Mk2 couplings of tending to uncouple if the track was slightly uneven. I haven't tried it, but the Mk2s should couple to the Mk3s as Triang never sold a convertor wagon and the design is similar except that the Tension Lock looks better, believe it or not, and of course includes the locking mechanism. The Mk2s really do like the "Harpoon & Volvo Bumpers" nickname applied by some to the Tension Locks.

 

Triang used operating levers on their Standard and Series 3 track, but in the interests of economy did away with the operating lever and hence the need for a different track piece when they moved to the clip in type for the Super 4 type. The design is such that the couplings stay locked together and depress the ramp if a train is being pulled over the spring loaded uncoupling ramp. So I used to leave my Series 3 ramps up all the time as like the Super 4 ones they too were spring loaded, the lever just locked them in the down position as the internal spring raises them up.

 

The later System 6 track also used the clip in type, but it would heve been lower as the rail profice changed to something much closer to todays Code 100.

 

The great benefit of Tension Locks over the Peco Simplex type used by Hornby Dublo and Trix was that Tension Locks very rarely, if ever, came undone whilst the train was in motion, unlike the Simplex and Triang Mk 2 types where the lack of the vertical locking mechanism made 'slipped' carriages and wagons an all too common ocurrence if the track was even slightly up and down, an important issue for many train set owners where the first place they were used was on the living room floor, not a nice flat solid baseboard.

 

The easiest, and cheapest, way to uncouple all tension locks anywhere is to make a 'shunters pole' by unbending a paperclip so that it forms a letter L. When you want to uncouple, move the two items closer together so that the locks release, slide the shunters pole under the arms, lift, move the two items slightly apart and lower or remove the shunters pole and hey-presto easily uncoupling.

 

 

[Il Grifone]

The Mark I is the original Rovex coupling which consists of a loop at one end of the vehicle* and a hook at the other, which operates downwards ie the opposite of the later versions. Fine until you turn the stock around. The track suffered from this same 'one way round' fault too.

 

The Mark II has a horizontal bar with a vertical hook. This uncouples on a raised ramp, which needs to be lowered if uncoupling isnot required.

 

The Mark III is the common 'tension lock' which only needs a sprung ramp. This first appeared on the TT range in 1957 and the 00 range in 1959.

 

The main snag with the latter two is the near impossibility of manually uncoupling a vehicle, without a paddle or magnetic tool of some kind. This can result in whole trains heading for the floor. (The Peco/HD/Trix type is superior on this count, but does require accurate adjustment to avoid spurious uncoupling).

 

The Mark II & III should couple together without problems, but require a mechanical lift/lower ramp to remain so. Standard and Series 3 track has lifting ramps, Later track has sprung ramps.

 

* Vehicle here is the ultra short LMS coach, available as 1st and 3rd, though otherwise identical. These bear the nickname 'bananas' as they all have warped into graceful curves. This also applies to the Tri-ang versions, apart from the very last production in polystyrene.

[GreenDiesel]

All UK tension lock couplings are the direct descendants of the 1959 Triang Mk3 Tension Lock coupling, and I'm sure you all know how they work, and have cursed them at times.

 

They were introduced to end the problem with the old Mk2 couplings of tending to uncouple if the track was slightly uneven. I haven't tried it, but the Mk2s should couple to the Mk3s as Triang never sold a convertor wagon and the design is similar except that the Tension Lock looks better, believe it or not, and of course includes the locking mechanism. The Mk2s really do like the "Harpoon & Volvo Bumpers" nickname applied by some to the Tension Locks.

 

Triang used operating levers on their Standard and Series 3 track, but in the interests of economy did away with the operating lever and hence the need for a different track piece when they moved to the clip in type for the Super 4 type. The design is such that the couplings stay locked together and depress the ramp if a train is being pulled over the spring loaded uncoupling ramp. So I used to leave my Series 3 ramps up all the time as like the Super 4 ones they too were spring loaded, the lever just locked them in the down position as the internal spring raises them up.

 

The later System 6 track also used the clip in type, but it would heve been lower as the rail profice changed to something much closer to todays Code 100.

 

The great benefit of Tension Locks over the Peco Simplex type used by Hornby Dublo and Trix was that Tension Locks very rarely, if ever, came undone whilst the train was in motion, unlike the Simplex and Triang Mk 2 types where the lack of the vertical locking mechanism made 'slipped' carriages and wagons an all too common ocurrence if the track was even slightly up and down, an important issue for many train set owners where the first place they were used was on the living room floor, not a nice flat solid baseboard.

 

The easiest, and cheapest, way to uncouple all tension locks anywhere is to make a 'shunters pole' by unbending a paperclip so that it forms a letter L. When you want to uncouple, move the two items closer together so that the locks release, slide the shunters pole under the arms, lift, move the two items slightly apart and lower or remove the shunters pole and hey-presto easily uncoupling.

