ESU Switch Pilot question

[blue star control]

I've been looking at getting an ESU SwitchPilot for my layout, I'm currently using Cobalt Stall motors, now how the heck would I go about wiring whats effectivly a two wire motor block to the ESU unit?

 

Currently running under NCE Powercab for control too

[adc]

I've been looking at getting an ESU SwitchPilot for my layout, I'm currently using Cobalt Stall motors, now how the heck would I go about wiring whats effectivly a two wire motor block to the ESU unit?

 

Currently running under NCE Powercab for control too

 

I believe this is covered in Section 6.7.3 and in figure 6 of the manual, downloadable from either ESU or South West Digital websites.

 

It says to use a SwitchPilot Extension in conjunction with a SwitchPilot to control motor drives. Essentially you wire it up so that the relays on the SwitchPilot Extension do the current switching that you would otherwise use a switch for. The SwitchPilot cannot do this itself since it only turns power to outputs on an off, whereas to control a motor you need to reverse the polarity.

 

Alan

[blue star control]

Thanks for the clarification there Alan, I've decided to switch to the NCE Switch-8 unit...going to be cheaper and easier to wire by the looks of things.

 

Buying two bits of kit to do one job, when the switch 8 does it all in one show, I think my mind is made

[two tone green]

If your read the instructions for the Cobalt point motor online then you will see that all you may need to go with the Switch Pilot is two 180 ohm resistors. You can use the same set up as the Lenz LS100 point module.

 

http://www.dccconcepts.com/PDF_Downloads/cobalt_manual.pdf

 

I've just bought the 12 pack from Bromsgrove Models along with the mounting template and so far it all looks good. With the variable duration pulse from the Switch Pilot set in 65ms steps it should be able to set the pulse duration to meet the requirements of the motor and the point you are using them on. Don't forget as well that the hole size for the actuating wire increases or decreases depending on board thickness.

 

The template seems a good idea and just about makes installation fool proof. Will work with me well.

 

The output from the Switch Pilot is DC so ideal for the Cobalt but I will use a DC input to power the Switch Pilot rather than AC which is more common. Using DC input gives a better output so the Cobalt should run nicely.

 

Within the Switch Pilot settings. CV's, you can set everything up and if like me you have used the Switch Pilot before for Peco motors, don't forget to deselect the CV for use with Peco point motors. I have found the Lok Programmer invaluable for setting things up with loco decoders and accessory decoders.

 

I'm in the process of going over to all ESU and got my ECoS last weekend at Warley. Don't forget that the Switch Pilot can be tweaked in situ with the ECoS and has Railcom built in for position feedback etc which by using the switch contacts built into the Cobalt motor can do the switching for Railcom and polarity for the frogs on the point.

 

Not installed any yet as I'm getting all my goodies in place before getting going after Christmas.

[blue star control]

If your read the instructions for the Cobalt point motor online then you will see that all you may need to go with the Switch Pilot is two 180 ohm resistors. You can use the same set up as the Lenz LS100 point module.

 

http://www.dccconcep...balt_manual.pdf

 

I've just bought the 12 pack from Bromsgrove Models along with the mounting template and so far it all looks good. With the variable duration pulse from the Switch Pilot set in 65ms steps it should be able to set the pulse duration to meet the requirements of the motor and the point you are using them on. Don't forget as well that the hole size for the actuating wire increases or decreases depending on board thickness.

 

The template seems a good idea and just about makes installation fool proof. Will work with me well.

 

The output from the Switch Pilot is DC so ideal for the Cobalt but I will use a DC input to power the Switch Pilot rather than AC which is more common. Using DC input gives a better output so the Cobalt should run nicely.

 

 

Thanks for the info TwoTone, I started reading up on the cobalts manual just before I started making the purchases, even after all this cold weather (layout's stored in the shed they're still performing perfectly....tested twice a day to allow for flux in temperatures throughout, atleast until I can bring the wee beastie indoors.

I'm sticking with the NCE Switch8 unit for two reasons:

1: I'm using the powercab and it's really easy for me to use

2: I'd rather keep everything within the same manufacturer, no offence to other makes of control systems but I'm sure that Lenz people like to keep to Lenz, Digitrax etc etc. I'm aware that the NMRA standards define what should be, but I'd rather not take the risk and have companies telling me it's the other company etc.

 

Still it's going to be rather nice when it's all finished

[two tone green]

There is a lot to be said for sticking with a maker for all your requirments. Solves a lot of problems.

 

Good luck with your efforts.