gwr5786 Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I have just had the Hornby GWR 2-8-0 3803 bought for me as a present, the only problem is that the safety valve bonnet is painted green when in real life 3803 has a brass bonnet. Can anyone recommend a good paint to make it look like brass? Humbrol do some nice Metalcote paints which work very well but don't do brass. Any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Might help http://forum.model-s...?g=posts&t=1388 http://www.hobbylinc...m/arx/arx54.htm http://www.maritime-...dual-paint.html http://www.dakkadakk...atibility_Chart DakkaDakka - Articles - Paint Range Compatibility ChartColour, Citadel, Vallejo Game Color, Vallejo Model Color .... Brazen Brass *, Brassy Brass (058), Brass (801), Tarnished Brass ** (9198), Brass (131) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 When you say "...in real life...", I take it you really mean "as preserved"? Painted bonnets are correct for most engines in the later years of the GWR and into the post-nationalisation era. The bonnet was still brass under the paint. As shortliner says, there are several sources of 'brass' paint but, frankly, they don't look much like brass. My Hornby 28XX came with a 'brass' painted bonnet (correct for this particular model), but it does look like plastic covered in 'brass' paint. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Look for an artists shop or picture framer that sells Classic Gold. It dries fast so you have to work fast, but when new it looks pretty damn good .Its used for picture frames. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 It is possible to use real gilding metal, like gold leaf, but in a brass colour, it is not as thin as gold, but is totally all right for the safety valve cover. The white metal or plastic is painted with one coat of basic primer, and the foil is rubbed on, overlaid edges do not show, it is so thin. The metal is burnished with a smooth wooden stick into a smooth finish and then varnished to protect the finish There are several makes of the gilding metal foil, a good art shop will have them. Do not attempt to use direct to plastic, it must have a coat of primer to get the grip. The packs are about £4.00 and would provide enough to practice with on some scrap, and the effect is very good once the technique is mastered. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 For brass there is no substitute for the real thing, why not replace with Alan Gibson part number 4M713, shouldn't cost much more than a fiver. But as buffalo says, is it bare brass ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwr5786 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 I'm modelling 3803 as preserved at the South Devon Railway (I'm making a model of the preserved railway). I agree that an Alan Gibson cast brass safety valve would look best, but I would then have to paint the top feeds to match the rest of the loco - no I don't want to re-paint the whole loco! I think I may have a go at the brass leaf as bertiedog suggests. If that doesn't work I will probably go for an Alan Gibson 'real brass' one and see how I get on matching the paint on the top feeds. Thanks for all your advice (thanks shortliner for the links) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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