 

Thanks, Keith -- I appreciate this background and advice. I've also recently made an uncoupling paddle out of some plastic (it's a little fiddley but works fairly well), but will also try using a paper clip. Cheers, Rob

[frobisher]

Just to muddy the waters, there's this unit that Hornby are producing which requires one of these to operate remotely but this might be exactly what you're looking for (when these hit the shops). This is presumably being produced to replace the various uncoupling ramps used in the HO ranges that Hornby have absorbed now that they're using the Hornby track across all of them.

[GreenDiesel]

Just to muddy the waters, there's this unit that Hornby are producing which requires one of these to operate remotely but this might be exactly what you're looking for (when these hit the shops). This is presumably being produced to replace the various uncoupling ramps used in the HO ranges that Hornby have absorbed now that they're using the Hornby track across all of them.

 

 

Hmm, that does look good! especially if you can control them remotely, maybe similar to how switch motors work? Oh well, I might consider these for the future. Rob

[BR60103]

One claim that TriAng Hornby made was that all their equipment would work together. This meant that couplings had to be compatible with the original Rovex unidirectionals. (It also meant that rolling stock had to go around the original 13" curves and that locomotives had to negotiate the sharp climb onto the trestle sets.)

I started with TriAng too late to have any of the Mk 2 couplings.

[28XX]

A couple of related points. Triang used to supply a manual uncoupler with their shunters wagon. This was a flat square of plastic with a angled handle, a bit like a shovel in shape. You were supposed to slip the square under the couplings and lift them up, it needed a steady hand.

 

Exhibition layouts I remember from the '60s / '70s used thin strips of clear plastic instead of the Triang ramp which were less conspicuous and worked fairly well.

[gresley]

The main problem with the sprung ramps is that (certainly in the case of Hornby ramps) some Bachmann locos ground on them. In my experience this includes the 04 (diesel) and Ivatt 2-6-2T; there may be others. More recent models seem OK, but YMMV. I've often wondered whether the type of ramps offered by Fleischmann (and other European makers) would work with tension-lock couplings.

 

Unfortunately, the Fleischmann uncoupler ramp is an integrated part of a straight section of Fleischmann track. Therefore, you would have to use a complete unit, (electrically or hand operated. It looks to me as though the new Hornby unit is also formewd to fit into Hornby track. AFAIK, the only uncoupling ramp which is not specifically designed to fit one make of track is the Peco unit. Because the sleepers of flexible track can be moved slightly, the Peco units can be installed easily, at any place on a section of straight, plain track. The only criteria being that the track should not be fitted with built-in ballast, (as per Fleischmann, Roco, etc).

 

gresley

[GreenDiesel]

Well, I have now bought & installed two Peco uncoupling ramps. Overall, they're working well except with the following occasionally happening:

 

• there are 1-2 wagons that usually uncouple as they pass over them, even when locked under tension.

• you have to watch that you don't fill up your sidings with too many wagons. For example, if your siding or spur only has space for 5 wagons beyond the uncoupler (and you actually park 5 wagons there), there won't be any room for movement and the wagons will almost always uncouple. The uncouplers of the first car are alway over the ramp.

 

These can be solved... with the first problem, I might experiment by removing the wagons that seem to be causing the problem or see if I can adjust their couplers or the height of the couplers. With the second, I just have to be sure not to leave any more than than 4 wagons beyond the uncoupler so that there is always enough maneuvering room to pick up the wagons and haul them out with their couplers locked via the tension.

 

Hope this makes sense!

 

Rob

[gresley]

Well, I have now bought & installed two Peco uncoupling ramps. Overall, they're working well except with the following occasionally happening:

 

• there are 1-2 wagons that usually uncouple as they pass over them, even when locked under tension.

• you have to watch that you don't fill up your sidings with too many wagons. For example, if your siding or spur only has space for 5 wagons beyond the uncoupler (and you actually park 5 wagons there), there won't be any room for movement and the wagons will almost always uncouple. The uncouplers of the first car are alway over the ramp.

 

These can be solved... with the first problem, I might experiment by removing the wagons that seem to be causing the problem or see if I can adjust their couplers or the height of the couplers. With the second, I just have to be sure not to leave any more than than 4 wagons beyond the uncoupler so that there is always enough maneuvering room to pick up the wagons and haul them out with their couplers locked via the tension.

 

Hope this makes sense!

 

Rob

Rob,

 

sound OK. Rather fascinating. Please keep us informed of further developments as well as any further problems.

 

gr5esley

[GreenDiesel]

Rob,

 

sound OK. Rather fascinating. Please keep us informed of further developments as well as any further problems.

 

gr5esley

 

Thanks! Do you have any suggestions as to why some couplers are more prone to uncouple than others (when I don't want them to)? Some of the "problem" ones might actually be Dapol wagons, IIRC, while the Bachmann and Hornby wagons work better. I'll try to compare the Dapol style couplers carefully with the H&B ones tonight.

 

Rob