Hornby A4 Dominion of Canada & Union of South Africa

[Theakerr]

The latest A4's from Hornby come with a plug socket for a decoder right behind the tender pin and as a consequence it appears that I cannot shorten the loco to tender distance as I did with last years models. However, I note that the draw bar has three holes. The outer one fits the tender pin as received whilst the other two get progressively smaller as one moves towards the loco body and the tender pin will not fit through either. It would seem to me that if I drilled out the middle hole this would bring the tender about 4 mm closer to the loco, which is what I was able to reduce the gap by on last years models. I even wondered if this was the intent of these holes. Has anybody any experience or thoughts on this.

Next question, there is only one "Springbok" plate with my Union of south Africa, should there be two? A quick Google did show a picture with the plate on the left side only looking fwds.

Last question, I see there are electrical pickups on the tender wheels. I haven't taken the tender top of yet and probably will not depending on the feedback, but does anyone know if the tender pickups are active if a decoder is not installed ?

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

There was only a single 'Springbok' plate on Union of South Africa.

 

Interesting that Hornby have at last revised the loco to tender linkage. I would be inclined to make a new drawbar with the holes spaced for the closest coupling your curves permit, or scale seperation if the layout curves are sufficient to accomodate this.

[Theakerr]

Answers to my own questions for the info of anyone who might find it relevant:

Enlarged the 2nd hole to take the tender pin. This brings the tender about 5mm closer to the loco. Will go round my 36" diameter curves without binding. Was a bit of an act of faith because you have to remove the back end of the draw-bar that has the old hole since the overhang interferes with the plug from the loco.

The tender pickups are active without the decoder and in fact the tender to loco plug must be in for the loco to run

springbok plate location confirmed by 34th letter (and a member of BRMNA) Thanks

[Ian_R]

I would be interested to know how you moved the tender drawbar pin on the earlier Hornby models.

I would like to shorten the loco to tender distance on my Hornby models such as A3, A4, Black 5 and 8F. If electrical pickup is to be maintained moving the tender pin would seem to be the easiest way to go.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

There's no direct mention of relocating the tender pin in this thread, that I can see. It is usually possible to shorten the supplied drawbar by relocating the screw hole by which it attaches to the loco; that is certainly possible on the previous version of the A3/A4 (same chassis) which used wipers to make the electrical connection to the tender, and also on the 8F. (No experience with the Black 5.) That has the benefit of being a much quicker and simpler process than relocating the tender pin too, just one hole to drill, and then cut off the excess with the old screw hole at the loco end of the drawbar. ( To determine the new hole position, I made up a temporary drawbar in sheet metal to experiment with the distance.)

 

The one Hornby loco on which I have resited the tender pin was the 9F, where the forward part of the tender frames are too long; cutting out the front section with the pin and splicing the frames in behind the steps was a moderately involved process. That's how I know it is more work than simply drilling a hole in the drawbar!

[Theakerr]

Re article on closing the gap, see the last post here? If you have any problems I will post it again.

www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/10737-a4-pacific/page__p__94008__fromsearch__1#entry94008

[Ian_R]

Re article on closing the gap, see the last post here? If you have any problems I will post it again.

 

 

Thank you for an excellent article.