Insulfrog diamond crossing (Again)

[GreenDiesel001]

Hi.

 

Users of these blasted crossings will be well aware of their terrible running preformance caused by the plastic frogs and the plastic rail inserts.

 

I have a thought which I wonder if forum members would comment on please or just tell me what sort of idiot I am?

 

The crossing comprises 2 outside rails which are split by a plastic insulator about 12mm long.

 

These pieces of plastic are immediately opposite each other and a nice 0-6-0 distance from the plastic frog.

 

Now if I were to fabricate a replacement for this piece of plastic from n/s rail soldered to the outside rails and then create an insulation gap further along each rail, not opposite each other obviously, do you think that would improve the performance of the crossings please?

 

I hope you can understand my description

 

Regards,

 

Jeff Rippon

[trisonic]

It may well be easier to make your own crossing out of rail........another skill set to have but may be worth your while acquiring it.

 

Best, Pete.

[coachmann]

Funnily enough the Insulfrog Single Slip doesnt have these outer rail plastic insulators. So I use a single slip instead of a diamond. Even so, some care is still needed pinning the sleepers down at strategic points to ensure a 16' 6" wheelbase of the Hornby Fowler 2-6-4T doesn't stall.

[Suzie]

You might like to wire it as a live frog and paint the plastic bits with conductive paint, probably easier than replacing the rails. For DC wiring you will probably need insulated joiners on all of the rails (should be a good place for the insulated breaks)

 

For DCC there is no need for the insulated gap in the outside rails - they are all at the same potential, but for DC the insulated gap has to be where it is to separate the two track feeds unless you are using a 4-pole switch to choose the direction through the crossing.

 

Live frog (Electrofrog) crossings are available in 00 code 75, but I don't know about the other ranges.