Advice needed to modify a Bachmann Class 25

[Liddy]

Hi All,

I have a Bachmann class 25 034, I want to make cosmetic changes to model a Western region (ideally South Wales) freight loco from the early 70's. It's a 25/1 so basically should right, I'm looking for pointers on details from those that know these things, like;

I think it has a Boiler port at the No.2 end (apologies for any bloopers, it's my lack of knowledge of the prototype that's causing me to query these things) a small round grille inboard of what I believe is the exhaust (rectangular grille)??

 

 

If I'm right, does this need a blanking plate or were freight locos built without ports at all and it needs removing completely? If it is a boiler port then the boiler water tank needs to be removed too, but which tank is which (Fuel .... Water) I've looked-up 25 034 on a Class 25 website and this one was based at Millerhill which I believe is in Scotland (could be wrong) so I guess it also needs re-numbering and I'm not keen on the name either so I believe I can take the transfers off with meths on a cotton bud.

 

 

Can someone let me know the best supplier for new numbers (preferably already aligned and including the small black numbers for the ends) And, I want to put a headcode in the headcode boxes ... I tried to carefully remove the headcode displays by pushing them out from inside, but gave up when I thought I might damage the boxes with too much force, any suggestions please.

 

 

Lastly for now, i really like the look of the depth of layers on the bogie sideframes, where do I look to find details of pipework etc to detail them better.

I know that's asking a lot, but having searched the forum several times and not found the answers I thought those in-the-know might help me out.

Thanks

[Jamie]

A starter for ten, then would be Brian Daniels' fotopic site: http://briandaniels.fotopic.net/

where you can find both macro detail plus more general shots. The latter will allow you to find locos in your chosen area, and you can compare them to your model - placement of numbers, body style, tank presence etc. Once you've got that sorted out, maybe down to 2-3 candidates you can go to the detail pages and figure out what's appropriate for your loco.

 

You can also maybe dig through this site: http://www.derbysulzers.com/ for further info on the particular engines you're interested in.

 

I've paid only passing interest in the classes 24-25 myself, but assuming you've no books to hand, I'd try those sites first.

[Pennine MC]

I think it has a Boiler port at the No.2 end (apologies for any bloopers, it's my lack of knowledge of the prototype that's causing me to query these things) a small round grille inboard of what I believe is the exhaust (rectangular grille)??

The small round grille is a representation of the original exhaust port. These started to be replaced from as early as around 1963/64 but it was a long job and some survived into the 70s. The new arrangement was a rectangular port in the blank area of the large central panel, but there were variations in this - as J says, have a look at derbysulzers.

25034 may have been a Scottish loco at some point (although the depot in Edinburgh is Haymarket - Millerhill is/was a marshalling yard with a small stabling point), but it doesnt follow it always was. D5179 - 82 were built without boilers but no other grille-sided 25s were (although some lost them much later on). This small batch were built for NER freight use but did transfer to S Wales in the early 70s - check out the individual loco histories on derbysulzers. Conversely, all but five of the later flush-sided locos were built NB.

[Pixie]

Afternoon Liddy,

 

As Ian mentioned, your best bet for a South Wales machine in the early 70's in D5179-82. These were the first to the area along with a handful of 25/3s. I've got a good few photos of these and I'll dig them out when I get back from Cornwall tomorrow evening.

 

Using your donor you'd need to lose the roof boiler detail and underside tank as well as updating the exhaust grille, as mentioned above. It's not too clear from your photos but you may also need to add the connecting doors on the front - either a scribing job or you could use a Hornby bodyshell (which is generally considered to be a more accurate shape) on the Bachmann chassis. Livery wise the yellow warning panels would need to be extended around the sides a little more. No need to try and hunt down the little black numbers on the front if doing any of the 4 machines mentioned above as they didn't have them in pre-TOPS days. I quite like Fox transfers for the white numbers and they do have some combinations but I don't know if they've got all 4 digits need on the sheet. Might be worth dropping Precision Labels an email - they might be able to offer made up numbers.

 

As for removing the headcode glasses - I think brute force is the only option. Try using the moisened end of a matchstick to prod it out. It may be easier to replace them anyway as I seem to recall that the white is printed under the black on the rear of the pane. Shouldn't be too tricky with a suitable bit of plastic.

 

Hope this helps a bit - I'll be back with more tomorrow!

 

All the best,

 

Pix

[37114]

I guess this is the version with lights so maybe different to my older versions but the Headcode boxes are solid behind so brute force won't budge them, prizing them out from the front is the option, I used a sharp scalpel blade on the one I changed, One end came out ok, the other broke so replaced it.

 

Irrespective of the body mods, I would definitely recommend opening out the chassis as Jim S W and others have done, it isn't that difficult and the end result is definitely worth the effort

[Platform 6]

Hi - hope you don't mind me popping this tip into the mix. It's in not your question but is my pet hate   

 

Look at the Bachmann MU connection on the detailing sprue - it's a mirror image of how it should be. The square connector should be on the right or outside edge of the buffer beam.

 

Easily cured by cutting the cable away and swapping the connector and the pipe union around.

 

Good luck with the mods   

 

Andy