Simon_R Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Any tips for painting raised detail on bodies and glazing without the paint sreading over the surrounding area? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corax67 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 An expensive but reliable method is to purchase a lining pen, such as the Bob Moore pen [http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/misc.asp]. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_R Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 I was more thinking of a way to pick out details such as door handles or fine window rails that are raised moulded in the model rather trhan lining. Lining pens would be ok for the windows but i dont see how they would help on of handles etc? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumblestripe Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 There is a variant technique on "dry-brushing" that is useful for raised details. You need a fine pointed brush and you load it lightly with paint and wipe to remove any excess, then apply the paint with light strokes to the raised area, you should get a more concentrated colour than by dry-brushing with none of the collateral paint deposits. This should pick out the edges of the detail, then fill in with a loaded brush if necessary. I call it "damp-brushing". Give it a go! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corax67 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 but i dont see how they would help on of handles etc? If you fit the fine head assembly you can achieve a line width of 0.02m (8 thou in old money) - load the pen with silver paint and then it acts as an unltra fine brush tip so you simply draw the paint over the top of the raised moulding details to pick them out. It works for handles, hinges, rivets and even pipework detail - you can get down to 2mm scale detail as well if your hand is steady enough. They are a very versatile tool and with practice you would be surprised just what jobs they can be used for, not just lining. Cheap alternative is a good quality OOOO fine point brush and a white glazed bathroom/kitchen tile - use a pin to transfer a droplet of paint from the tin or bottle onto the tile and then spread it out slightly to break the surface tension. Dip the very tip of the brush, first half mil or so, into this paint and roll the brush as you draw it out. This will load the barest amount of paint onto the brush allowing you maximum control over paint spread on the model surface. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platform 6 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I'm having a similar problem in repainting a Bachmann Class 108 from NSE to BR Blue livery. The raised glazing bars/window openings are painted NSE blue and I need to paint them silver/aluminium/metal etc. Humbrol paints of these colours are not very viscous and easily run onto the glazing. So I suppose I'm asking the opposite of the perennial question here. This time it's - 'How do I thicken my paint?' Any ideas? Talc? (Hope I'm not hijacking your thread Simon) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corax67 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Rather than Humbrol for silver/enamel/metal you could always have a look at the Games Workshop range (Gunmetal / Mithril Silver) which take very well to plastics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platform 6 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Thanks for those two tips - something to work on. I probably also need a tad more patience I reckon, too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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